I installed a line lock the other day on my bird. Im down to wiring it now and I want to wire it cleverly, not just a toggle switch. Ive heard of ford guys doing it through the horn button some how. during my burnout at the track I dnt really like to take my hand off the B&M mega shifter, and my other hand on the wheel (my rear end likes to swing out to the driver side a lil). I thought about getting a new megashift handle with a button for the line lock but I dnt want to accidentally hit the button on the street and cause a problem. Of course I could put a toggle switch to kill power to the shifter handle but now things are getting complicated and I dnt want to have to worry about it when I'm going to do my burnout.

Anyone know of any other clever ways to wire a line lock?

heres a pic of the line lock and I made a heat shield to cover most of the lines that are near the headers, under hood temps get stupid hot! Darn 521 BBF is massive and puts out a lot of heat

 

on the shifter would be best i would think.

you could wire a kill switch in series with it elsewhere so you can disconnect the power to the switch when you are not at the track. It add another switch, more connections and more possible fail points, but would work.

 

bumping the line loc power button on the street won't affect anything- the only possible effect would be that it would hold brake pressure if you don't release the button right away. some people that don't know how to drive a stick use them to keep from rolling backwards when trying to pull ahead at an uphill stop sign. if you are that worried about it, just put a switch inline to kill power to the switch when you don't want to use it..

 

A dedicated in-line fuse, somewhere under the hood that's easy to get to. Disconnect when your street driving, plug it in at the track.??

 

Hmmm.... I like the ideas guys. T-top havoc I think u got wat im looking for. Makes sense instead of a switch that will do the same thing I guess. But that's one less hole drilled in my console etc.

I wonder if the button in the T-handle is a momentary switch? Before I buy Bc it seems that idk wat the button is on the Thandle but my dad thinks a momentary switch would be better.

I know solenoids take very little power but what size fuse should I use and do I need to run a relay?

 

I ended up making my own T handle pushbutton from my original T handle. I put a build thread on how i did it in the fab forum if you wanted to take a look. Cost me 4$ and about an hour to do it.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/fabr...ushbutton.html

I also wired up a kill switch to kill the Thandle pushbutton on the street. Easier than pulling a fuse. Im not using a relay as the solenoid current will be in miliamps so I'm not worried bout it.

thanks again guys for the ideas/help.

 

just wanted to update the thread. I finished it all up and took her out today for a test. The line lock is complete junk! I activated the line lock and the car wouldn't roll in drive at idle... good sign. I blipped the throttle and the car took off like the line lock wasn't even installed. tried this multiple times, I checked the solenoid and its getting 12V, and has a good ground, switch shows the LED lit up the whole time and yet it does nothing. A call to summit and the service guy said he's gotten more than a few calls from ppl having problems with summits brand line lock... prob bc the box has red chinese lettering stamped on it and the solenoid fell out of the aluminum shroud/mount the day I got it, bc its made in china. The guy said he's never gotten a call for hurst roll control valve and thats what I ended up getting.

Just warning ya don't get summits brand line lock!
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-760002

 

Please tell me that isn't copper tubing running to your front brakes.

 

just gotta ask: did you apply the brakes fully before turning on the line loc? if not, there wouldn't be any pressure for it to hold in the line...

 

Of course it's not! It's copper annealed DOT brake line from autozone... Not a lot of ppl know about it but it's stupid easy to bend/flare and never rusts or corrodes... Basically stainless without all the hassles.

 

Yup! Here's the steps.

1. Car in drive idling, press brake pedal down hard.
2. Press and hold like lock button on shifter handle (led stays lit)
3. Release brake pedal while holding button
4. Blip the throttle an rear wheels should burnout

Let everytime it would push through the line lock at anything above idle.

 

Good. I guess the color in the picture is off. Looked like regular soft copper.

 

You should have the line loc set up after the proportional valve. See http://static.summitracing.com/globa...745000(2)1.pdf

Makes a difference.

 

I Dnt have a proportioning valve. Stock master front BAER brakes are tee'd together for full pressure. Rear brakes have adjustable proportioning valve.

I thought I updated this thread. But the new hurst roll control worked like a charm.