Trying to put the guts of my doors back together since my painter removed everything. Need some help. The threads I’ve found about the power window motors all assume the regulator is still mounted in the door. With my setup being out of the door, do I need to clamp or bolt the regulator to prevent the large spring from moving? I’m not sure where I need to put the bolt people are talking about. Here’s what I have:





Second part of the question is once I get this and the tracks back in the door, what’s the best way to install the glass? I purchased new glass so I’ll have to transfer all the pieces from the old window to the new one. I don’t have a clue how the glass was removed or how to properly put it back in - like what rollers go where and any tips for maneuvering the glass into place. Can anyone recommend a quality how to video maybe?

 

Here’s a picture of the window track. Will the new glass fit into the opening at the top of the door if I install the track now? I assume so if the glass came out of the door like this. I really don’t want to scratch or break the new window. Took over 2 months to receive after I ordered them.

 

You can put the regulators back inside the door just as they are, but it is a PITA to get the bolt holes lined up correctly with the holes in the door. Also, you must remove the vertical roller tracks on the door to get the regulator inside of it.

 

Worked on this a little bit yesterday. I used mechanic wire to hold the regulator in place to remove the motor. I wrapped the wire between the hole in the bracket that attaches to the door and the hole in the big gear piece. Factory rivets were drilled out and new ACDelco motors installed with new 1/4” rivets. I have a large rivet tool from Harbor Freight for the 1/4” rivets as a normal rivet tool won’t do this large of a size.
I started taking the plastic bumpers and tracks off the old window. That was pretty easy. Some of these pieces need to be riveted onto the new window but I didn’t have ones long enough. They are 1/4” diameter peel rivets and about 3/4” long. Had to order some from Napa. Napa part number is BK 6652335. These cross reference to GM part numbers 12338153 and 20184399. I also bought some blue painters tape. I’m going to cover the window so it doesn’t get all scratched up when I try to install it into the door. Not sure when I’m going to try tackling that yet.

 

Cut you some wood blocks, or, I used two big hobby clamps with rubber ends to hold the window up while working on it. TRUST ME, you don't want that window to come down on your hand. Ask me how I know.

 

I used 2 glass suction cups to hold it up. 2 cups about 18 inches apart to distribute weight and also if one fails you don't loose your hands!

 

I didn’t read everything carefully so may be redundant.

Install everything in the door except the glass.

Then install glass from top down into that lower track slot.

Then rivet the glass in place. Make sure the plastic bushings are in good condition and in place. No part of the glass should touch metal.

 

Probably not too helpful but did find these; after tracks went back in but before glass added and riveted. Does appear the front track is not in yet.

 

that's what i was wondering. seems like i need to put the glass in the door without the front plastic limiter piece (not sure what it's called) or the track attached. then rivet these pieces to the glass through the holes in the door metal.
this is exactly what you're describing right?
i have power windows. sounds like it's going to be a pain trying to get the wheels on the regulator arms back in the window tracks.
i'm definitely going to cut some wood supports and have a friend or two come over to help hold things as an extra precaution.
soooo not looking forward to doing this!

 

I cannot remember exactly.

My recollection is all parts can go in the door ahead of glass. Leave that front assembly loose. I would expect GM designed it to allow glass replacement with the front track and triangle In the car. I’m 99% sure. Im guessing it doesn’t even need to be loose. There should be enough space at the back end of door to fit in the glass if the rear seal is loose.

 

I put the PS regulator & motor back in today and when I tested it with the switch the motor is making a horrible noise when I press up. It doesn’t do it when I press down. These are brand new AC Delco window motors. It sounds like the teeth on the regulator are binding or something. Anyone have ideas on what’s going on here??

 

Figured out the new window motor was bad. The DS one worked fine so I knew I didn’t assemble the PS wrong. At first I thought maybe the regulator teeth were messed up so I put the motor on a spare regulator I had. Same noise so that ruled out the regulator. Then I remembered I had a new in the box Dorman window motor that was in a parts car I bought years ago. Installed that motor and then everything worked fine. Sucks a brand new AC Delco motor was faulty. Bought it so long ago I can’t return it. Just glad I figured out the issue.

 

As mentioned everything gets built/installed in the door and then the glass goes in last. Originally the glass was riveted into the horizontal bar however some have used bolts and lock nuts instead.

As far as the new Delco regulator, count the number of teeth on your old motor and then on the new one. I ran into this on my 91 Z and the part numbers are wrong. Installed it went down but not up and when I pulled it back out and apart discovered the interchange was wrong.