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As the title says, I am looking for recommendations for front dash 4x6 speakers. I will have some sort of aftermarket head unit and a smaller amp to drive some subs. I don't need world class sound and I am pretty uneducated when it comes to car stereo systems. I want to get the speakers in before I put my dash back together. Amazon reviews are no help because every single comments says the speaker sounds like God is talking to them or it is the worst product in the history of mankind.
Kenwood KFC-4675C. I have these in all 3 Firebirds. Dropped right in, no modification. I've "heard" the Camaro dash has more room, so if that's true, they should fit there as well. I think they sound pretty good with a decent amount of clarity in a Firebird. I listen to primarily symphonic black metal, so along with guitar and drums, there's all kinds of instrumentation going on and I can make out the elements of music even at high volume with very little distortion with the Kenwoods. They sound good at low volume as well. 2 cars have aftermarket radios and one has a Delco CD radio. I wouldn't say they are top of the line or bottom of the barrel, more like a upper middle. Of course, as you know, pretty much everything is made in China now, so the days of buying quality audio components are gone really. It's hit or miss with any brand.
For daily driver or weekend cruiser, I'd recommend the Kenwoods. For car stereo competition, probably not. That's the best way to put it really.
Thanks so much. You've nailed what I am looking for. I did some googling to see "rankings" and they are all over the place. 3rd gens have terrible acoustics so its nice to hear first hand accounts.
Kenwood KFC-4675C. I have these in all 3 Firebirds. Dropped right in, no modification. I've "heard" the Camaro dash has more room, so if that's true, they should fit there as well. I think they sound pretty good with a decent amount of clarity in a Firebird. I listen to primarily symphonic black metal, so along with guitar and drums, there's all kinds of instrumentation going on and I can make out the elements of music even at high volume with very little distortion with the Kenwoods. They sound good at low volume as well. 2 cars have aftermarket radios and one has a Delco CD radio. I wouldn't say they are top of the line or bottom of the barrel, more like a upper middle. Of course, as you know, pretty much everything is made in China now, so the days of buying quality audio components are gone really. It's hit or miss with any brand.
For daily driver or weekend cruiser, I'd recommend the Kenwoods. For car stereo competition, probably not. That's the best way to put it really.
Do the connectors need an adapter or modification?
Do the connectors need an adapter or modification?
Even if they do, it should be a quick spade connector. I think most speakers are sold this way. There are lots of adapters for newer cars where they use more of a traditional weather pack style connection.
Even if they do, it should be a quick spade connector. I think most speakers are sold this way. There are lots of adapters for newer cars where they use more of a traditional weather pack style connection.
They come with connectors and a length of wire.
To wire them, I used harness adapters.
Metra 72-4500. Plugs into factory harness. They worked for both front and rears on the 89 and 90. The 82 already had it's wires cut when I got it, so used the spade connectors that came with the speakers and wired direct.
Phoenix Gold Rx46cx.
I don't have these in the Camaro, but I have these in my back door of my truck and they sound great. My buddy who used to install stereos turned me onto this brand. I have JBL in the Camaro and I think the Phoenix Gold sound better. Could be the horrible acoustics of the third gen.
When it comes to speakers, I mostly go with infinity.( Made by Harmon- kardon) I have had lots of luck, especially with the 46p model. The 46p is a plate setup, with a 4" mid speaker and 1" tweeter mounted on a metal plate. I've been using them for years, in my cars, and customers cars. If you are more of a coaxial fan, infinity has a 4x6 coaxial as well, that has decent midrange and a pretty good tweeter. Search eBay or Amazon using " infinity4x6 " the price is pretty great, too.
DR.K.
When it comes to speakers, I mostly go with infinity.( Made by Harmon- kardon) I have had lots of luck, especially with the 46p model. The 46p is a plate setup, with a 4" mid speaker and 1" tweeter mounted on a metal plate. I've been using them for years, in my cars, and customers cars. If you are more of a coaxial fan, infinity has a 4x6 coaxial as well, that has decent midrange and a pretty good tweeter. Search eBay or Amazon using " infinity4x6 " the price is pretty great, too.
DR.K.
I was looking at infinity as well. Any particular model you recommend? I am ok if its coaxial, not sure a 4x6 is big enough to support a true 4 way. Thoughts?
