I'm on the door stage of my build, so I figured I'd rebuild my hinges and replace my window motors and lock actuators while im here. I read a few threads on here but wanted to put everything together in one post that I learned from multiple.

Many vendors are selling motor and regulator assemblies for 4th gens with modern style motors. I purchased a set from Amazon for under $100/pair.

The rollers, mounting bracket, and connector were all direct replacements. The only modification I had to make was removing and reversing the tension spring to match the direction of the original unit. Four 1/4" window regulator rivets and a ton of white lithium grease later and the window moves faster than it ever has in its 37 years.

For anyone that is considering a window racer type product or even just had to replace their motor, I can't recommend this mod enough.

 

Hmm good to know. The factory ones are slloooooooow.

 

I would estimate it's probably 20-25% faster. I should have timed it before I tore it apart. And the motors I removed were fairly new

 

Can you share a link to the product? I am interested in this upgrade as I will be at this stage next month after the car is painted this month.

 

some more info would be great
pictures?
link to what you purchased?

 

This is what I purchased (and the matching left side) I will take pictures when I swap the right side out tonight. The motor in this door had been replaced with screws, which fell off when I took the door off the car. So it won't be a step-by-step r&r procedure, I'll just highlight the differences in The regulators


https://a.co/d/hVDlLPk

 

This is is the right side regulator old and new. Note that the spring is reversed out of the package.
Installation is exactly the same as the original.

 

thank you

thats pretty wild they are the same, sans the back wards clock spring.

 

I was amazed myself. I figured for less than $100, it was worth the gamble on parts to find out, but I was doubtful the entire time.

 

Looks like the tooth count may be different between the 2. Think i noticed that when i was looking up motors. IiRC, They have different part numbers.
May want to leave a note written on the door explaining there's 4th gen regulators and motors in there.

Cleaned and relubed door latches make the lock solenoids work very well again.

 

The tooth count is different, and to be honest, I'm not sure what application you would order replacement motors for considering the pancake style were oe.
I have the latches out and I'm going to soda blast them and lube the hell out of them. I was able to get new actuators on RockAuto closeout for $7 each

 

Thank you, sir, for the information and pictures. These are now on my list to tackle as mentioned before. I assume there is no real trick to reversing the spring to make sure it does not uncoil. And does the coil "tail" go into the slot or above the slot?

 

You're welcome! It's a great benefit at such a reasonable cost. It doesn't really help with serviceability as the motor fasteners are inaccessible with the regulator mounted, but still worth it.

I mounted the regulator arm in a vice and used vice grips to unwind the spring. It requires a reasonable amount of force, but it isn't difficult. The tang locates in the relief in between the raised portions. Once you have it in front of you it's pretty self explanatory.

 

Wow. This is a really cool idea. Amazing that it works.

So the spring needs to be reversed, but do you also have to drill new mounting holes for the regulator?
I ask because it looks like there are some added holes there, or are those from the removal of the stock stuff?

Did the new parts have any lube on the rollers when you bought them? I have all my stuff out of my doors now and the lube in the tracks is like thick slime.
Wondering what it was back in the day, and what I should use once I clean all this old stuff out.

What about the plug? Did you have to swap the OE plug onto the end of the new unit?

 

The additional holes on the door are courtesy of whatever hack replaced the window motors last in this car. The regulator mounts to the factory rivet locations without issue.

The electrical connector is exactly the same, just with a wired connection that has to be zip tied to prevent interference with the window glass.

 

As far as the original lubricant, it smells like chassis grease. I much prefer white lithium grease, I've been using it on window mechanisms for years. The new parts came with the most minut amount of grease on them. Adding white lithium wasn't an issue

 

Is that spring you need to reverse under a lot of pressure?
Like does it want to unwind very much?
From your description it doesn't sounds like it was hard. I just can't imagine it in my mind exactly.

Plan to pick these up tonight. Very cool that I won't have to put my doors back together with old 90's motors.

 

It's a stout spring with pressure on it regardless of position. It can be accomplished with vice grips though, so it isn't terrible. Once you have the part in front of you I think it will click

 

Very good thread, OP ! Thanks

 

Just a heads up buying both sides together is $120 when clicking on the driver side first, it shows up as an option.
Buying each side individually is $107. Buying mine tonight.

