best quadrajet replacement
Thread Starter
Supreme Member

Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,408
Likes: 2
From: Western Maryland
Car: 82z28
Engine: 406
Transmission: th350
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Yeah ive read that she should be adequate. Ive also read they are a pain to learn. So maybe you can help diagnose whats going on and give me better direction as to whats going on.
The car seems to idle ok but it seems as if i have to give her the gas pretty hard to get her to go (then it seems to get the gas all at once and floods out) in any case it cuts out.
This may be unrelated but the choke got stuck open the other day. The car was sitting for 5 years or so before my purchase back in october. I have just now been able to really work on her, and seeing as how its still not yet spring i dont know how often i will be able to until it warms up.
Can you give me a few pointers on how to clean it up (with carb on the car) possibly if that is the problem.
VacuumIssue?? Possibly some hints on tips of where to look for vacuum leaks? Im not too familiar with cars but im big on trying to do as much as i can myself so i can learn.
Also on an on related matter i think the cat has died, cuz it wasnt smellin to healthy, but i dont know if that would make the engine cut off after giving her gas.
I must say you have been very responsive in prior posts and i appreciate your help
The car seems to idle ok but it seems as if i have to give her the gas pretty hard to get her to go (then it seems to get the gas all at once and floods out) in any case it cuts out.
This may be unrelated but the choke got stuck open the other day. The car was sitting for 5 years or so before my purchase back in october. I have just now been able to really work on her, and seeing as how its still not yet spring i dont know how often i will be able to until it warms up.
Can you give me a few pointers on how to clean it up (with carb on the car) possibly if that is the problem.
VacuumIssue?? Possibly some hints on tips of where to look for vacuum leaks? Im not too familiar with cars but im big on trying to do as much as i can myself so i can learn.
Also on an on related matter i think the cat has died, cuz it wasnt smellin to healthy, but i dont know if that would make the engine cut off after giving her gas.
I must say you have been very responsive in prior posts and i appreciate your help
Member
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 177
Likes: 0
From: Alabama
Car: 1984 Z-28
Engine: L69
Transmission: 700-R4
I'd heard that once a cat dies, driveability/starting issues become a problem. If you've got a bolt-on cat, then it might be easy to take it off and just check out the inside of it to see if it's clogged. Then again, taking it off might not be so easy. My car had spent a lot of its life in Indiana (before I bought it), and all the snow and salt pretty much welded the bolts to the flanges. I tried to unbolt the cat when I was putting my headers on; the bolts didn't budge AT ALL. We used an impact set to 650 ft/lbs and broke a u-joint; the bolts were that enfused. Maybe you'll have better luck than me.
Checking for vacuum leaks is easy. Just start the engine and let it idle normally. Use a can of carb cleaner and spray around the base of the carb and the intake manifold near the cylinder heads. If you notice the engine stumble or the rpms drop real low, you've found your vacuum leak.
You can also use the carb cleaner to clean out the carb while the carb is still on the engine. Just spray it down into the primaries and secondaries. Start up the engine, and while the engine is running spray a little more cleaner down the carb. Once you get it running (as in, being able to feed it fuel without it dying), you could try running some fuel injector cleaner through the gas to help clean out any more crap that might still be there.
Since you're not too familiar with cars, I'll go ahead and tell you that you can do these things without doing any harm to the engine (if a lack of experience leads to a confidence problem). There's a lot of stuff I don't do because my confidence is low simply because I have little experience working with engines. It's good that you're eager to learn, though. Knowledge is power.
Checking for vacuum leaks is easy. Just start the engine and let it idle normally. Use a can of carb cleaner and spray around the base of the carb and the intake manifold near the cylinder heads. If you notice the engine stumble or the rpms drop real low, you've found your vacuum leak.
You can also use the carb cleaner to clean out the carb while the carb is still on the engine. Just spray it down into the primaries and secondaries. Start up the engine, and while the engine is running spray a little more cleaner down the carb. Once you get it running (as in, being able to feed it fuel without it dying), you could try running some fuel injector cleaner through the gas to help clean out any more crap that might still be there.
Since you're not too familiar with cars, I'll go ahead and tell you that you can do these things without doing any harm to the engine (if a lack of experience leads to a confidence problem). There's a lot of stuff I don't do because my confidence is low simply because I have little experience working with engines. It's good that you're eager to learn, though. Knowledge is power.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member

Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,408
Likes: 2
From: Western Maryland
Car: 82z28
Engine: 406
Transmission: th350
Axle/Gears: 3.23
The car idles "ok" in park and if you hit the gas in park you can rev it up and she doesnt shut off.
but if you put it in gear and give her gas she'll die...what causes the difference from when shes in park and when the engine actually has to pull the load?
am i on the right track with it being a carb related problem?
but if you put it in gear and give her gas she'll die...what causes the difference from when shes in park and when the engine actually has to pull the load?
am i on the right track with it being a carb related problem?
Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 264
Likes: 1
From: SillyCon Valley, CA
Car: 83 Z-28 (Original owner)
Engine: 305 CC-carb
Transmission: Richmond 6-speed, Rear:3.73
Vacuum leaks cause the engine to idle fast. Spray the outside of the carb with WD-40 to keep the choke from sticking.
Might need new Cap/Rotor, Spark plugs, and O2 sensor after sitting for 5 years. Carbs get blamed for a LOT of ignition problems.
Might need new Cap/Rotor, Spark plugs, and O2 sensor after sitting for 5 years. Carbs get blamed for a LOT of ignition problems.
Member
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 177
Likes: 0
From: Alabama
Car: 1984 Z-28
Engine: L69
Transmission: 700-R4
Originally posted by 83_1/2 L69
Might need new Cap/Rotor, Spark plugs, and O2 sensor after sitting for 5 years.
Might need new Cap/Rotor, Spark plugs, and O2 sensor after sitting for 5 years.
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Thread Starter
Supreme Member

Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,408
Likes: 2
From: Western Maryland
Car: 82z28
Engine: 406
Transmission: th350
Axle/Gears: 3.23
all the ignition crap (plugs,wires,coil,module,cap & rotor) is new, replaced that. gas is fresh.
o2 senser hasnt been replaced...(suggestions, tips, how tos ?)
What exactly should the idle speed be on an lg4? it does idle high at start up for a while but it seems to simmer down after it warms up for a while.
o2 senser hasnt been replaced...(suggestions, tips, how tos ?)
What exactly should the idle speed be on an lg4? it does idle high at start up for a while but it seems to simmer down after it warms up for a while.
Member
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 177
Likes: 0
From: Alabama
Car: 1984 Z-28
Engine: L69
Transmission: 700-R4
Originally posted by blyth18md
it does idle high at start up for a while but it seems to simmer down after it warms up for a while.
it does idle high at start up for a while but it seems to simmer down after it warms up for a while.
Member
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 177
Likes: 0
From: Alabama
Car: 1984 Z-28
Engine: L69
Transmission: 700-R4
mine will be anywhere from 1500 to just above 2000 rpm in fast idle (depending how cold it is), and normal idle at operating temp is probably 750 in neutral and 600 in park.
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