What he's talking about is a 4x6 plate speaker where it has a separate woofer and tweeter. The Infinity has a "plus 1" woofer that is closer to a 5" speaker when compared to the typical 4".
The Kappas are a little on the expensive side ($130 ebay), but do have a built in crossover that balances the woofer and tweeter better than most coaxial designed speakers.
The new model KAPPA 64CFX has a pivoting tweeter than can help "tune" the sound a little. You can move it around to where you think it sounds best, which will be helpful considering how close it will be to the windshield.
Now, Polk makes a plate set (DB461P) with a nice soft dome tweeter that you can get for a little over $62 from Amazon The way it's designed, you could add on a separate crossover later for around $20-$25 if it sounded a little blaring in the 5Khz range.
Both the Kappa and the Polks above have soft dome tweeters that in general shouldn't sound as harsh as the hard dome type tweeters that most reasonably priced coaxial speakers have.
I haven't heard the Polk plate or the 4X6 below (DB462), but they both have a soft dome tweeters - the DB462s are running around $55 on ebay I've installed a few Kenwood Excelon speakers and for the money I think they're pretty good, but the PEI tweeters are fairly "bright/loud" - this may or may not be a bad thing depending on the location - but in the dash bouncing of the dashboard I think they may be a little much. They're not as bright as the PPTA tweeters in the KFC-4675C and the Excelons have rubber surrounds. So, if you want to go Kenwood, the KFC-X463C's are $57.50 shipped at Amazon.
Pardon the intrusion, I don't mean to hijack the thread. I like the Kappa's above, does Infinity make a similar 6 x 9 to complement the 4 X 6? I seem to be in the same position as ShiftyCapone, I want decent sound, but I am not an audiophile. BadSS seems to be well versed on this topic. Any help would be appreciated.
Pardon the intrusion, I don't mean to hijack the thread. I like the Kappa's above, does Infinity make a similar 6 x 9 to complement the 4 X 6? I seem to be in the same position as ShiftyCapone, I want decent sound, but I am not an audiophile. BadSS seems to be well versed on this topic. Any help would be appreciated.
You didn't hijack at all. In fact that was going to be my follow up question. Since the rears are easy to change I was going to wait. I just want to get these speakers in before I finish putting the dash back together. So much good info in here. Much appreciated.
I second the Infinity plate speaker suggestion. I've had other aftermarket oval 4x6 speakers, and the Infinity Kappa plate speakers I replaced the oval aftermarkets with are by far the best speaker I've installed in the stock dash location. The circle woofer in the Infinity Kappa seems to distort less, and retain better clarity at high volume than the oval 4x6 speakers I've tried previously.
If you’re going with the Kappa plates in the front, and going to be running a subwoofer, I’d use these 6x9 Metra 82-6901 adapters to fit component 6.5s ($9 at Amazon).
I’d go with the matching 6.5” components, Kappa 60csx, that are going for $200 on eBay. That combo would sound really good and would sound even better if you wanted to put an amp on them (no need to upgrade the speakers later).
If the budget was a little tight for those, I’d go with last year’s Kappa 60.11cs speakers that are running around $130 on eBay and Amazon. The difference in sound should be minimal although going with the newer model would let you adjust the angle of the tweeter to help distribution.
Another viable alternative would be running the “matching” 6x9 Kappa 93ix 3-way speakers that are going for $130 on eBay. These would put out a little more bass than the 6.5s and would be a better choice if you weren’t planning on running subs. They’ll sound good together with the plates, but as with most all coaxial speakers, they typically will not sound quite as smooth and evenly toned as the components/separates.
For a semi-budget system, the Polk DB462s and DB692s would pair up nicely. If you like things a little on the bright side, the Kenwood Excelon KFC-X463C ($57.50 at Amazon) and KFC-X693 ($75 at Walmart.com) are hard to beat for the money.
Just as an FYI, I’ve installed a few systems in these cars and there is enough room to fit an 8” speaker and tweeter in place of the 6x9’s. It’s a little tight but not that hard to do if you’re handy with a jig saw. The 6x9s will be “good enough” for most folks but the 8s are an option – especially if you’re not planning on running subs.
