Ive been searching for an hour but didn't really find what I was looking for.

Is there anywere to run the power cord on the passenger side of the car? I was hoping im not gonna have to run it all the way to the driverside of the car. If not is it a good idea to drill a hole?

Ive only got 17ft of cord so I was hoping for a strait shot to the truck......if not then i'll just have to buy some more cord.


short an simple got get back to work

 

go thru the passenger side under the rocker panel i fit 4awg power wire under it

 

1. get a screw driver
2. take the screw driver and take off the plastic panals to the car
3. run the wire
4. put the panals back on over the wire

problem solved.

i ran my stereo this way, and i run a 4gauge wire so ... it will fit

 

I ran 4 ga wire under the driver side door sill. No problems.

 

what ever you do

RUN IT THREW THE INSIDE OF YOUR CAR!!!!

DO NOT RUN IT OUTSIDE(UNDER) THE CAR!!!!

 

lmao, no, dude, it's cool to have wires hanging under your car. Havent you ever seen the movie that need not be named with the 'off-da-hook' green eclipse that has wires hang down?

Plus, when it breaks, whenever it hits the frame you could have a spark show! WHOO!

 

Yea I know that part......I want everything hidden. It was just getting the wires to the interior part I was haveing trouble with.


Thx guys

 

Sure you can drill a hole in the firewall; it'll be hard to locate a spot, though. Look for things in the surrounding area and try to match them up from the engine compartment.

Also try to drill from the "inside" of the car towards the engine. That way you won't drill thru your dash by accident. And, use a grommet before you slide the power wire thru the hole!!

If you remove the seat (four 10mm nuts, very easy to remove) and pull the carpet back from the door sill a bit, there's a "drop" and you can fit a big fat wire right against the floorboard!

Afterthought- you might try removing your front passenger side's inner fender, and try to drill a hole near the computer wires, which go thru a bulkhead connector behind the fender. Just don't drill thru any computer wires, obviously...

 

dude if you look at the wire harness on the pass side it goes thru the fender area to the inside of the car near the kickpanel, no drilling req'd

 

I don't know what your wiring harness looks like, but every one that I've installed into one of my thirdgens used a hard plastic connector where it went through the kick panel. There's absolutely no way to get a paper clip through that connector, nevermind 8 or 4 AWG cable. Some people have had luck passing the wire through the rubber antenna plug, but I find it to be considerably easier to just drill a new hole and install a rubber grommet. Overall, the passenger kick panel is the easiest and most convenient place to bring wire into your car on the passenger side. You can run it into the engine bay right next to the wiring harness, then up the fender support almost right to the battery. It keeps it protected, out of sight, and allows for the shortest length possible.

 

yup.. what he said.


ive had luck in the past drilling out the rubber antenna grommet and using it... athough i only did that when i didnt have a grommet to use..
if you get a correct size grommet, just drill a hole behind the kickpanel there.

from the batt, along the fender, thru the kickpanel, under the door sill, back behind the sailpanel plastic bottom, and into the hatch area.

 

well i meant the big wiring loom that goes thru the pass side kickpanel

 

Like I said, none of my thirdgens have that. There's a hard plastic bulkhead, and the rubber antenna grommet and nothing else on all of my cars.

 

okay ill take a pic of what im talking about when i find my camera

 

That would be much appreciated. If there is a variation between years/models, it's always good to be aware of it.

 

ive taken the harness out of 82, 83, 84, 87, and 91 camaros, and all of them had the same STYLE of bulkhead fitting... (later ones with more wires had bigger ones)


its a plastic shell that the wires go straight thru... the wires are sealed to the shell with what looks like hardened epoxy/glue.. the bulkhead connector itself seals to the car with a foam gasket.

the epoxy makes it so you cant send anything thru it.

 

I've always seen the bulkhead connector, too.

Oh wait- are you just talking about in the engine compartment? Yep the wire loom does just poke thru between the engine compartment and the fender. But to go from the inside fender to the car, it goes thru a large square chunk of plastic. (Similar to how your lights' wiring harness goes thru the driver's side of the firewall)

That's gotta be it... because to take a picture of what we're talking about, you'd have to remove your tire and your plastic inner fender...

 

or his kick panel.

 

i cant find my camera yet but im not blowing you off... the power cable goes right thru the passenger side fender area. yea i had to remove the kickpanel to see the wire

 

hrm I'm getting another amp soon, so my total RMS wattage will be near 2500 true watts... I really wanna run "one gauge" welding cable... is that 1/0? whatever it's called, it DEFINITELY won't fit in under the plastic runners along the side of the floorboard... I've never heard bad things about putting wires under the car... I've see professional shops do this all the time... you just don't want it hanging too low, and also not interfering with any moving parts...

OBVIOUSLY you would have an in-line fuse on the power wire, so your only worry is that you don't want the wire to snag on anything physically..

 

0 AWG will fit just fine, you just need to go a little farther under the carpet with it. If you pull up the plastic door opening moldings, and lift up the carpet a little bit, you'll find a deep cavity with a loom of factory wires. You can fit 0 AWG underneath that factory loom. In fact, you can probably fit 2 or 3 of them... there's a lot of room there. This runs all the way from the kick panel to the rear wheel well.

Oh, and most welding cable has a low strand count and is not flexible enough to work well in a car environment. Pony up the couple extra cents per foot and get car-audio grade 0 AWG wire. Online it's around the same price as welding cable is locally.

 

ah I didn't pay enough attention I guess to how deep that cavity was...

on the welding cable thing... why would they use a low strand-count? and is that such a bad thing? stick welding uses so much current and voltage it's incredible... wouldn't thicker and less strands carry energy more efficiently?