wiskerchen019

Good morning everyone! Ive always read these things but never wrote one, so here goes. Last year I was doing touch up paint on my 92 RS and some overspray seeped through my taped off Lexan plastic T Tops. I was wondering if anyone had any advice to help remove it. Im wondering if paint thinner would help, or Ive read maybe wet sanding and then polish? And a side question, if I were to swap them out, all I can find are the small pin glass tops, I have the large pin, if the research Ive done is correct, they wont transfer over correct? Thanks guys!

Polo Z03

iTrader: (1)

Depending on how bad the overspray is, clay bar can work wonders. I would not use any chemicals on the Lexan tops. . . when rubbing on the Lexan top you need to be very careful since they have a scratch resistant coating that you can rub off. Another Idea depending on the age of the overspray Goof Off does some amazing things.

As for the t-tops, you can swap the mechanicals of your large pin T's to a small pin T . . . but be better to watch for the correct ones to come along.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

Try a clay bar first as that will usually work fine. If not get some sandpaper of at least 1200 grit and lightly wet sand, moving up to at least 2000, then polish with something like M205. Someone did a good write-up on polishing the lean tops.

CharcoalBird

iTrader: (4)

I think I remember goof off causing some kind of damage or leaving a stain/film on glass...lexan may have the same results or worse. Don't quote me on that though.

As noted, clay bay should be the first thing you try.

Another suggestion(only if clay bar can't remove some) is to spray soap water and keep applying so it soaks the area. Then take a plastic razor blade and gently remove the remaining spray. Make sure to guide it at an angle close to the tops and don't apply much pressure. Also use plenty of lubricant when you are doing this (soap water or detail spray).

If you need polish the tops I would do as Tibo said and find that write-up.

wiskerchen019

Thanks guys! I went with the clay bar without much luck. The paint was pretty set on being from last year. I wet sanded them lightly and the paints gone, I'll polish em tomorrow and see how it goes. Thanks for taking the time to send some recommendations.

DonW

START with 2000 if you havent already done that....and you are going to need a high speed buffer with a WOOL pad to get the scratches out. The polish you use should contain SILICONE so as not to burn the lexan. The absolute best on the market is Power Pak. Body shops and the detail shops I worked for as a young fella all used this stuff below. Buff your whole car with it. Works wonders.

http://www.wds-usa.com/product_p/a00403.htm

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

How long ago did you work in a body shop or detail place? I haven't heard of any paint place that uses silicone anything, in fact they're known to have the ability to cause such havoc that any silicon product is kept in a different place. Other problem with silicone containing polishes is they prevent you the pad from doing much cutting because of its lubricity and it gives you a fake shine. I could see a detail only place using a silicone containing polish instead of a glaze, but I don't think it's going to work well in anything that needs polished after wet sanding.

DonW

Sorry Tibo, but you would be wrong. While silicone products cause fish eyeing during the painting process, they are quite frequently used to wet sand and polish AFTER painting. Silicone being the reason for less burning of plastics, fiberglasses, and sharp corners. I simply don't know where you get that they have less cutting effect either. Each polish is rated at a different grit, the one I listed is light to light medium. As far as a "fake gloss" thats the nature of silicone based. It does however dry and wipe off with a dry towel. He is buffing LEXAN. Did you read that? I wouldn't use ANYTHING except for silicone based polish on lexan. That stuff burns FAST.

DonW

Also, while I have the attention of some detailers and body shop guys. Clay bars are a HUGE waste of time. I personally think paint correction needs to be taught all over again teaching only the fundamentals of the trade. You can spend HOURS clay barring a vehicle, when you can simply get the lead out and go get out your extension cord and buffer and do it right with the right compounds, polishes, and waxes, while using the right step down process with the right chemicals and the right pads for your application! If you have ever found yourself clay barring an entire vehicle you are doing it WRONG.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

No, I'm not wrong. Doesn't matter what tone you take or soapbox you stand on. Most shops use 3M or Meguiar's. Most shops don't use silicone stuff. Silicone adds lubricity, great for the weekend guy with a factory finish paint job that wants to go out and buy a da and polish his car. If you are burning than you are going too slow, using the wrong pad, using to high of rpm or too high of a grit. That stuff sounds like wizards from ten years ago- came out and a couple people liked it but it never really caught on

DonW

Actually, I was thinking something similar. Maguires has some decent products for the weekend polisher, but if you want professional results you will use professional, more industrial compounds that will not be found on the shelf at your local Walmart. You will also have professional training, which I have, along with many years of experience.
Suppliers geared towards the professional shops will most likely have products you've never heard of, let alone have tried. If Maguires is your go to, fine, but if you have never tried the polish I listed and used it for its intended purpose, there is no need for you to knock it. Otherwise you don't know what your talking about. For example, YOU advised this poster to sand with 1200 grit FIRST (on lexan) and work his way to 2000. Then your next step was to use M205 which is a cheap FINISHING POLISH. Finishing polish is great as a last step, but youve started out all wrong with 1200 grit that will litterally score the hell out of lexan and only working up to 2000 which would take a bit of buffing to remove by itself. All of that to simply remove some over spray. 1200 grit is more like attacking oxidation on an old enamel paint job. Wrong approach. Then you want to skip right to some cheap FINISHING polish. It was just bad advise.

