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remote starters on carb'd engines...

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Old Aug 24, 2002 | 01:03 AM
  #1  
Nate9's Avatar
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remote starters on carb'd engines...

I was wondering if this would work or is it only for fuel injected engines.


THANKS FOR ALL YOU HELP
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Old Sep 5, 2002 | 04:13 PM
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From: colorado
Car: 84 Camaro, 90Firebird, 87Transmaro
Engine: custom 5.7, 5.0 , 6.5 Turbo diesel
Transmission: 4spd, auto, auto
Axle/Gears: 2.77 posi
i would like to know that too
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Old Sep 5, 2002 | 04:46 PM
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Depends on your set-up I suppose. I don't see why you couldn't make it work with a stock q-jet.

Last edited by flyway190; Sep 5, 2002 at 04:50 PM.
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Old Sep 6, 2002 | 10:20 AM
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From: MD
Sure - why not?

The only problem you would encounter is cold start. You'd need to prime the carb to start. You would need to setup the system to send 2 quick voltage signals to the throttle kicker solenoid (AC solenoid) in front of the throttle linkage.

OR...

You could get a remote start/door unlock/lock remote kit. Setup the remote start as any FI car a setup the door lock button to the throttle kicker. Press twice to prime the carb. Start the car, and press again in a minute or two to knock the idle down. Of course this assumes you have QJet. If you have a Holley or whatever, they sell AC compensating solenoids for those carbs too.

There ya go!

Last edited by Marc 85Z28; Sep 6, 2002 at 10:22 AM.
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Old Sep 6, 2002 | 01:13 PM
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I think someone would need to test the AC solenoid to see if it can handle the power needed to simulate pumping the accelerator pedal. I'm sure that GM didn't intend for it to move like that.

Last edited by flyway190; Sep 6, 2002 at 01:23 PM.
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Old Sep 6, 2002 | 05:28 PM
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Sure can. That's what it is designed to do - Increase the amount of throttle opening to compensate for the AC compressor load. When it's activated, it's just enough throttle movement to get a small shot from the accelerator pump in the carb. When voltage is applied, you'd have a very hard time pushing that solenoid plunger back in - believe me.

Awhile back I had a problem with my choke sticking - or so I thought. Turned out the solenoid was sticking. The wire was arcing from another wire and applying constant voltage. Took me a week to finally chase down. The solenoid method WILL work.

Last edited by Marc 85Z28; Sep 6, 2002 at 05:31 PM.
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Old Sep 6, 2002 | 08:26 PM
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I went out and played with mine, and I don't think it will work the way we want it to. Here's what I observed- If you turn the air conditioning on while you are in idle, it won't increase the idle speed until you tap the throttle. Apparently the solenoid provides just enough work to get the plunger to its full-out position without any restrictions. At that point something engages, like a clip or electromagnet, and holds it in place. That way when you tap the throttle, the restriction is removed and the solenoid pushes the plunger out and it locks into place. When the throttle comes back down, it hits the locked plunger and holds that idle speed. If the A/C is turned off (12V disengaged), whatever was engaged releases, and the throttle pushes the plunger back down. We want it to push the throttle by itself, and it won't do that.
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Old Sep 8, 2002 | 04:08 PM
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Maybe yours is different than mine? I know some where even vacuum controlled.

Maybe you could fab up a door lock actuator on a bracket?
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Old Sep 8, 2002 | 07:06 PM
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How many wires does your solenoid have coming out of it? Mine only has one.

Most fuel injected models have something similar to what you're talking about, an IAC motor that pushes the throttle back and forth according to what the ECM tells it. Supposedly some carbureted models had a similar ISC motor, but I'm not sure which ones. I think it has 3-4 wires coming out of it. I bet that could be rigged up so that it would function as an idle stop and a throttle kicker/stepper without an ECM. Pretty expensive though, I think the unit costs about $90 or so. It might be cheaper to build one or get one used.
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