OK so my system needed a litle more base so I got a 10'' tube and a 2nd amp. I already had a 4ch amp for the 4 speakers in the car. Instaled the tube and the second amp. No problem. Turned it on..set the levels n' stuff...sounded good, right. Well I turned the stereo off and put the car back together. Got back in it to drive home and the deck comes on but nothing out of any of the speakers. I was not happy. Being out on the heat in Phoenix in July sux *****. Ripped the seats back out. Niether of the amp were powering up. Got my trusty volt-meter to eliminate a power wire problem. That was not it. Both amp are getting power (fuses good too). hmm....I figured it was a remote problem. (Please note that I spliced in the remote wire to the new amp from the existing wire going to the old amp using one of those handy-dandy toco looking blue splicers.) Remote wires should have a 12v charge, i believe. Turned the deck back on and tested it for any movement in the volt-meter needle and nothing..no power. My buddy was there with me and he said this happened to him too a while back after instaling a 2nd amp. He said the remote function in the deck itself actualy burned out and that he had to put the remote from the power ant. wire and it worked. Ok so I pull out the deck and conect my remote wire to the power ant wire.....nothing. I test both the remote wire and the power ant. wire with the volt-meter from the back of the deck and nothing registerd. I figure my deck may use the same circuitry for both of those functions and maybe it fried out or something (and yes Alpine decks are good. I have this deck since 98 and its been good to me...up untill now that is). OK so heres the real question. I need to find something in the dash that I can use as a remote....igniton wire or someithng, I have no idea. With the alarm under there its a colorful spagetti dinner. I dont care if even its a contant power wire that will be hook to a toggle switch...if thats even possible. Any one have this problem? Any suggetions?

 

i would run the remote to the ignition. turns on when the key is on and turn's off when the key is out<u get the idea lol>.

i think u may have put to much strain on the remote on the back of ur hu tryin to use it for 2 amps. possibly burnt it out.

 

cool...what color is that wire? If 2 amps put strain on the deck will it do the same to the ingition electronics? Should I put in a fuse for it? Thanks for the help

 

One popular method is to use your fuse box. Find a fuse that is only on when the car is on, and use that. Only problem you'll have is it won't work in the 'ACC' position, but considering our cars don't have that option, no problem. Remote cables don't need a constant/steady power supply, they are only there to tell the amp that it needs to be on. They can be over-worked though, like any other power-supplying wire. 99% of the time that wire is BLUE but some installers like to be difficult. Hope this helped, and if you have any other Q's about how to put it in PM me, I've done it quite a few times.

Bruce (90RS305)

 

use a relay to to turn on the remote wire from the deck. my remote wire turns on my amp, two volt meters and a 200amp solonoid for my dual battery setup. works perfect

 

Thanks for help. I went ahead and spliced the remote wire into the ignition wire that goes to the deck, but all it does is pop the 10A fuse for the radio under the dash. Should I try a 15A fuse or am I asking for a wire fire. Also on a side note I noticed that my deck has not been properly grounded but it seems to work fine....?(other than roasting the remote function) Why? Could this be the source of my problems?

 

Sounds like your remote wires have a short somewhere. try this, with everything off, put the + lead of your volt meter on a power source (batt, ect.) just make sure its getting power when u ground the other end..... and touch the other lead of the meter to the remote wire... if you get any reading, you have a short and your remote wire is being grounded somewhere, that would cause fuses to blow.

 

Thanks, definitive1! I found that there WAS a short in the line. I pulled the seats back out and realized that, stupid me, had put the passenger seat back in with the remote wire squashed under the seat bracket . The wire has split and was grounding to the frame. All is better now. Keep rockin'

 

I did that with my speaker wires in my old Bronco II once and you should have HEARD the sound!! Took my a while to figure it out too....