Hi guys. I bought a set of Earl's Solo bleeder screws for the front calipers and rear drums on a 1991 Camaro Z28. I read the instructions that by installing these bleeders it will help me bleed the system w/o the mess of vacuum type bleeders and allows one person to bleed the system. Ok, don't I still need an assistant to watch the brake fluid and air bubbles coming out of the bleeder screw and tighten it up? If not, do I just figure that as the pedal gets firmer, will that be the time to snug the Solo bleeder?

 

Steve,
First fill the master cylinder with brake fluid and place the cap on. Then all you need to do is crack the bleeder, starting from the furthest one away (pass. rear) . Make sure to attach a hose to direct thr fluid to a can or something. Pump the pedal, you will feel it go down to the floor, a few times and then tighen up the bleeder. Repeat the steps until all calipers are bleed. Make sure to check your fluid level, and add if needed.

Bleeders work by only allowing fluid and air to flow out only, and not allowing air back into the system.

Hope this helps,

 

if the car is off you will be able to hear the bubbles. i was, but i had no hose or catch can, i just blasted brake fluid all over my rear end and driveway

 

So I don't need an assistant to watch to see if the bubbles are gone? If not, by pumping on the brake pedal inside the car how will I know when to stop pumping? When it doesn't go to the floor?

 

Wow, did it take paint off the car? How many times did you pump on the brake pedal before tightening the bleeder screw?

 

Steve,

If the system is completely empty, you may have to pump the brake to the floor 5 or more times. If not it should take no more than 2. If you want to over do it, bleed each caliper till the res. tank half empty at least twice. That should get all the air out of the system. You sould be able to hear the bubbles stop, then you should feel the pedal as the fluid is pushed thru the system.

 

I plan on flushing out the old brake fluid. Do I keep pumping until the master cylinder is empty and then add the new brake fluid right?

 

no you should never let the master cylinder get empty, if that happens then yo will have to bench bleed it and start all over, if you want to flush the whole system let the fluid get a little low and fill it up with new fluid, do this a couple times and when you are done you will have new fluid in the lines. hope this helps you. -jon

 

Hi jon, I bought two 1 liter cans of Ate Super Blue Brake Fluid. Do I need more brake fluid to completely flush it?

 

yeah that much fluid should be enough to replace the fluid in the lines, not sure of the exact amount thats in the lines, but 2 liters sounds like plenty

 

Ok, I got the brakes installed. I got the front calipers, rotor, front braided brake hoses and the rears as well. I had a problem getting the rear rubber hose off from the rear T-fitting. I was afraid of stripping it off. What type of penetrant do you recommend I use to undo those hardline fittings joined at the "T". Well, for the time being I left the rear rubber hose on there, but I do want to replace it. Now, while I was driving the car, I noticed that I had increased brake pedal travel. What is the measurement for brake pedal travel? What is the proper method for decreasing brake pedal travel? Your responses would be appreciated. Thank you.

 

i would recomend pb blaster, as far as the other questions i am not sure

 

Hey guys. I have been researching about brake pedal travel. I have been told that by adjusting the rear brake shoes, that is what determines how far the brake pedal travels., In other words, when I tighten the brake shoes closer to the drum, the less travel the brake pedal has. Does anybody agree with this?

 

Ok had the rear brake hose installed last week. I put on Cryo'd Power Slot rotors, Hawk HPS Pads, Fenco remanufactured calipers, Earl's SS brake hoses, Earl Solo bleeders, Timken wheel bearings and new rear brake shoes and drums prior to the rear brake hose install. I have been running them for the past three weeks with no noises and breaking them in. Two days ago, I started hearing a tick-tick-tick sound coming from the driver's side caliper when I lightly applied the brake pedal making gradual stops. Today, being the third day, I took the driver's side wheel off and noticed the outer brake pad had play-I could move it up and down using a screwdriver. I checked the passenger side and there was no up and down movement. The driver's side brake pads were taken off, sanded lightly and bent the "tabs" on the outer pad to assure a tight fit on the caliper. They were re-installed on the car and took it for a road test. The first four blocks before hitting a stop sign, no noise...ten minutes of stop and go moving on busy streets I noticed the "tick-tick-tick" sound come back again when I lightly applied the brakes on gradual stops. I called the Hawk Performance Group and told them my situation and told me it was not design of the pads, it was the caliper itself. I thought the caliper was responsible for grabbing to make the car slow down, but not for fitment. So, what do you guys think? Is it the caliper that's wrong or have any other ideas?