 

Was about to place my order and noticed that the passenger side option doesn't have the crease on the large geared component.
Went over the RockAuto to see what options they have and if you search for 93 Camaro window regulator, there are many.
Some that look like our stock unit's motor setup and some that look like what is available on Amazon.

Before buying, I wanted to see if anyone else found any of this interesting. Makes me think I might spend a bit more and get RockAuto parts, not sure yet.

 

Not that I have purchased these (yet) but these looked like they would be a close to what ratfink installed.

 

The only difference I see is the orientation of the left side motor, which shouldn't impact function at all. The one I got is strangely 90* from "standard" but doesn't have the provisions to be bolted the other way properly.

 

 

I spent some time looking at parts on RockAuto last night and they have various designs for the window regulator.
No idea what is "best" but the prices swing from $45 to about $70.
There are two distinct designs:
1. Ones that look like stock where the connector is on the motor
2. Others that look like there is a new style motor with some sort of gear box and the connector is on the end of a wire.
Price doesn't seem to define the style.

Something to keep in mind is that these units need to live in the elements.
Getting humid and a bit wet from condensation. Some of the units on RockAuto look to have a zinc coating for corrosion resistance, others don't.
Maybe that is a reason for some being higher priced, no idea.
I also noticed that the rollers on the end of the arms look different on different models. Some look like stock, that are sort of a hard rubber wheel.
Others look like cheap hard plastic wheels with no rubber at all. This could be another source of cost difference.

Just wanted to throw this all out there for other's consideration. I will post here what I eventually buy.

 

I'm curious why the clock springs were mounted opposite. They serve the very same purpose (assist with raising window, to offset the weight of the glass) in a 4th gen and iirc, the regulators are oriented the same way in a 4th gen. Perhaps it is just a manufacturer error?

 

As much as I'd love to say I'm observant enough to have noticed, it was a one off comment in a thread I found on here that mentioned it and sure enough, it was backwards.

 

Interesting about the backwards issue.
RockAuto, in my experience, has had very accurate photos of the parts I am ordering.
I will take a second look at their 4th gen regulator images and see if the spring looks to be backwards on those units.

The only brand I recognize is Dorman, seen that name around for years. I am leaning to buying those since I recognize the name.
Wonder if they are backwards too.

Random side question: Is everyone going to go back to using rivets to hold this new stuff in? I personally hate the permanence of rivets and would much rather use nylock nuts and bolts with blue threadlocker. But wondering what others are doing.

 

I've always used rivets. But that mostly comes from all the years working on customer cars... putting things back how I found them.

Rivets can have the added benefit of less rattles in the future though. They compress and take up any slop there might be in the mounting holes. A threaded fastener can't do that, so after several years you may get some movement.

 

Thanks for the insights.

I think for a build like mine I will go with nuts and bolts, simply so I can get back in there if needed.
Due to the nature of my build being very custom, shaved door handles, custom door panels, billet arm rests, etc...

If I was doing a stock rebuild, makes sense to go with rivets.

 

What about using rivnuts in the regulator?

 

Not a bad idea. I have some from a kit I bought at Harbor Freight.
Not sure how small they get, but I will check tonight.

 

Not home to look at my own OE parts, but does the regulator get attached to some other bracket that has small grips that hold the glass?
Maybe a stupid question since I know there is another bracket that has the down travel bump stop on it, but I don't see that in any of the pictures listed here.

At work now, and question popped into my head, how are people attaching these 4th gen regulators to the bracket that holds the glass...

 

There is a provision for the rollers in the window channel.

 

Right. Thanks. I took a look last night and I didn't realize it has a separate bracket that holds the glass and that it has its own roller.

 

So the next question..Is will this work with those and the stock 3rd gen wiring.. Cause if it will ,I'd love to have both.
1993-2002 Camaro/Firebird Window Express Down Kit, Driver Side, Autotrix - Hawks Third Generation

 

Bringing this thread back from the dead a bit.

I am getting ready to rough assemble doors and curious if people that have used the 4th gen regulators have had any issues in the real world.

Also what exactly did you guys buy? Looking to order from rockauto if possible.