I just bought a used stealth ram off another member minus the fuel rails. I was wondering if there were any good alternatives to the Holley kit with afpr currently priced at $260 on summit. I was told Hawk's had a set but I can't seem to find them. Thanks. Also I did search and couldn't come up with anything. If I missed it somewhere apologies in advance.

 

I recall some threads about people running professional products rails. IIRC they aren't a direct bolt on like the holley rails, but work with minimal modification.

 

All links to those rails are dead. Website doesn't have them. So I suppose they have gone the way of the dodo.

 

Looking at pro comp part# pc2882. A tech is supposed to call me back about fitment.

 

The latest PP catalog only shows the rails available as a kit with the reg
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pfs-10626

 

Thanks for the link but with it only being $20 cheaper I'd probably just go with the Holley setup. The Pro Comp tech never called me back but this what I'm looking at. http://store.procompelectronics.com/...-rail-kit.aspx

I can get them $15 cheaper on another site and with a good afpr total cost would be around $170.

 

Even cheaper $55

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SMALL-BLOCK-...-/170803053933

 

Yeah that's the site I was talking about. Didn't want to post the link since that's a no no here. I still need to get some info on them. If all I have to do is fab some mounting brackets I'd be happy to buy them.

 

I'm using the holley rails on a pro-products intake, and the bolt and injector spacing is the same.

I don't see why the pro-products (or procomp, same thing) rails wouldn't fit a holley.

The allen screws (6mm if I recall) will be too long however, so you'll want to pick up 4 shorter ones at a hardware store.


-- Joe

 

Thanks. You might be able to get a job in their tech department since they know absolutely nothing about their products.

 

Edelbrock victor rails will fit for 80 bucks but you'd need external regulator which will run 80-150 depending plus fittings so in the end its not much of an alternative cost wise.

Some are having issues with holley Adj regulators, so a popular upgrade is buick grand national reg by kirban which is billet aluminum and fits the rails fine. 110 bucks or so last i heard. Could buy holley kit with non adjustable reg and upgrade to kirban

 

The advantage I see with the pro comps is that they come with some of the fittings and lines needed. I'm getting a parts list together for the rest based off a sticky I have book marked. If Ican keep the total cost between $150 and $200 i'll go this route. If not I'll just go with the Holley setup just to keep it simple.

 

Pro Comp? It depends on who you talk to.

You have to also understand, they are selling 500k of product a month to distributors who don't ask questions, so when someone calls them about an $80 part they don't really put much effort into it. They expect their retailers to answer the tech questions.

I had a holley intake, and sold it but kept the rails for the pro (mine is labeled procomp, but the hurricane is the same casting). They fit fine. I had to make my own cross overs since Holley runs a hardline, but it took 10 minutes with some -6 AN hose.

-- Joe

 

I have a question. Does the afpr have to be mounted on the rail or can it be moved to the firewall? I know space is tight and was wondering why this isn't being done. Will the lines handle the pressure?

 

Anywhere. On LSx cars it's in the tank..


-- Joe

 

Think that's what i'll be doing then. Easy access to the regulator and gauge makes sense to me.

 

Yep. I'm running the stock holley unit because it was there, but had I used other rails I'd run the regulator right off the hard line near the steering box.

I re-ran my feed line with 3/8" hard line to come up under the column, behind the booster and end where the FP relay is. I then go -6 braided to the rail. I've seen cleaner, and I've seen worse. Works for me.

-- Joe

 

Not a bad idea. Mounted on the inner fender. Maybe mount it a little higher to get it away from the headers in case of a leak and route the lines around the firewall like you were saying.

 

Per NHRA rules you can not mount a fuel pressure regulator on the firewall.

 

Here was mine, I ran a y from the stock line into the back of the rails, then out of the rails into a regulator that then fed the return line.
I used Holley rails that were not made for a regulator.

 

Has to be on a bracket, 6" out.

-- Joe

 

Did they amend that? Its been a few years since I looked at a rulebook.

 

Since I don't drag race that won't be an issue.

 

There are reasons for the rules, they can apply to the street as well.


The reason for this one, is in the event of a clutch/flywheel failure, you don't have fuel lines right there to get cut open and cause a fire.

 

Just trying to run the amount of braided line possible. A: cost. B: clutter.

 

In that case, I would go with a grand national style reg mounted to the holley rails.

 

The reason I routed mine that was was for the best flow and least restriction.
My regulator is after the rails, but yeah, I had more hose then I'd like.

 

I don't have Holley rails. I'm going with pro comps. Trying to do the cheapest stealth ram build ever. I'm off to a good start with what I paid for it and I have a 58mm throttle body laying around that I paid $ 150 for. Throw in another $ 175-$200 for rails, afpr and misc and i'd be happy.