If you’re going with the Kappa plates in the front, and going to be running a subwoofer, I’d use these 6x9 Metra 82-6901 adapters to fit component 6.5s ($9 at Amazon).
I’d go with the matching 6.5” components, Kappa 60csx, that are going for $200 on eBay. That combo would sound really good and would sound even better if you wanted to put an amp on them (no need to upgrade the speakers later).
If the budget was a little tight for those, I’d go with last year’s Kappa 60.11cs speakers that are running around $130 on eBay and Amazon. The difference in sound should be minimal although going with the newer model would let you adjust the angle of the tweeter to help distribution.
Another viable alternative would be running the “matching” 6x9 Kappa 93ix 3-way speakers that are going for $130 on eBay. These would put out a little more bass than the 6.5s and would be a better choice if you weren’t planning on running subs. They’ll sound good together with the plates, but as with most all coaxial speakers, they typically will not sound quite as smooth and evenly toned as the components/separates.
For a semi-budget system, the Polk DB462s and DB692s would pair up nicely. If you like things a little on the bright side, the Kenwood Excelon KFC-X463C ($57.50 at Amazon) and KFC-X693 ($75 at Walmart.com) are hard to beat for the money.
Just as an FYI, I’ve installed a few systems in these cars and there is enough room to fit an 8” speaker and tweeter in place of the 6x9’s. It’s a little tight but not that hard to do if you’re handy with a jig saw. The 6x9s will be “good enough” for most folks but the 8s are an option – especially if you’re not planning on running subs.
Beyond helpful. I really appreciate the thorough reply. Looks like I need to start learning more about speaker physics.
I'd wait till you found the head-unit that you want then match all speakers to the OHM rating specified by the head unit manufacturer.
Some speaker suggestions here are 4 OHM ( pheonix, kenwoods ) and at least one of them is for a 2.5 OHM speaker (Kappa ). To get the best sound, use speakers with an OHM rating that the head unit calls for. ( most aftermarket head units call for 4 OHM. )
I'd wait till you found the head-unit that you want then match all speakers to the OHM rating specified by the head unit manufacturer.
Some speaker suggestions here are 4 OHM ( pheonix, kenwoods ) and at least one of them is for a 2.5 OHM speaker (Kappa ). To get the best sound, use speakers with an OHM rating that the head unit calls for. ( most aftermarket head units call for 4 OHM. )
Excuse my ignorance, I was under the impression that you can use lower OHM rated speakers in a system, but not higher. Case in point, my factory speakers from 1984 are 10 OHM speakers, but the average replacement speakers are 4 OHM, which seems to be the standard. I would think that you could run the 4 OHM speakers with the factory head unit, but not the 10 OHM speakers with an aftermarket head unit. Is this correct? With that, I would theorize that I could run the Kappa's with either. I hope this makes some sense. I appreciate any and all input on this subject.
I will probably run a double din bezel and some sort of touch screen. I'd likely have to run my speakers through my amp. Not sure. That is pretty far down the road. Just want to get some speakers in the dash before I button it all up. Lots of good advice here guys.
Trying to explain OHMs is not something I think I can do well enough to give you the answers your looking for; What I can say is this:
I would think that you could run the 4 OHM speakers with the factory head unit,
If you run 4-4 OHM speakers on a factory head unit the head unit will almost certainly die a pre-mature death. It was designed to power 2-4 OHM and 2-10 OHM speakers,... IN MY EXPERIENCE: most Camaros seem to have 4-10 OHM from the factory and most Pontiac seem to have 2- 10 OHM in front and 2-4 OHM in back. ( except UQ7 ! ) The FACTORY speakers used in this video were 4 stock Camaro 10 OHM speakers.
I have recently put the Polk Audio speakers mentioned above into my dash. I think they sound pretty decent for what they are.
Fit was a little tight into an 88 Iroc, but they look nice and sound pretty decent. I figure when I have an amp setup, they will come to life a little more.
I will probably run a double din bezel and some sort of touch screen. I'd likely have to run my speakers through my amp. Not sure. That is pretty far down the road. Just want to get some speakers in the dash before I button it all up. Lots of good advice here guys.
