Redoing the front end.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 856
Likes: 10
From: West Palm Beach, FL
Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: SBC
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73
Redoing the front end.
I'm just wondering how i can prep the front end for paint. The paint is rough in some places. I don't know what to sand it with to get it all smooth and ready for priming. Anybody?




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Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Springfield, Oregon
Car: 85 Z28, 88 GTA, 68 Cutlass S
Engine: 305TPI X2 ;), Chevy 250
Transmission: T5, 700R4, powerslide >:(
Axle/Gears: posi, and posi w/discs :D.
personally id use some light sand paper and get it by hand. some people say you can use a DA on it, but i think id just do it by hand. it shouldnt take you too long to sand it down.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 856
Likes: 10
From: West Palm Beach, FL
Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: SBC
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73
alright thank sounds good, i figured i was gunna need something like 180. Alright thanks for the help, appreciate it
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From: Readsboro, VT
Car: 85 IROC-Z / 88 GTA
Engine: 403 LSx (Pending) / 355 Tuned Port
Transmission: T56 Magnum (Pending) / T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 / ?
180 on a DA will take it down rather quickly, then you can redo it with 220 on the DA to get it real smooth. I don't usually going over it later with a block and 320 because the urethane is so deformed that blocking it is a waste of time.
For the amount of work involved with getting rid of those spiderweb cracks in the lower valance, I'd pick one up on Ebay that's in better shape and not bother wasting my time with that one.
For the amount of work involved with getting rid of those spiderweb cracks in the lower valance, I'd pick one up on Ebay that's in better shape and not bother wasting my time with that one.
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From: Everett, MA . USA
Car: 89 FORMULA FIREBIRD, 86 CHEVY CAMARO
Engine: L98, LB9 RESPECTIVLY
Transmission: 700 R4 (BOTH)
You can buy a chemical stripper that will not harm the rubber, it makes a real nasty mess but won't dig in to the rubber like sandpaper will.
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 852
Likes: 0
From: Springfield, Oregon
Car: 85 Z28, 88 GTA, 68 Cutlass S
Engine: 305TPI X2 ;), Chevy 250
Transmission: T5, 700R4, powerslide >:(
Axle/Gears: posi, and posi w/discs :D.
Originally Posted by John 89 Formula
You can buy a chemical stripper that will not harm the rubber, it makes a real nasty mess but won't dig in to the rubber like sandpaper will.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 856
Likes: 10
From: West Palm Beach, FL
Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: SBC
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73
i acutally used aircraft remover on the front end...did a great job...nice and smooth for the most part and makes the car look much much better. Could use alittle sanding but im extremely happy with the results..
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 852
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From: Springfield, Oregon
Car: 85 Z28, 88 GTA, 68 Cutlass S
Engine: 305TPI X2 ;), Chevy 250
Transmission: T5, 700R4, powerslide >:(
Axle/Gears: posi, and posi w/discs :D.
Originally Posted by LoudmouthSS
i acutally used aircraft remover on the front end...did a great job...nice and smooth for the most part and makes the car look much much better. Could use alittle sanding but im extremely happy with the results..
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 856
Likes: 10
From: West Palm Beach, FL
Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: SBC
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73
oo yea deff....the front ground effects i guess i will replace. Im gunna sand the front end a bit so its perfectly smooth (hopefully)
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From: NE Ohio
Car: 1989 Toyota Supra Turbo
Engine: 7M-GTE
Transmission: R154
Axle/Gears: 3.91 LSD
I just got done doing this to my car. I got in a fight with a tire on the highway last fall..
I would completely strip your bumper down to the rubber.. The cracks are all the way down to that and you will not get them out otherwise.
I started with 80, then i went to 180 on the da. Don't hit the lips or edges with the da because it will cause flat spots. After hitting everything with the DA, I went over it with a soft block with 180. Then you can use pre-clean to find any cracks that might still be in your bumper. Trust me, a few will show up!
Also, is some are very minor, they will come out when you wet block the primer.
Yes, i know it is a pain in the ****, but if you want it to look good, you'll take the extra time.
I would completely strip your bumper down to the rubber.. The cracks are all the way down to that and you will not get them out otherwise.
I started with 80, then i went to 180 on the da. Don't hit the lips or edges with the da because it will cause flat spots. After hitting everything with the DA, I went over it with a soft block with 180. Then you can use pre-clean to find any cracks that might still be in your bumper. Trust me, a few will show up!
Also, is some are very minor, they will come out when you wet block the primer.
Yes, i know it is a pain in the ****, but if you want it to look good, you'll take the extra time.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 856
Likes: 10
From: West Palm Beach, FL
Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: SBC
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73
yea i just tried the same trick on the rear bumper..what a mess...looks like **** lol.
Looks like im going to have to sand. Ill follow your example with the 80>180 deal
Looks like im going to have to sand. Ill follow your example with the 80>180 deal
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 856
Likes: 10
From: West Palm Beach, FL
Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: SBC
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73
ah well i got a pad for a normal drill and some adhesive sand paper and went at it...used a pretty slow spinning drill and 8 grit..much better
but now my bumper is pink lol...i guess it was red and painted over?..not sure but it looks kinda stupid lol o well...at least its stripped
but now my bumper is pink lol...i guess it was red and painted over?..not sure but it looks kinda stupid lol o well...at least its stripped
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