Auto Detailing and Appearance Share tips and tricks on how to make your Third Gen shine! Get opinions on products or how something tasteful looks on your Chevrolet Camaro or Pontiac Firebird.

How to use a Electric buffer properly

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Apr 30, 2006 | 04:31 PM
  #1  
outlawracer's Avatar
Thread Starter
Member
 
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 209
Likes: 0
From: euless, tx
Car: 82 camaro berlinetta/87 sport coupe
Engine: 87 LG4 305
Transmission: world 5speed
How to use a Electric buffer properly

So guys I just got my first car buffer and was wondering how you would wax/buff your Camaro. Just list the steps you use for beginning to finish. thanks
Reply
Old Apr 30, 2006 | 05:36 PM
  #2  
phoenix305's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 948
Likes: 0
From: Clearfield,Utah
Car: 1987 IROC, 1989 IROC
Engine: built 305, stock 305 tpi
Transmission: Corvette 700r4, t-5
Axle/Gears: 4.10 posi, 3.08 posi
I'm also interested to hear about this.
Reply
Old Apr 30, 2006 | 06:18 PM
  #3  
92MaroRS's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 953
Likes: 0
From: Waterloo, Iowa
Car: 1992 Camaro RS 25th Aniversarry Edition
Engine: 305
Transmission: TH-700-R4
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt with 3.23's and SLP Posi.
KEEP IT FLAT AND AWAY FROM SHARP EDGES!
Reply
Old Apr 30, 2006 | 09:59 PM
  #4  
ScottyRS's Avatar
Supreme Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,678
Likes: 0
From: Miami
Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: L03
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: Stock
What kind of buffer, an orbital? If it's an orbital then it's pretty simple and fool proof. I would recommend applying wax by hand as the buffer can absorb more wax than it puts on the car. Then use a terry cloth bonnet to remove the wax.

If you're using a polishing compound then wet the bonnet (you can use a terry cloth or wool bonnet for this) and the surface to be polished and spread the polish onto the bonnet. Rub the pad on the paint first and spread out the compound, then turn the buffer on. And I guess that's about it.

Never start the buffer unless it's against the car!
Reply
Old Apr 30, 2006 | 10:05 PM
  #5  
Mike-in-Orange's Avatar
Member
 
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 395
Likes: 0
From: Trabuco Canyon, CA
Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: 3.1L
Transmission: Auto
What kind of buffer did you get?

A. If it's a true high speed rotary (Makita, DeWalt, etc) you need to be beyond careful until you really know what you're doing or you'll burn through the paint in a matter of seconds.

B. If it's a dual action (Porter Cable 7424) then you need to get your technique down in order to achieve the results you want. About the only way to damage paint with one of these is to drop it on your car. Seriously.

C. If it's one of $35 auto parts store 10" buffers, the only thing those are good for is appling and removing wax. They are a time saver, that's it, and won't let you do any serious paint correction (swirl removal, etc).

If you answeed "A" I'm not the one to help you as I've never used one (they sorta scare me ) If you answered "B" then let's talk - I have one and use it all the time. I've been to a few Meguiar's Saturday Clinics and Wednesday Night Open Garage sessions. If you answered "C"......take it back for a refund 'cause they're basically worthless and your money is better spent on things like claybar, paint cleaner, microfiber towels, etc.
Reply
Old Apr 30, 2006 | 11:43 PM
  #6  
outlawracer's Avatar
Thread Starter
Member
 
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 209
Likes: 0
From: euless, tx
Car: 82 camaro berlinetta/87 sport coupe
Engine: 87 LG4 305
Transmission: world 5speed
well i hate to say this but its c. well guys i was really asking for detaild steps, 1 do this, 2 do this. and so on and so forth. thanks


Originally Posted by Mike-in-Orange
What kind of buffer did you get?

A. If it's a true high speed rotary (Makita, DeWalt, etc) you need to be beyond careful until you really know what you're doing or you'll burn through the paint in a matter of seconds.

B. If it's a dual action (Porter Cable 7424) then you need to get your technique down in order to achieve the results you want. About the only way to damage paint with one of these is to drop it on your car. Seriously.

C. If it's one of $35 auto parts store 10" buffers, the only thing those are good for is appling and removing wax. They are a time saver, that's it, and won't let you do any serious paint correction (swirl removal, etc).

