I bought a 84 camaro with 4 wheel disc already installed . And want to replace pads rotors and calipers. Can’t find a site to order them . Since they think I have drums on the back . Anyone know where I can order them?

 

Autozone, Advance, NAPA, CarQuest, O'Reilly's, Pep Boys, Rockauto, or any other parts store.

82-88 Camaro/Firebird rear discs are all the same.

 

This is assuming it is a factory swapped assembly. OP didn't specify if it was an aftermarket kit, 89+ brakes, or Delco Morains. 9bolt or 10 Bolt?

There are also aftermarket upgrades for the pads and rotors. I used Stillen Pads/Rotors on my car. (9 Bolt, factory 88 rear Disc Brakes)

 

[QUOTE=KyleF;6310455]This is assuming it is a factory swapped assembly. OP didn't specify if it was an aftermarket kit, 89+ brakes, or Delco Morains. 9bolt or 10 Bolt?

There are also aftermarket upgrades for the pads and rotors. I used Stillen Pads/Rotors on my car. (9 Bolt, factory 88 rear Disc Brakes)[/QUOTE


it has the original rear end I believe it’s a 9 bolt 373 gears
i didn’t know that u could get rear disc from factory I assumed that my car had a conversion kit done. Good to know thanks
And I know the stores to buy car parts from lol I actually want slot drilled rotors with everything so Napa and autozone regular parts stores isn’t a option with there over priced parts.
I’ll try and call summit thanks for the replies

 

Don't call summit:

Rear Rotors
Rear Pads

When you are ready to work on them:

1. Jack the rear end up, put the axle on jack stands

2. Loosen the equalizer bar until you can remove the cables from the calipers.

3. *Do one side at a time

4. Remove the return spring, actuation arm, and seal. Hold the actuator arm to prevent anything moving while removing the nut.

5. Mark where a flat of the adjuster screw is on the caliper body so you can align the screw in the later steps.

6. Now the adjuster screws can go right into the calipers if you twist and push. So to adjust them, I put a thick washer against the caliper housing. Put a box end wrench on the screw and use the nut that was retaining the arm to retain the wrench (This allows the adjuster to spin, push the pads out, and allow the hex on the double lead screw to poke out enough to get the arm back on.)

7. Turn Clock wise to extend the pads to the rotor. Turn until you have resistance and you can't move the rotor. The pads should be set to just about dragging.

8. Check mark... if it is not lined up, you won't get the lever arm back on in the right spot. The level arm should go back over the adjusting screw and rest against the stop on the caliper, when pulled away there should be no more than 1/8" of gap between the arm and the stop.

9. If the alignment is not correct, turn the screw counter clockwise. With the double lead, this will release pressure on the pads but not pull the back. Rotate a bit further so you are starting in a different location, and turn it back in again with the washer, nut, and wrench

10. You will repeat this process until you get it right. No magic here, just have to get it right. If there is some fluid leak around the seal during the rotation of the screw, it is perfectly normal. Right is pads almost dragging the rotors and less that a 1/8” of travel between the stop and the parking brake actuation arm before it hits resistance.

11. Put seal on screw, place arm on screw, and tighten retaining nut

12. Do the other side.

13. Reassemble return springs and parking brake cables.

14. Tighten equalizer bar until the hand leaver is difficult to get to 14 clicks (I believe the Factory Service Manual calls for 125lbs. of force on the parking brake arm to achieve 14 clicks)

15. Check that the parking brake works and when released it is not holding the pads against the rotors.

16. Optional step, but I recommend it in case any air seeped in while adjusting the screws. Pull parking brake on and off multiple times and push the brake pedal down each time they are extended. Leave parking brake set and bleed the rear brakes.

17. then use the parking brake every time you park the car to keep them in adjustment.


Also, at the same time you are doing the rear brakes, upgrade the proportioning valve spring. Cheap Rear Brake Upgrade

I would also recommend some stainless hoses all around.

You can read my thread where I went to stainless lines, did a Power Stop kit upfront and the Stillen parts I provided you links to and didn't have the pedal travel I wanted. However, after a second opinion from another board member who was able to come have a look, the pedal was normal. Once I got it out on the road and did the break in... the brake performance is much improved as far as balance and ability to lock them up. I am sure if I was tracking the car there would be a lot to be desired due to fade, but for street use, it was a comparatively cheap way to have better brakes that also were visually more attractive.

By the way, Stillen sent me an email about a month or so after I received there parts just to make sure I was happy with them. I greatly appreciated their followup.

 

There was no 9-bolt in 84. 86 yes. 85, could maybe be argued, but not stock in an 84. Same with 3.73 gears, never in a 9-bolt from the factory. 3.70 maybe. 3.45 or 3.27 sure, but the vast majority are 2.77.

If the rear discs are stock equipment, and the calipers are cast iron, they're garbage. GM rear discs on thirdgens were a mess until 89 when GM finally threw in the towel and outsourced to PBR for calipers. The PBR calipers are aluminum, so they're hard to miss. The iron Delco-Moraine calipers were subject to technical service bulletins, and just generally are a million times more finicky than the later PBR calipers. It's mostly in the E-brake mechanism, but since the E-brake mech is key to the self adjustment of the iron calipers, they're basically dead weight unless you want to spend an awful lot of time maintaining them.

Make sure the calipers aren't seized, the pads and rotors are OK, and take a swing at adjusting them if the system doesn't work. Beyond that, I wouldn't waste the time trying to replace the calipers, because even under ideal conditions, they barely worked. Potentially you could replace the entire system and have the same braking you have now.

 

Right; if original to 84, it's a 10-bolt. Might have 3.73 if it was a L69 (VIN code G).

AFAIK the first use of the 9-bolt was in the 85 L69 Firebirds. Would have come with 3.70 gears. Same crappy Saginaw brakes. Camaro didn't start getting the 9-bolt until 87 AFAIK.

A BUNCH of people have reported on what an improvement the combo valve spring mod makes. I highly recommend doing that, once you get the system working as well as it can in stock form. No sense in "modifying" something that's fornicated to begin with.

 

I would get some pictures of what is on the car and post them up. The members here will be able to identify what you have.

 

My 1984 z28 is a L69 g code vin.


Installed hawks headliner

 

Looks like a fun toy to have around. The pictures I was referring to was of the actual axle and brakes.

 

Oops I didn’t mean to post all them pics on this thread lol.
I’ll take some pics of the rear end and brakes this weekend.