remote starters on carb'd engines...
Sure - why not?
The only problem you would encounter is cold start. You'd need to prime the carb to start. You would need to setup the system to send 2 quick voltage signals to the throttle kicker solenoid (AC solenoid) in front of the throttle linkage.
OR...
You could get a remote start/door unlock/lock remote kit. Setup the remote start as any FI car a setup the door lock button to the throttle kicker. Press twice to prime the carb. Start the car, and press again in a minute or two to knock the idle down. Of course this assumes you have QJet. If you have a Holley or whatever, they sell AC compensating solenoids for those carbs too.
There ya go!
The only problem you would encounter is cold start. You'd need to prime the carb to start. You would need to setup the system to send 2 quick voltage signals to the throttle kicker solenoid (AC solenoid) in front of the throttle linkage.
OR...
You could get a remote start/door unlock/lock remote kit. Setup the remote start as any FI car a setup the door lock button to the throttle kicker. Press twice to prime the carb. Start the car, and press again in a minute or two to knock the idle down. Of course this assumes you have QJet. If you have a Holley or whatever, they sell AC compensating solenoids for those carbs too.
There ya go!
Last edited by Marc 85Z28; Sep 6, 2002 at 10:22 AM.
I think someone would need to test the AC solenoid to see if it can handle the power needed to simulate pumping the accelerator pedal. I'm sure that GM didn't intend for it to move like that.
Last edited by flyway190; Sep 6, 2002 at 01:23 PM.
Sure can. That's what it is designed to do - Increase the amount of throttle opening to compensate for the AC compressor load. When it's activated, it's just enough throttle movement to get a small shot from the accelerator pump in the carb. When voltage is applied, you'd have a very hard time pushing that solenoid plunger back in - believe me.
Awhile back I had a problem with my choke sticking - or so I thought. Turned out the solenoid was sticking. The wire was arcing from another wire and applying constant voltage. Took me a week to finally chase down. The solenoid method WILL work.
Awhile back I had a problem with my choke sticking - or so I thought. Turned out the solenoid was sticking. The wire was arcing from another wire and applying constant voltage. Took me a week to finally chase down. The solenoid method WILL work.
Last edited by Marc 85Z28; Sep 6, 2002 at 05:31 PM.
I went out and played with mine, and I don't think it will work the way we want it to. Here's what I observed- If you turn the air conditioning on while you are in idle, it won't increase the idle speed until you tap the throttle. Apparently the solenoid provides just enough work to get the plunger to its full-out position without any restrictions. At that point something engages, like a clip or electromagnet, and holds it in place. That way when you tap the throttle, the restriction is removed and the solenoid pushes the plunger out and it locks into place. When the throttle comes back down, it hits the locked plunger and holds that idle speed. If the A/C is turned off (12V disengaged), whatever was engaged releases, and the throttle pushes the plunger back down. We want it to push the throttle by itself, and it won't do that.
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How many wires does your solenoid have coming out of it? Mine only has one.
Most fuel injected models have something similar to what you're talking about, an IAC motor that pushes the throttle back and forth according to what the ECM tells it. Supposedly some carbureted models had a similar ISC motor, but I'm not sure which ones. I think it has 3-4 wires coming out of it. I bet that could be rigged up so that it would function as an idle stop and a throttle kicker/stepper without an ECM. Pretty expensive though, I think the unit costs about $90 or so. It might be cheaper to build one or get one used.
Most fuel injected models have something similar to what you're talking about, an IAC motor that pushes the throttle back and forth according to what the ECM tells it. Supposedly some carbureted models had a similar ISC motor, but I'm not sure which ones. I think it has 3-4 wires coming out of it. I bet that could be rigged up so that it would function as an idle stop and a throttle kicker/stepper without an ECM. Pretty expensive though, I think the unit costs about $90 or so. It might be cheaper to build one or get one used.
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automatic, camaro, carb, carbd, carbureted, carburetor, carburetors, engine, kicker, put, remote, start, starters, system, throttle