If you answeed "A" I'm not the one to help you as I've never used one (they sorta scare me ) If you answered "B" then let's talk - I have one and use it all the time. I've been to a few Meguiar's Saturday Clinics and Wednesday Night Open Garage sessions. If you answered "C"......take it back for a refund 'cause they're basically worthless and your money is better spent on things like claybar, paint cleaner, microfiber towels, etc.
Reply
Old May 1, 2006 | 12:00 AM
  #7  
Mike-in-Orange's Avatar
Member
 
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 395
Likes: 0
From: Trabuco Canyon, CA
Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: 3.1L
Transmission: Auto
Originally Posted by outlawracer
well i hate to say this but its c. well guys i was really asking for detaild steps, 1 do this, 2 do this. and so on and so forth. thanks
I understand that you were looking for detailed steps, but those steps vary wildly depending on what sort of machine you have. The one you have does make it easy to apply and remove wax, so if that's all you're looking to do then here's the deal:

After you've washed and dried the car you want to use the softest foam pad (polishing pad) you can find for this machine. Apply a thin bead of wax in a circle on the face of the pad, about halfway in (or you can apply the wax in an "X" pattern on the pad). With the machine at a slow to medium speed setting (I'm not sure how many settings these things have, but you don't want it moving really fast at this point) start working the wax into the finish. You want to get a nice even, thin coat of wax laid down. Let the wax dry to a haze.

You should be able to find microfiber bonnets to slip over either a stiffer foam pad (cutting pad) or a wool pad for this machine. Get a couple and slip one on. Now with the machine at it's fastest speed, begin removing the hazed wax. This is the part that saves your arms!

Keep in mind, this machine just does not have the guts to let you remove swirls, etc. In order to do that you need heat. You can get so much heat out of a rotary that you can very easily, too easily, burn through paint on sharp body creases. With a random orbital you can't generate anywhere near the heat so you need different products, different technique, and much more time to correct defects. There are limits to what this machine can do for you, but it's a great machine! The polisher you bought is really only good for what I've outlined above. If that's all you wanted, then you chose correctly and didn't spend more money than you should have. If you want to remove swirls, sorry, this thing won't help.
Reply
Old May 1, 2006 | 09:10 AM
  #8  
89blues's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 150
Likes: 0
From: MN,Chanhassen
Car: 1989 IROC
Engine: L98
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3:23 Torsen 4th gen rear
I have a dewalt:
Things i've learned

Buff the car in small areas

Let the weight of the buffer do the buffing, do not push

don't use too much buffing compound, a lot acutally goes a long way

I use mine at 1400rpm
Reply
Old May 1, 2006 | 09:50 PM
  #9  
outlawracer's Avatar
Thread Starter
Member
 
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 209
Likes: 0
From: euless, tx
Car: 82 camaro berlinetta/87 sport coupe
Engine: 87 LG4 305
Transmission: world 5speed
Originally Posted by Mike-in-Orange
I understand that you were looking for detailed steps, but those steps vary wildly depending on what sort of machine you have. The one you have does make it easy to apply and remove wax, so if that's all you're looking to do then here's the deal:

After you've washed and dried the car you want to use the softest foam pad (polishing pad) you can find for this machine. Apply a thin bead of wax in a circle on the face of the pad, about halfway in (or you can apply the wax in an "X" pattern on the pad). With the machine at a slow to medium speed setting (I'm not sure how many settings these things have, but you don't want it moving really fast at this point) start working the wax into the finish. You want to get a nice even, thin coat of wax laid down. Let the wax dry to a haze.

You should be able to find microfiber bonnets to slip over either a stiffer foam pad (cutting pad) or a wool pad for this machine. Get a couple and slip one on. Now with the machine at it's fastest speed, begin removing the hazed wax. This is the part that saves your arms!

Keep in mind, this machine just does not have the guts to let you remove swirls, etc. In order to do that you need heat. You can get so much heat out of a rotary that you can very easily, too easily, burn through paint on sharp body creases. With a random orbital you can't generate anywhere near the heat so you need different products, different technique, and much more time to correct defects. There are limits to what this machine can do for you, but it's a great machine! The polisher you bought is really only good for what I've outlined above. If that's all you wanted, then you chose correctly and didn't spend more money than you should have. If you want to remove swirls, sorry, this thing won't help.
hey thanks man. thats what i was looking for
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
$750 L98
LTX and LSX
10
Feb 1, 2025 02:25 PM
InfernalVortex
Electronics
10
Apr 20, 2021 11:31 AM
SRKLEGIN
Interior
7
Oct 29, 2015 06:38 PM
TMZIrocZ350
Engine/Drivetrain/Suspension Parts for Sale
1
Oct 7, 2015 12:09 PM
tattmann
Electronics
1
Sep 27, 2015 05:20 PM




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:36 AM.