Boy, This Rochester Looks Complex
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 515
Likes: 0
From: Brooklyn, N.Y.
Car: '83 Firebird S/E
Engine: The Chevy 305. with carburator
Transmission: 700R-4
Boy, This Rochester Looks Complex
As you know, I need to replace the TPS.
I have purchased the sensor, as well as a Standard Motor Products carb kit. It is apparent that if I stick to replacing just the sensor, accelerator pump rubber, and top gasket; the job is simple.
The trouble is that I think it is time to do a rebuild. The task looks daunting, even though I am a reasonably decent mechanic.
A blow-up diagram is not enough for something that tears down into so many levels. Is there an easily obtainable book out there for this task, one that others actually have found useful?
Thank You,
Seth
I have purchased the sensor, as well as a Standard Motor Products carb kit. It is apparent that if I stick to replacing just the sensor, accelerator pump rubber, and top gasket; the job is simple.
The trouble is that I think it is time to do a rebuild. The task looks daunting, even though I am a reasonably decent mechanic.
A blow-up diagram is not enough for something that tears down into so many levels. Is there an easily obtainable book out there for this task, one that others actually have found useful?
Thank You,
Seth
Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 10,763
Likes: 4
From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
it's not quite as complex as the blowup leads to believe. You don't necessarily have to disassemble every piece. (for example the choke bits...)
I have rochestor carbs, by Doug Roe. It's ok, but the section on CC carbs isn't very large. That blowup should do you, just take things apart and label them. ie, blue rubber ring goes ABOVE metal ring (or something like that...) power piston is ABOVE gasket, etc....
I have rochestor carbs, by Doug Roe. It's ok, but the section on CC carbs isn't very large. That blowup should do you, just take things apart and label them. ie, blue rubber ring goes ABOVE metal ring (or something like that...) power piston is ABOVE gasket, etc....
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 45
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
A rebuild kit will have step-by-step instructions that will walk you through that blow-up diagram.
Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 10,763
Likes: 4
From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
well, he said he has the rebuild kit, and that's probably the blowup he's talking about....
it isn't totally clear about what goes on in what order, but as you take it apart, it should be clear, just make notes.
the book I have doesn't really walk through a rebuild (well, I guess it does...), but it also has ways to modify it...
So if you are going hi-perf in the future with that carb, i'd say grab the book.
it isn't totally clear about what goes on in what order, but as you take it apart, it should be clear, just make notes.
the book I have doesn't really walk through a rebuild (well, I guess it does...), but it also has ways to modify it...
So if you are going hi-perf in the future with that carb, i'd say grab the book.
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 45
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Oops, I was reading too fast again.
The order is the number assigned to the parts. #1, gasket, #2, screw, etc. You take them off in that order and put it back together in reverse order.
Assuming a Standard Motor Products kit is the same as every other kit I've seen in the last 35 years.
The order is the number assigned to the parts. #1, gasket, #2, screw, etc. You take them off in that order and put it back together in reverse order.
Assuming a Standard Motor Products kit is the same as every other kit I've seen in the last 35 years.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 515
Likes: 0
From: Brooklyn, N.Y.
Car: '83 Firebird S/E
Engine: The Chevy 305. with carburator
Transmission: 700R-4
Thank you all. I may grow the ***** to do this by next weekend. Raining now.
The mixture solenoid still works. Should I change it?
And will I need the 'D' screwdriver, if I leave the solenoid alone, but still do a full rebuild?
Should I get a new float 1st?
Nice .pdf.
Seth
The mixture solenoid still works. Should I change it?
And will I need the 'D' screwdriver, if I leave the solenoid alone, but still do a full rebuild?
Should I get a new float 1st?
Nice .pdf.
Seth
Last edited by NoTransistors; Sep 25, 2005 at 10:33 AM.
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 515
Likes: 0
From: Brooklyn, N.Y.
Car: '83 Firebird S/E
Engine: The Chevy 305. with carburator
Transmission: 700R-4
The impression that I get is that the TPS requires a small standard screwdriver for adjustment (once the tamper-plug is removed), while most other adjustments do require the special-tipped screwdriver.
I am always willing to learn.
Seth
I am always willing to learn.
Seth
Most of the E4MEs and E2SEs I've seen had a 2˝mm hex to adjust the TPS, although I believe I recall some very early ones that may have had a slotted screw.
OTC-7667 and KD-T2776 are good tools for a fairly resonable price (less than $15). If you're really lucky, you may be able to find a socket that will fit, but it will need to have an extremely thin wall.
OTC-7667 and KD-T2776 are good tools for a fairly resonable price (less than $15). If you're really lucky, you may be able to find a socket that will fit, but it will need to have an extremely thin wall.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post