DonW

wiskerchen019,
My sincere apologies for hijacking your thread as it were. You have asked for professional advise and I have given it to you. I hope you understand that you will have to weed through the good, the bad, and the ugly when you ask for advise on a forum like this. Here is my professional advise that should solve your problem of over spray. Take it to a reputable detail shop. It is more expensive for you to remove it. Especially if it has baked on the car for a year like you mentioned. The cost of the materials is NOT worth the money for a one time gig like this. My Milwaukee high speed buffer costs more than you will pay someone else to detail your entire car and that detail will come with removing the overspray. Take it to a pro. Best advise you can get. Trust me.

DonW

I just saw where you have already started to sand on these on your own.
Unless you are a pro, you will not have an arsenal of products at your disposal to correct any issues that you may encounter during this process. You probably are also going to use off the shelf materials, and not exactly what I would use, but thats okay. Meguires and others CAN be made to work. I took the liberty of looking up a few that I would try in their place if I were in your shoes.
What I know of your style tops is that they most likely have a "crackling effect" in the center of the lexan itself from baking in the sun for many years. Of course you cannot fix that. When I stated earlier to START with 2000, I only had in mind to remove the overspray and not nescessarily any scratches in the lexan itself. If you were to do a complete restore of the tops removing the scratches and all, then below is a link of how it has been done somewhat successfully by another. If they are crackled up badly then there is always sanding them down and having them (or doing it yourself) painted inside and out. Replacing with a set of glass tops is really the way to go as that is cheaper than any of the advice in this thread. Hope this helps, and good luck!
Don
http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums...twbee7rZiGm.97

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

[QUOTE=DonW;6026205 Maguires has some decent products for the weekend polisher,
Then your next step was to use M205 which is a cheap FINISHING POLISH. Finishing polish is great as a last step, [/QUOTE]

You're right, I did mispeak, I meant M105. It's easy to mix up the numbers as which is which when I don't have them in front of me. Also recommended that compound because that is found in almost any store now a days. Never the less, you're a cranky person

wiskerchen019

@ Don W, Thanks for going in depth, can never have enough knowledge on these things. They were already Scratched to a small amount, and I didnt do any more damage with them, but your recomendation of swapping them with Glass, my question is this. I have the Large Pin style tops, and it seems all the glass tops are small pin. All the research that I have done on that says that you can NOT swap from big to small. Any truth in that? Id assume they wouldnt fit right anyway. Thanks again everyone!

DonW

I'm not sure about going from big pin to little pin, but im pretty sure you can use the older "hook"style. Have you looked into those? They came on the early cars from 82 - 83 I know of. But basically the ttops themselves are exactly the same in every way except for the hardware inside. Instead of a pin coming out when you pull the handle, a hook comes out. Then on the car side the hook goes into a metal plate that has a rectangle cutout. That rectangle cutout is a piece of hardware all by itself that bolts to the car. In other words, all of the hardware from the hook style that is attached to the body of the car is transferable to another car, which would be what you need. Then you just need the tops with a hook. Many guys on this board part cars and will know for certainty if this would work for you or not, but i honestly see no reason it wouldn't. I can tell you this; if it isnt an exact bolt up, it can be made to work with little effort. Here is a pic of the hook style...

scottmoyer

Not sure I agree with the aggressive actions to remove crud from the paint, Don. Telling people that a clay bar is a waste and the proper compounds and tools is a better option is not completely accurate. Clay bars are non marring and remove crap in your paint. Crap gets stuck in the paint even on the nicest of show cars. The last thing you want to do on a show worthy paint is to compound it. I can completely clay my Silverado truck in less than 30 minutes. I can then apply my top finishing products for a great shine. Recommending compounds is far too aggressive for many applications.

DonW

But in this particular scenario we have overspray on lexan t-tops. I personally would have tried wiping them down with a laquer thinner rag first and then polish them out. A clay bar was already used with no success, and the OP had already started sanding on them.
As far as the good ol clay bar is concerned, I do believe there are applications for a clay bar. A few sap droppings maybe, but clay barring is NOT a substitute for proper paint correction techniques. I realize every situation is different however, but clay barring an entire vehicle is pointless unless there is gunk imbedded all over, and even then what a waste of time when there are so many other better ways and techniques.

