So the winter is here... and my car cuts off when it is cold. It will start and idle fine for a minue or two the start chugging and eventually shut off.. I have to sit iin side and give it a little gas to stay runing, which is a real pain in 20 degree weather. is this a enternal problem ojre jsut a common problem with carbs?
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If its a carb'd motor, then you probably need to adjust the choke a little richer for the weather.
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vortech35091RS
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- Join DateSep 2005
- LocationYuma, Arizona
- Posts:272
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- Car1991 camaro RS
- Engine350,vortech heads,zz4 cam,3:73 posi trac,edelbrock carb,wiend stealth intake,raven mufflers,hooker supercomp shorty headers and y-pipe.
- Transmissionth700r4
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HAHAHA, I know this is off the topic, but i had to comment on your display message "My lug nuts require more torque then your honda makes" haha, awsome man I love it!
thanks man... compliments od www.projectcamaro.com they got all sorts of ***** jokes on there... go check it out
Supreme Member
You have the stock cc- qjet carb?
here's a picture of my non-cc carb, almost the same, so you'll get the idea.
carb
ok, so, you have 3 adjustments basically:
1) fast idle speed
2) choke richness
3) choke valve opening
i'm not sure what your problem is exactly, but here's what you do:
1) fast idle speed: in the picture, the red arrow. That's a phillips screw, so when you first cold start your car, that controls the RPM it should go up to. Once the car is hot, the screw is useless. What you can do, is blip the throttle from cold, then start it, and hopefully your car should go up to say 1500RPM, if not, try screwing this IN to increase.
2) choke richness: I'm guessing this may be part of your problem. The black thing there is the choke adjustment, unscrew the 3 yellow arrowed screws (if they are rivets, that means the carb has never been rebuilt, so you must drill these out and replace with screws...). Just loosen the screws, then you can turn the black part. Following the dark green arrow (CCW) IIRC makes it richer. See how this carb has the wire basically at the very bottom? you'll probably have it closer to the bottom right to make it run ok.
3) Choke valve opening: dark blue arrow. When the car is warm, this should be open like in the pic. When you go to your car in the morning, and it's cold, look at that first, it should be wide open from the night before. Then blip the throttle, check it now, it should have snapped shut. (adjustment #2 controlls how long this stays shut in the cold, etc.) If it doesn't close, then adjust #2 until it does. Then get someone to start the car, you'll notice the vacuum can pulls the green rod (under the purple arrow), towards the front of the car, and pulls the choke valve open slightly. Like enough to fit a 1/8"-3/16" drill bit in, barely. (don't drop the drill bit!). If it's not pulling it open enough, adjust the phillips screw that the purple arrow points to.
Remember, all of these adjustments must be made in the first 30s the car is cold started, after that it starts being too warm to be useful. It'll probably take a few days of cold starting to get it just right. If you need more info, search for posts by Damon, he's posted this before, as well as Five7kid.
Hope that helps.
here's a picture of my non-cc carb, almost the same, so you'll get the idea.
carb
ok, so, you have 3 adjustments basically:
1) fast idle speed
2) choke richness
3) choke valve opening
i'm not sure what your problem is exactly, but here's what you do:
1) fast idle speed: in the picture, the red arrow. That's a phillips screw, so when you first cold start your car, that controls the RPM it should go up to. Once the car is hot, the screw is useless. What you can do, is blip the throttle from cold, then start it, and hopefully your car should go up to say 1500RPM, if not, try screwing this IN to increase.
2) choke richness: I'm guessing this may be part of your problem. The black thing there is the choke adjustment, unscrew the 3 yellow arrowed screws (if they are rivets, that means the carb has never been rebuilt, so you must drill these out and replace with screws...). Just loosen the screws, then you can turn the black part. Following the dark green arrow (CCW) IIRC makes it richer. See how this carb has the wire basically at the very bottom? you'll probably have it closer to the bottom right to make it run ok.
3) Choke valve opening: dark blue arrow. When the car is warm, this should be open like in the pic. When you go to your car in the morning, and it's cold, look at that first, it should be wide open from the night before. Then blip the throttle, check it now, it should have snapped shut. (adjustment #2 controlls how long this stays shut in the cold, etc.) If it doesn't close, then adjust #2 until it does. Then get someone to start the car, you'll notice the vacuum can pulls the green rod (under the purple arrow), towards the front of the car, and pulls the choke valve open slightly. Like enough to fit a 1/8"-3/16" drill bit in, barely. (don't drop the drill bit!). If it's not pulling it open enough, adjust the phillips screw that the purple arrow points to.
