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Hello, I am looking for advice on how to bond the impact brace that's inside the door to the door skin.
I am currently trying to get rid of door rattles and noise. I have started applying Dynamat and have noticed a 100% improvement.
It is hard to get the Dynamat behind the impact brace so I was wondering if there was some type of adhesive or sealant or even silicone I could use?
Does anyone have experience with this issue of the factory adhesive breaking apart from the door skin and what to use?
Thanks, I appreciate the help!
I ran into that problem with every 3M product I came across. Then I went and bought the guns and now there's nothing in the 3M catalog I'm not prepared to dispense.
The dispensing tools really aren't that expensive. Buy the 3M version with their name on it, and yeah, maybe, probably... Buy the version they show in their tutorial videos that looks like some kind of sci-fi world eraser, and yeah... But just about all the 3M tools have a generic substitute. I could go digging in receipts, but I found one of the 3M tools NOS on Ebay for a song, like $15, still in the box sealed in plastic. The other I found on Amazon for about a third of the price of the exact same tool in 3M packaging.
The gun that 3M NVH uses is the same gun that 3M bumper repair adhesives use, and some of the seam sealers, and so on. It's a tool with many uses.
High 10:1 expansion rate fills large cavities with a small amount of material
I considered the foams, but decided to avoid them due to expansion. My concern being that an expanding foam could cause the door skin to push away from the impact bar. But if you say it works in that role, I trust your judgement.
If you're looking to get rid of rattles, just stuff the crack with butyl rope. I used that on the panels that are near the roof skin and it make a drastic impact. It's easy and inexpensive
I did most of the cabin in my 92, firewall, floors, hump with factory mass backing carpet. I haven't even gotten to the doors and I am close to "new car" sound levels in the interior. Most people can't believe it is so quiet in there when we drive.
Rebuilding the doors in my Iroc has made a night and day difference. Used to sound like slamming a Folgers can full of old hardware. Now it's like an entirely different car.
Rebuilding the doors in my Iroc has made a night and day difference. Used to sound like slamming a Folgers can full of old hardware. Now it's like an entirely different car.
It doesn't get out much. It's a bit of a train wreck with a sketchy history. It was the car that served as an example of all the things you look for when buying a thirdgen so you don't end up with a car like my Iroc. It photos pretty well though. On a long enough timeline I might actually get around to fixing the rest of the issues, but as it is I just carve away the to-do list a little at a time, and it keeps getting better. Still needs a paint job, among other things.
1998
Hmm... Pulled out the original print and ran it thru the scanner. Figured it had to come out better than the 1998 scan. Cleared it up a bit, but the color is off a bit.
Thanks everyone for the quick reply's! Lots of great info.
Originally Posted by dagwood
We use the 3M panel bond everywhere else, but the flexible foam is what you want in that spot. It's the same type of stuff that the factories use
NVH 4274 looks promising! I think the 3M 08463 Flexible Foam is what I need. I'm curious as if I was to use too much, would it buckle the door skin? Also, is it possible to rent the gun to dispense the foam?
Originally Posted by scooter
If you're looking to get rid of rattles, just stuff the crack with butyl rope. I used that on the panels that are near the roof skin and it make a drastic impact. It's easy and inexpensive
Really good pictures! I have also noticed a vibration under the upper folded part of the door skin. I'll have to deal with that as well...and the mirror rattles.
Originally Posted by scooter
This is a great resource for sound deadening if that is what you're after, even if you don't buy from them