DonW

Your post makes it appear that I would recommend starting with a compound agent and use a step down process with a buffer for every application. Let me be clear, EVERY situation is different. Your scenario of a show conditioned vehicle is a good example of where a clay bar can come in handy. Tops, you are only looking to remove crud from a spot or two. The rest of the car is SHOW material and only needs the remaining portions of it cared for with finishing polishes and waxes. Quote: "Recommending compounds is far too aggressive for many applications."
I never recommended starting with compounds for every application.

scottmoyer

I use a clay bar on my daily driver. I have a 2006 Silverado that is in excellent condition, and has 150k miles. Just driving in the rain, with the sun coming out allows dirt to adhere to the paint and work itself in over time. After 6 months, you can feel the impurities in the paint. It doesn't need any paint correction, it just needs to have brake dust and every day fallout removed from the surface. Using the clay bar across the entire truck "cleans" the paint without having to correct it.

In post 9, you stated that clay bar is a waste of time and paint correction needs to be retaught. A clay bar is a step in paint correction, but it is not the only step. I disagree with you, and you clearly did say that compounds are the proper way.

DonW

Scott, that is twice you have taken what I have said about "compounds" out of context.

"Compunds, polishes, and waxes" along with the "correct chemicals" SHOULD negate the use of a clay bar. There ARE applications for a clay bar. First, a person needs to know what the clay bar is for. Not saying you do not, but it is WAY TOO OFTEN the first choice of most Joe Blows who have no idea of it's intended purpose. I think maybe it just sounds like some cool sound advice. Well, most of the time it isn't sound advice. It was advised to use a clay bar in this thread to remove baked on overspray, as if the clay bar itself were a scrubby That aint gonna happen.
A couple of things I like a clay bar for are:
I like a clay bar on a NEW vehicle that has never been waxed for sure. It removes all kinds of debris. Industrial fallout, brake dust not even seen by the naked eye, magnetic particles etc. Once that is taken care of, a good wax with a good sealer in it (not your off the shelf over-priced CHEAP stuff). For maintenance of the same vehicle a clay bar should definitely not be necessary as all of the debris that would normally attack your paint are caught in the wax and sealer. A good industrial strength car wash with wax remover is all that is necessary, and negates the use of a clay bar for a LOOOONG time. Once it is washed, just re-wax.
Your Silverado would benefit from that type of system and save you allot of time.

Please do not think I write any of this in a spirit of divisiveness, or to argue. I have no need to argue anything I have learned over the last 30 years in this business.

Paint correction and the use of a clay bar are two different things. A clay bar is NOT a step in paint correction. Paint correction ussually involves scratches, swirls, orange peel, acidic rain, acidic bird droppings and anything that actually burns away at or scratches the clear coat. However I assure you that a picture could be posted of a car with bad swirl marks and 99% of people on this forum would advise to attack it with a clay bar! smh
Scott, I pulled into a detail shop to visit one of my previous 1099 guys that used to work for me. He told me that their shop ONLY used clay bar system, and he wasn't even allowed to use the only high speed orbital they had in the shop. That was for "the boss". This is why I say paint correction needs to be taught. They are literally claying every car and applying wax by hand and removing the wax with a jitterbug. Yeah, the cars come out looking decent so long as they went in with half way decent paint, but I assure you they will never get the kind of results I am known for. I pride myself in it.
You of course are free to disagree with anything I say. There are SOOO many different opinions on which cleaner, which wax, what grit, what sealer etc, that i tend to just stay away from the topic. It is MY business to know my work, and I dont find it rewarding to come into the detailing section because there are a MASS of weekenders with their turtle wax that just know it all and you cant teach them anything. Instead, I joined this forum to learn more about my own car. I'm no professional mechanic, so I learn from those who are. I also enjoy talking with like minded third-gen enthusiast. That is why I'm here. I have allot to offer on this subject, but it is WAY too tiring weeding through the know-it-alls in order to help one guy.

DonW

I should also say that the "Power-Pak" polish listed above has been around for a LOOOOONG time. I had completely forgotten about it until I saw this thread about LEXAN. In fact, probably the last time I used Power Pak on anything was while working for a body shop as a young fella that also had an attached detail shop. This was early to late nineties of using that stuff frequently. Silicone isnt my go to now, but I havent seen lexan tops in quite some time and knew that was the perfect choice for someone who isnt a pro to not burn his tops. While it was on my mind during this thread, I did go ahead and order some. It arrived yesterday. I had forgotten how great of stuff it really is. A good polish with it and it lasts a good 6 months. Waxing between times is a breeze too as removing the wax is MUCH easier with a good twice a year power pak polish under the wax. I really like it, and can once again say I recommend it and may just make it my go to

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/body...r-lexan-t.html
Here is the thread where FueledSoul refinished a pair of Lexan Tops. He started below 2000 grit and used a rubbing compund without silicone and they came out beautifully.

DonW

Yep. They turned out great it appears. He wasn't just trying to remove overspray though is why he had to start with such a low grit. Those were some pretty deep gouges and scratches. He even used turtle wax compound in the process. Other products can be made to work. I acknowledged that in my post above where I recommended a thread on the meguires website of an individual who did basically the same thing with meguires products. Both of these guys were going for a complete restore of the tops, not just trying to remove overspray. They both turned out pretty good too.