Cleaning underbody suggestions
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From: cleveland
Car: 92 camaro z28
Cleaning underbody suggestions
Well I have a lil surface rust here and there and before I weld my umi sfc's in I wanted to clean it up.
Any suggestions....
I was gonna wire wheel ....then etch prime...then undercoat or chip gaurd it.
If anybody has a better way or solution to make it look better or to use different products please let me know.
Any suggestions....
I was gonna wire wheel ....then etch prime...then undercoat or chip gaurd it.
If anybody has a better way or solution to make it look better or to use different products please let me know.
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From: Florida
Car: 1987 Black IROC-Z (SOLD)
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From: Northern Ohio
Re: Cleaning underbody suggestions
Yeah, you can apply it to whatever you want to. But if you want rust protection it needs to be put on the bare metal. It's a RUST ENCAPSULATOR. Not a top coat. If you put it over paint, it's only going to stick as well as that paint did, and it isn't going to do crap for the metal.
Also, if you only apply it to one side of the metal, you're wasting your time also. The panel will just rust out from the other side.
http://www.por15.com/faq.asp
.
Mathius
Also, if you only apply it to one side of the metal, you're wasting your time also. The panel will just rust out from the other side.
WHAT IS THE BEST SURFACE ON WHICH TO PAINT POR-15?
POR-15 likes rusted surfaces best. Seasoned metal and sandblasted metal are also good. POR-15 does not adhere well to smooth, shiny surfaces, but will adhere well to those surfaces with the proper preparation.
CAN I APPLY POR-15 OVER OTHER PAINTS?
Yes, but you will lose the important benefits of POR-15. You must remember that ordinary paints are weakened by exposure to moisture. POR-15 can't stop rust if it isn't in direct contact with the base metal.
POR-15 likes rusted surfaces best. Seasoned metal and sandblasted metal are also good. POR-15 does not adhere well to smooth, shiny surfaces, but will adhere well to those surfaces with the proper preparation.
CAN I APPLY POR-15 OVER OTHER PAINTS?
Yes, but you will lose the important benefits of POR-15. You must remember that ordinary paints are weakened by exposure to moisture. POR-15 can't stop rust if it isn't in direct contact with the base metal.
.
Mathius
Last edited by Steve86TA; Jan 8, 2009 at 06:46 PM.
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From: Northern Ohio
Re: Cleaning underbody suggestions
I did the floor pans top and bottom on my '76 Chevelle with POR after I welded in new pans. I've never undercoated a vehicle.
I'm gonna tell you right now, it's a b*tch to get POR to stick to clean metal, but once you get it to stick, it hardens like a rock.
If it were me, I'd take care of any rotten spots, and then have the whole underbody rhino lined, or if money is a problem, try brushing it on myself.
From what I've read the brush on stuff lay as nice or last as long as a pro job, but it'd be a PITA stripping the paint from the whole underside of the car just to put POR down.
And then like I said, you may have trouble getting it to stick. You have to really etch the surface first good. If you don't, the stuff peels right off like old varnish on a wood floor.
Mathius
I'm gonna tell you right now, it's a b*tch to get POR to stick to clean metal, but once you get it to stick, it hardens like a rock.
If it were me, I'd take care of any rotten spots, and then have the whole underbody rhino lined, or if money is a problem, try brushing it on myself.
From what I've read the brush on stuff lay as nice or last as long as a pro job, but it'd be a PITA stripping the paint from the whole underside of the car just to put POR down.
And then like I said, you may have trouble getting it to stick. You have to really etch the surface first good. If you don't, the stuff peels right off like old varnish on a wood floor.
Mathius
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From: cleveland
Car: 92 camaro z28
Re: Cleaning underbody suggestions
Well I have rhino lined trucks at my old job and that **** is a bitch. I did a few hummer bodys that came in on there sides on a flat bed. That herculiner roll on **** is worthless...it tends to peel off. I am just gonne wire wheel it a tab on the surface rust and try the por-15. I think I might etch prime it first as well.
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From: Northern Ohio
Re: Cleaning underbody suggestions
Well I have rhino lined trucks at my old job and that **** is a bitch. I did a few hummer bodys that came in on there sides on a flat bed. That herculiner roll on **** is worthless...it tends to peel off. I am just gonne wire wheel it a tab on the surface rust and try the por-15. I think I might etch prime it first as well.
When I said you had to etch the metal, I mean you have to acid etch. You use either their metal ready product or something else. I didn't have much luck with the metal ready, but then maybe I just didn't apply enough of it. On the contours of the floor, the way they're shaped, it's hard to get the stuff to just sit on there.
There was a guy on Chevy Talk who told me about another product he used to etch that was better, but I don't recall what it was. I'll look later.
Again, POR has to go on bare metal, or you're just wasting your time.
Mathius
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From: Lawrence, KS
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Re: Cleaning underbody suggestions
JamesC
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From: Northern Ohio
Re: Cleaning underbody suggestions
Here's what that guy wrote I was talking about:
I'm not advocating any of this, I've never used his method. I'm just saying, etch it good before you apply the POR if you're going to.
Mathius
The product I used disolved the rust right down to bare metal, kinda like navel paste but way easier & better. It was called "Oxisolv" I bought it from a vendor at a swap meet. I do have a flyer for the product but it does not have a web address. It does say "made by solv-o corporation". I also have the phone # of the guy I got it from and he does ship it. His name is Roger Montgomery phone number is 815-756-6037. You remove any lose rust and then spray this stuff on and keep agitating (spelled wrong) it with steel wool or a brown 3-M pad. In fact you can't store it in a metal container because it will eat right through it. If you leave rusted parts in a pan of it over night the rust will be gone in the morning. I kept spraying it on my frame making sure it stayed wet for 1-3 hours until the rust was gone.
As far as applying it. I used a good cheap soft paint brush. there is no way you can possibly clean a brush with POR on it so it has to be disposable. I used more than several brushes and I also found out the the foam paint brushes worked very very good, they left the surface like glass, black glass anyway. that all you needed to know? Dan
As far as applying it. I used a good cheap soft paint brush. there is no way you can possibly clean a brush with POR on it so it has to be disposable. I used more than several brushes and I also found out the the foam paint brushes worked very very good, they left the surface like glass, black glass anyway. that all you needed to know? Dan
Mathius
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