just got the pictures to post, this baby hits. of course, i did the job right the first time with the proper wiring, custom built box to my specification, and fully insulated by dynamat.

 

Looks good, I dont know anything about stereos so whats that cylinder shapes object between the amp and sub? How did you make your box and how deep it is?

 

that object is a capacitor, stores electricity. i forget the exact dimensions but i figured it out to be around 1 cubic foot inside volume, actually a lil less with the size of the sub. if you are really interested in dimensions i could tell u exactly, but i dont have them off hand.

 

I'm interested to know the dimensions. Have any pics of the box not in the car?
Looks good btw!
Edit: Nice website, too. Did you use the dynamat to cover the holes in the rear quarter panel? I'm interested to know how this worked.

 

hey thanks, that website you too a look at was made with my last camaro that i totalled, but yeh i did cover everything with dynamat. if you mean the holes next to the 6x9's, yes i did cover them up but i had trouble getting behind the 6x9's to put dynamat on the actual panel. i did my best but wasn't able to get everything behind the 6x9's. towards the far rear of the car where the spare and the compartment is, i had to clean the insides really well before i could fit in the dynamat. the car in the website was actual dynamat but the camaro that i posted up with the subwoofer pictures i used fat mat, which i found on ebay. i recommend that stuff to anyone because i got 3 times more for like half the price of what i paid for a box of the dynamat and its pretty much the same material just from comparing to the real dynamat. any holes i just took the dynamat and covered up, such as in the door panels. i actually used two layers in the doors, i covered up the outter door panel, and i covered up the panel with the holes. i would recommend dynamatting any car, because you would not believe how much driving noise is reduced just by doing so.

 

I've pretty much killed road noise by putting Second Skin's Spectrum under the floors and all over the trunk, so I'm not doing it for that reason. I was just wondering if the 6x9's sounded better once you covered the holes of the rear quarter panel with mat.
I wouldn't waste my money on Dynamat

 

its not that the 6x9's sound better, they still sound the same. you just dont hear the added vibrations as much, and it keeps the sound in, so you could say u they sound better that u hear the entire spectrum of the music. for example, with my sub that i put in, i hardly hear the sub outside the car. all my buddies say that they never hear the sub outside my car except for all the rattles when the windows r up, but when i open my door its like someone just opened a can of whoop ***, haha. it sounds incredible on the inside, since i went for the sound quality sounding stereo system.

 

If you hear rattles outside the car, you need more soundproofing....
I love it that nothing rattles or vibrates outside my car, and nobody can tell I have the volume turned up unless the windows are down or the doors are open. The most important thing I noticed after installing the soundproofing was the improved range of frequency response.

 

I havent been able to stop the doors from vibrating. If i were building a race car i think the last stuff i would put in is that sound deadening material. My doors feel so much heavier when i close it!

 

Do your doors vibrate because of loose panels on the inside or on the outside? Or is the bass just that ridiculously loud that you would need concrete to do the job

 

Any ideas on how i could really stop the vibrating, i already have close to the entire inner door matted, the outside metal panel completely covered, and i even just threw on some of that where the vin numbers are on the side of the door. I still can't stop it, but i have isolated the vibrations towards the middle of the door.

 

I don't know of anything in particular that vibrates on the door when the bass hits, but there are a lot of cheap parts installed in the door that could be the culprit. Maybe you can have someone sit in the back seat and listen for the rattles while you drive if you're not able to locate them yourself.

 

This link, in addition to what you've matted will completely solve your problems. My doors sound great now...

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=124084

 

last time I checked, you were supposed to run the amp in parallel with the cap, not in series... that way power can just flow to the amp when it drains the cap... in the scenario above, it looks like this is still possible via the actual terminal on the cap, but wouldn't it be better to have a distro block with two in's, and one out... connect the main power to one input, and the cap to the other, then the amp to the output... that way the power doesn't have to travel through the cap...

if that cap was *truly* in series with the amp, that would not be a good thing.

 

i dont really know why a cap would be wired as you say it would be, because electicity flows as one, adding that distrobution block would just be an added waste of money. the whole point of adding the cap is to store energy and control the flow so there are no spikes, if you would wire it your way i might as well not even use a cap.

 

if you wire it in parallel, it will still draw power from the cap... its just that once the cap is drained it can still pull power from the electrical system...

apparently that still works because the point where the the input and output wire on that cap are making contact at the actual ring terminals... not the best method

when you have a cap for an amp in a car... it also still powers your entire vehicle... you know that right? you can even unhook your car battery and your radio will keep it's settings, as long as the cap is still hooked up right...

I just haven't seen a cap set up like that... and I'm not saying that they aren't typically set up that way...

think about it... when you drain the cap all the way by playing a constant bass note, then all the sudden you are pulling all that amperage through those little ring terminal connections...

 

This is a great thread. I will keep it in mind if I decide to make my doors quieter when I close them. I guess since mine is a 92 I have most of those "improvements" for the later 3rd gen models. I'm not sure if it's worth the work to make the doors sound like a Cadillac when they're shut. Although covering the rods with the vacuum hose sounds like a pretty easy (and inexpensive) fix.

 

It sure was, that's what makes the most noise in the door.
The whole thread is great.

 

I haven't taken off the door panel to check, but I'm pretty sure I'm hearing the metal rods inside. It's especially noticeable when the windows are down.

 

I hate it how my windows can be wobbled back-and-forth when they are half-way down...

 

just tighten up the screws in the door panel, u can adjust it so there is less play in the window. when u take the panels off there are to bolts that push against the window and if u get them tighter to the window you shouldnt have that problem as much.

 

do the bolts have teflon or something on the tips? how does it not scratch the windows?

 

Everytime i disconnect my battery i lose my settings with my headunit?

 

the bolts are connected to a little square, almost felt, tip. when you tighten up the two bolts located at the top of the panel, it presses against the window and tightens up the slack. just dont tighten it like superman or you wont be able to put your windows up or down, haha.

 

sesands, here is a better picture of the setup. unfortunately, i didnt take any pictures of the making of the box. i didnt think it would come out very nice since it was my first box.

 

I didn't think it would come out too easily. I'm surprised it comes out at all, even with the rear plastic panel removed! Like you told me, it's a good theft deterrent. With that design, it doesn't really matter what the box looks like under the top piece of mdf, since it's all hidden!
I'm guessing that the part of the box under the top mdf piece only takes up the space between the two little humps inside the well?
Anyways, to keep from stealing your thread, I was either going to make a box either like yours, or one that is rear firing, but similar. Here is a link to my thread. Any ideas are appreciated.
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=292428

Steve

 

whoa... too many Steve's around here... change your name