 

1:5 FUEL SYSTEMS
Location: All fuel tanks, lines, pumps, valves, etc. must be outside
of the driver’s compartment and within the confines of the frame
and/or steel body. Cool cans, fuel-distribution blocks, etc. must be
located at least 6 inches forward of the flywheel/bellhousing area on
rear-wheel-drive (RWD) vehicles, and on opposite side of
flywheel/housing area on front-wheel-drive (FWD) vehicles. Fuel
pressure gauge isolators, with steel braided line, may be mounted
on firewall.

This is also important:

Lines: All non-OEM fuel lines (including gauge and/or data
recorder lines) must be metallic, steel braided, or NHRA-accepted
“woven or woven-pushlock.” A maximum of 12 inches total (front to
rear) of non-metallic or non-steel braided hose is permitted for
connection purposes only; individual injector nozzle and motorcycle
fuel lines are excluded. Fuel lines (except steel braided lines) in the
flywheel/bellhousing area must be enclosed in a 16-inch length of
steel tubing, 1/8-inch-minimum wall thickness, securely mounted as
a protection against fuel-line rupture. Fuel lines may not be routed
in the driveshaft tunnel. It is mandatory that fuel lines passing
supercharger drive belts be steel braided, NHRA-accepted woven
or woven-pushlock, or be enclosed in protective steel tubing. A

So if you replace an OEM hard line, with another hard line, routed in the EXACT same place the OEM line was run, you fail tech...


-- Joe

 

Mine has been on the firewall for 4 years and never had a tech insp catch it and complain. 2 different tracks many different inspectors lol low mount behind intake next to dizzy makes it hard to find

Not condoning it but just saying.

 

Just re-reading the tech book, I realized my battery install won't pass. I didn't realize if you don't use the OEM tray and mount, you must use 3/8" steel welded rods.. wtf.

I used 5 1/6" j-hooks.

-- Joe

 

Ordered the fuel rails. I'm still undecided on a afpr at the moment.

 

I would think holley rails with the GN regulator would be the cleanest install, since you are concerned about that, and would not cost much more if any then using Pro Comp rails.

 

Yeah, and the "hook" has to be welded closed.

Not too mention on our cars, the battery Must be in a Sealed externally vented box too be legal.

 

They make big deals out of the battery. My 4th gen has factory plastic hold down clamp, sorta like a small j hook and they said i still need a tie down of some sort. Oh well. Some tracks check certain things some dont

 

My battery is under the hood, just not stock size. Running a PC680.

-- Joe

 

I'm getting ready to order my braided line and fittings but have a couple questions. Do you guys think 10ft of line will be enough? Also what did you use to cut the line to get a nice clean cut?


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depend on if you are just jumping to the hardline or we where you are putting the afpr but 10 feet is alot. To make nice clean cut I wrap electrical tape around the hose and use a abrasive wheel chop saw. You will need the saginaw 0-ring 14mm and 16mm female to -6 an for the hardline or cut the ends and use tube nuts.Fragola 491970 and 491971 or earls 9894DBJERL and EAR-9894DBHERL

 

I would like to mount it on the firewall. If I can mount it there I know 10ft will be plenty but if I can't go with that and end up going near the strut tower I think 10ft will be pushing it.

 

Also what are your thoughts on this?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/170644025649...84.m1438.l2649

 

Not much room on the firewall. Where are you thinking? Below the wiper motor? On the passenger side?

How are you plumbing the lines?

Do the rails you ordered have a crossover line?

 

Looks like a nice regulator but my two concerns would be why isn't it on there web site is it discontinued and can you buy replacement diaphragms for it.

 

1: I know space is at a premium on the firewall. Just going to look around and see if I can find a spot that works.

2: Not sure yet. Depends on where I mount the regulator.

3: Yes they do.

 

Hmm. I see where they have removed the image and the price from it on their site.

 

Know of any place cheaper than summit for the braided lines and fittings?

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Aeromoti...6d2d9a&vxp=mtr

make them a offer, A cheaper quality may be fine but my view is buy once and buy right replacement parts are nice and who knows on cheap ones if the diaphragms are known to blow out the side over time It would suck to skimp a little cash for a possible fire just my .

 

Look at the fragola brand they are usually cheaper than earls and aeroquip and very good quality.

 

Don't cheap out of fuel line.

Nothing worse than an engine fire.

 

Buying summit brand isn't what I would consider cheaping out.

 

depending on what you are referring to, summit has parts they sell with there name on it made as cheap as possible with low standards overseas like many manufactures. Your car to take the risks on the fuel system.