Shifty
I am in a similar boat with my 86 TA. I went with the infiniti 6.5 components in the rear and a simple 4x6 in the front. I have used the plates before but i did a basic 4x6 this go round as I was not sure what I would do regarding amps yet. I have a kenwood head unit with bluetooth and all the gadgets that works lovely. I haven't gone with a double din touchscreen because I figure it will not last long in a t top car.
if you are doing an amp for the interior speakers as well as the sub you may want to consider how you intend to route everything, especially if yiou are staying original and not cutting wires. my usual trick with amplified components is to use the factory wiring for the back speakers to send the power to the front. you then splice the back and front speakers in the dash. (head unit no longer powers individual speakers unless you add more later)
Alternatively you can run the wires for the individual speakers from the amp and figure out a good routing, the choice is yours there.
Shifty
I am in a similar boat with my 86 TA. I went with the infiniti 6.5 components in the rear and a simple 4x6 in the front. I have used the plates before but i did a basic 4x6 this go round as I was not sure what I would do regarding amps yet. I have a kenwood head unit with bluetooth and all the gadgets that works lovely. I haven't gone with a double din touchscreen because I figure it will not last long in a t top car.
if you are doing an amp for the interior speakers as well as the sub you may want to consider how you intend to route everything, especially if yiou are staying original and not cutting wires. my usual trick with amplified components is to use the factory wiring for the back speakers to send the power to the front. you then splice the back and front speakers in the dash. (head unit no longer powers individual speakers unless you add more later)
Alternatively you can run the wires for the individual speakers from the amp and figure out a good routing, the choice is yours there.
I will probably rewire the whole show. My car is naked on the inside as my swap continues. I am not too worried about the wiring since this whole car has been rewired.
I will probably rewire the whole show. My car is naked on the inside as my swap continues. I am not too worried about the wiring since this whole car has been rewired.
Shifty
If that is the case its a great opp to run really good wire instead of the angel hair that came factory. The braided wire has always done well for me to reduce electrical interference. you can run the rca cables on the driver side of the tunnel and the speaker wires going to teh front speakers on the other side. that gives a nice spacing from where the factory wires went (iirc they were along the driver door sill)
i will be running a jl 500/1 and a 300/4 but a 5 speaker amp is probably the most efficient route space wise.
Shifty
If that is the case its a great opp to run really good wire instead of the angel hair that came factory. The braided wire has always done well for me to reduce electrical interference. you can run the rca cables on the driver side of the tunnel and the speaker wires going to teh front speakers on the other side. that gives a nice spacing from where the factory wires went (iirc they were along the driver door sill)
i will be running a jl 500/1 and a 300/4 but a 5 speaker amp is probably the most efficient route space wise.
That is indeed my plan. I haven't started researching speaker wire yet though. Any recommendations on that? Any particular braided you like?
Use the Resistance in Speaker Wire Calculator: (first one down), to see what the resistance does to the wattage delivered to the speaker. Determine if you need 16,14, or 12 gauge and go pick the gauge and length of some oxygen-free copper wire at Monoprice: https://www.monoprice.com/category/c...talProducts=16
The gauge sold is to size (unlike a lot of wire out there) and the pricing is good - only thing looks like they're running low on stock right now. I haven't tried the Nibus series wires but next time I buy wire I think I'll try that.
Use the Resistance in Speaker Wire Calculator: (first one down), to see what the resistance does to the wattage delivered to the speaker. Determine if you need 16,14, or 12 gauge and go pick the gauge and length of some oxygen-free copper wire at Monoprice: https://www.monoprice.com/category/c...talProducts=16
The gauge sold is to size (unlike a lot of wire out there) and the pricing is good - only thing looks like they're running low on stock right now. I haven't tried the Nibus series wires but next time I buy wire I think I'll try that.
I was going to say something similar but I have noticed OFC wire doesn't corrode as fast. I also distrust a lot of wire companies, they seem to have more insulation than wire and claim an improper gauge. The braided wire did help with EM in my last firebird. That was 12 years ago so some things could have changed. For sure I would run the wires from the amp back to the head unit via center console routing versus the door sill.
In all the car installations I've done, I've never had any noise attributed speaker wire - In those with noise, I've always traced it to bad RCA cables. Obviously people have experienced issues and if they want to run a twisted paired speaker cable, some of my friends use Cat5 networking cable because they can get it cheap through their work or "free". The Cat cables can be stranded or solid wire, so be sure to get stranded - it works better for audio use. Watch the gauges also - you'll want at least 24guage.