Remember, all of these adjustments must be made in the first 30s the car is cold started, after that it starts being too warm to be useful. It'll probably take a few days of cold starting to get it just right. If you need more info, search for posts by Damon, he's posted this before, as well as Five7kid.
Hope that helps.
Supreme Member
re-read your post, if it starts up fine at first, chances are #3 is ok, and #1 is ok. But check them all for best performance 
its not a stock... its a edlebrock 4 barrel
Supreme Member
well ****, that was a waste of breath then.
Mention that damnit.
Mention that damnit.
well it could be good for someone who has the same problem and are looking for the answer mr glass is half empty person! lol... sorry bro
five7kid
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When you ask a question, you need to specify what you're running.
When you answer a question, you need to know what configuration you're addressing.
Having said that, the only thing that doesn't really apply is the pull-off adjustment. Other than that, it's the details of where the adjustments are and which way to turn them that differ on the Performer. Those details should be available on the Edelbrock website.
When you answer a question, you need to know what configuration you're addressing.
Having said that, the only thing that doesn't really apply is the pull-off adjustment. Other than that, it's the details of where the adjustments are and which way to turn them that differ on the Performer. Those details should be available on the Edelbrock website.
Senior Member
Sorry to hijack this thread but I do have a stock non cc q-jet and have the same problems, I did all that was posted here yet the car still wont stay running in the cold. The only thing I didnt do was turn the choke coil counter clockwise, well i did but then my car wouldnt start at all, the choke valve wouldnt even stay open long enough to keep the car running, just the initial vacuum pulling it open, then the car dies. I then turned it clockwise just so i could get my car to start.
I went to start the car and blipped the throttle when it was cold as suggested to close the choke plate, but its not closing, the fast idle cam was staying on the lowest step, i seriously cannot get this thing setup for the cold.
When adjusting the choke richness, how do you know when you have it at the right spot? I turned it till it opened up the choke slightly,clockwise, then tightened it.
I bought the carb as a rebuild, it was not taken off my car, although my old one had an electric solenoid of some sorts near the throttle arm and a plunger in it that did something that i am unaware of, the rebuild does not have this and is this affecting it in any way?
Sorry for the long post
I went to start the car and blipped the throttle when it was cold as suggested to close the choke plate, but its not closing, the fast idle cam was staying on the lowest step, i seriously cannot get this thing setup for the cold.
When adjusting the choke richness, how do you know when you have it at the right spot? I turned it till it opened up the choke slightly,clockwise, then tightened it.
I bought the carb as a rebuild, it was not taken off my car, although my old one had an electric solenoid of some sorts near the throttle arm and a plunger in it that did something that i am unaware of, the rebuild does not have this and is this affecting it in any way?
Sorry for the long post
Supreme Member
Well alright, looks like someone did find this useful...
when the car is sitting cold, in the morning and you first walk up to it, get someone to tap the throttle, (or just pull the throttle arm) and watch the choke plate, if it doesn't snap shut, then loosen the screws on the choke, and turn it until the choke blades are just barely closed.
the fast idle cam should be on the highest step when you cold start it, and after running it for a while, it should go onto lower steps. If it only goes onto the low step when you first start it, on a cold start, that's the same problem as the previous paragraph explains. Set your choke richness first. I can snap a pic of where mine is set if you need it.
try that first, then post back.
Quote:
although my old one had an electric solenoid of some sorts near the throttle arm and a plunger in it that did something that i am unaware of, the rebuild does not have this and is this affecting it in any way?
that's the air conditioning kicker. if you have AC, when you turn it on, it'll kick up your idle. no biggie...although my old one had an electric solenoid of some sorts near the throttle arm and a plunger in it that did something that i am unaware of, the rebuild does not have this and is this affecting it in any way?
when the car is sitting cold, in the morning and you first walk up to it, get someone to tap the throttle, (or just pull the throttle arm) and watch the choke plate, if it doesn't snap shut, then loosen the screws on the choke, and turn it until the choke blades are just barely closed.
the fast idle cam should be on the highest step when you cold start it, and after running it for a while, it should go onto lower steps. If it only goes onto the low step when you first start it, on a cold start, that's the same problem as the previous paragraph explains. Set your choke richness first. I can snap a pic of where mine is set if you need it.
try that first, then post back.
Senior Member
I think i got it to where it should be at now, thanks for the help