Below is a link to a 50ft pre-made 24 gauge stranded wire cable for $6.29 or 12.6-cents per foot - 100ft for $12.24 or 12.24-cents per foot https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=14263
You can cut off the ends and use 2 of the 4 twisted pairs for the positive and the others for the negative. Using four of the 24gauge wires twisted together for one speaker connector is the equivalent to using one 18gauge wire. So if 18gauge would be sufficient for your wiring needs you can get twisted wiring on the cheap.
Cat6 is a little more expensive than Cat5 and a little bulkier, but if it has a rubberized insert that separates each pair for even more isolation capability. 50ft of 24guage is $8.79 and 100ft is $15.29 https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=13218
They make some with 22 gauge wire that would end up being the equivalent to a 16gauge, but its hard to find in anything other than bulk rolls, but other companies might have it in relatively inexpensive pre-made lengths. So if interested, shop around.
In all the car installations I've done, I've never had any noise attributed speaker wire
Same here,...... either the speaker worked or it didn't, or; it was intermittent due to a bad plug/connection. There's LOTS of 'noise' on Power circuits and lack of a good ground might cause it too.
For years thought the 3rd gen wiring was a little thin; then I bought a 4th gen ! The radio wiring in my 95Z gen is about 1/2 the gauge / size of the radio wiring in my Thirdgens.
Sorry I kind of late to the party. but I've always had good luck dealing with Crutchfield. Their prices are competitive, the sales people are very knowledgeable and will hook you up with materials that allow a professional looking installation without hacking up your nice interior.
Old thread I know, but I just wanted to confirm the Kenwood Excelon KFC-463C 4x6s fit in the Camaro dash. Had to space them up quite a bit on the driver's side, but they do fit under the dash pad.
The Kenwood Excelon KFC-X694 also fit in the sail panels, but they are definitely at the maximum depth.
Sorry I kind of late to the party. but I've always had good luck dealing with Crutchfield. Their prices are competitive, the sales people are very knowledgeable and will hook you up with materials that allow a professional looking installation without hacking up your nice interior.
I went with Crutchfield's recommendation too. I like the Kicker rears they suggested, but the Pioneer TS-G460 for the front not so much. Maybe it's not the speakers fault as everyone says they all sound bad against the windshield. This is my first third gen so nothing to compare it to.
I went with Crutchfield's recommendation too. I like the Kicker rears they suggested, but the Pioneer TS-G460 for the front not so much. Maybe it's not the speakers fault as everyone says they all sound bad against the windshield. This is my first third gen so nothing to compare it to.
The Pioneer TS-G460 sound better if you put a bass blocker on them, a lot of 4" & 4x6" speakers come with bass blockers installed on the speakers but those Pioneers do not. After installing the bass blockers I was able to turn the volume up quite a bit without distortion. We sell adapter plates so you can use 4" speakers in the dash and that gives you a lot more options, I think currently there are very few 4x6 speakers that will fit. 1982-92 Camaro/Firebird 4" Dash Speaker Adapters
I also wasn't happy with the Pioneer 4x6 speakers and changed to Rockford Fosgate 4" speakers. They have been working very well and have been popular, we started selling them after installing them in my car. 1982-92 Camaro/Firebird Rockford Fosgate Dash Speakers
Last edited by scfbody; Aug 2, 2025 at 09:36 AM.
Reason: website update
We just launched a new Screaming Chicken website, adding more products currently but updated our dash speaker selection yesterday. We currently have Kenwood, Rockford Fosgate, Polk and AudioControl to choose from for 4" speakers - we tested all 4 by installing them in a 1983 and a 1991 dash to make sure they will fit on 3rd gens. We also have aluminum dash speaker adapters, we have these made locally. The aluminum prevents the adapter from distorting since the dash can get a lot of sun. We will be working on rear speaker adapters next to make it easier to install different sized speakers. We also have found one 4x6 speaker that fits in our testing, Kenwood KFC-4675C. Link below to all our dash speakers and adapters: 1982-92 Camaro/Firebird Dash Speakers – Screaming Chicken
