help cleaning vac lines
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 160
Likes: 0
Car: 1984 Camaro Z28
Engine: 305
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 4th gen auburn 3.42 disc
help cleaning vac lines
okay so here is the deal, im new to carb, and i need this thing cleaned up, emissions are no longer on the car, i want to remove everything that is not needed. I want to see hardly any lines.
here is what i am dealing with



can anyone help me out?
diagrams are very much so welcome. the good ol' MS paint and the red line word wonders.
Thanks, in advance.
Matt
here is what i am dealing with



can anyone help me out?
diagrams are very much so welcome. the good ol' MS paint and the red line word wonders.
Thanks, in advance.
Matt
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 43
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
There are some vacuum diagrams on the FAQ forum, including some Canadian models.
Bundling and possibly relocating some things is about all you can do.
Bundling and possibly relocating some things is about all you can do.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 160
Likes: 0
Car: 1984 Camaro Z28
Engine: 305
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 4th gen auburn 3.42 disc
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 20,981
Likes: 11
From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
Re: help cleaning vac lines
You need the plumbing associated with the vacuum advance, TCC vacuum switch, brake booster and PCV system. You might as well keep the Thermac system, since you can't see it with the air cleaner on anyway. You could lose the evap canister, but it's really not hurting anything and the factory setup has the PCV and TCC switch plumbed through it.
Nevermind the TCC part. I thought I saw the switch for it in your pics but now I see you have a T5.
Nevermind the TCC part. I thought I saw the switch for it in your pics but now I see you have a T5.
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 43
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
I would start with the wiring. You've got spark plug wires going all over the place, and primary wiring strung around bare. I got some wire looms from Made For You that mount to the valve cover bolts, they really help clean things up. I used universal wires that were trimmed to length so they could be routed cleanly. That's a big start.
You still have the EFE TVS on the thermostat housing. Since you have headers, you don't have an EFE valve. That line needs to be plugged at a minimum, but you could get rid of both of those TVSs since you don't need the vacuum advance retard, either. Just get a plain thermostat housing.
You do need to get that PCV valve mounted in the valve cover. Can't tell for sure from the picture, but it looks like the driver's side cover is mounted backwards. You could get a cap that allows the PCV valve to be mounted into it, but that may be more hassle than necessary.
You seem to have a weird mix of 3rd gen factory, older factory, and aftermarket stuff on there. That isn't necessarily a problem, but you need to understand what the different parts are supposed to do, which will allow you to eliminate stuff you don't need, and clean up what remains. I would keep the charcoal canister - it's a functional piece that doesn't hurt anything. Otherwise, you don't have much of what so many people would consider "smog junk".
You still have the EFE TVS on the thermostat housing. Since you have headers, you don't have an EFE valve. That line needs to be plugged at a minimum, but you could get rid of both of those TVSs since you don't need the vacuum advance retard, either. Just get a plain thermostat housing.
You do need to get that PCV valve mounted in the valve cover. Can't tell for sure from the picture, but it looks like the driver's side cover is mounted backwards. You could get a cap that allows the PCV valve to be mounted into it, but that may be more hassle than necessary.
You seem to have a weird mix of 3rd gen factory, older factory, and aftermarket stuff on there. That isn't necessarily a problem, but you need to understand what the different parts are supposed to do, which will allow you to eliminate stuff you don't need, and clean up what remains. I would keep the charcoal canister - it's a functional piece that doesn't hurt anything. Otherwise, you don't have much of what so many people would consider "smog junk".
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Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 160
Likes: 0
Car: 1984 Camaro Z28
Engine: 305
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 4th gen auburn 3.42 disc
Re: help cleaning vac lines
I would start with the wiring. You've got spark plug wires going all over the place, and primary wiring strung around bare. I got some wire looms from Made For You that mount to the valve cover bolts, they really help clean things up. I used universal wires that were trimmed to length so they could be routed cleanly. That's a big start.
You still have the EFE TVS on the thermostat housing. Since you have headers, you don't have an EFE valve. That line needs to be plugged at a minimum, but you could get rid of both of those TVSs since you don't need the vacuum advance retard, either. Just get a plain thermostat housing.
You do need to get that PCV valve mounted in the valve cover. Can't tell for sure from the picture, but it looks like the driver's side cover is mounted backwards. You could get a cap that allows the PCV valve to be mounted into it, but that may be more hassle than necessary.
You seem to have a weird mix of 3rd gen factory, older factory, and aftermarket stuff on there. That isn't necessarily a problem, but you need to understand what the different parts are supposed to do, which will allow you to eliminate stuff you don't need, and clean up what remains. I would keep the charcoal canister - it's a functional piece that doesn't hurt anything. Otherwise, you don't have much of what so many people would consider "smog junk".
You still have the EFE TVS on the thermostat housing. Since you have headers, you don't have an EFE valve. That line needs to be plugged at a minimum, but you could get rid of both of those TVSs since you don't need the vacuum advance retard, either. Just get a plain thermostat housing.
You do need to get that PCV valve mounted in the valve cover. Can't tell for sure from the picture, but it looks like the driver's side cover is mounted backwards. You could get a cap that allows the PCV valve to be mounted into it, but that may be more hassle than necessary.
You seem to have a weird mix of 3rd gen factory, older factory, and aftermarket stuff on there. That isn't necessarily a problem, but you need to understand what the different parts are supposed to do, which will allow you to eliminate stuff you don't need, and clean up what remains. I would keep the charcoal canister - it's a functional piece that doesn't hurt anything. Otherwise, you don't have much of what so many people would consider "smog junk".
yea i think ill need to pick up a new thermostat housing so i can get rid of EFE TVS valves and lines.
And yes the PVC valve is not mounted, i need to pick up a new grommet for the valve covers, and also need to get new hose for the PVC valve, thats why thats not complete there.
I didn't do the motor swap, but it used to have a V6 in the car...Somewhere along the life of this car it got a 305. The 305 wont be staying in for long, but i just want to screw around learn a bit about the carb, everything else i am fine with. Ive built motors before, just they were fuel injected, and not carbed.
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 898
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From: Texas
Car: 1987 Camaro
Engine: 5.7
Transmission: 700R4
Re: help cleaning vac lines
can someone cirlce what it is in the pic?? I have headers on mine and if thats not needed im gonna get it out of there.
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
From: Alberta, Canada
Car: 1984 firebird
Engine: v8 5.0L 305
Transmission: 5 speed
Re: help cleaning vac lines
I'd think about washing it. Just for a start, it’s amazing what a wash can do for your car and engine compartment, then rerouting/tidying wiring first. Then vacuum.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 160
Likes: 0
Car: 1984 Camaro Z28
Engine: 305
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 4th gen auburn 3.42 disc
Re: help cleaning vac lines
i would if the 305 was staying in there. I know in saying that why do i care to clean it up, well the cars been sitting for a few years, and a lot of lines are useless and broken. So it needs to be done either way.
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 43
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 598
Likes: 2
From: Hampton, Virginia
Car: 87 Camaro Z-28
Engine: 305 LG4 w/ E4ME carb
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73
Re: help cleaning vac lines
the TVS switch in this post is pictured in the bottom picture - look for the end of the radiator hose where it connects to engine; that funny looking vacuum switch has 2 lines. the switch should open under 80degrees (F) IRRC. when it opens it allows vacuum between the carb and a vacuum-valve thing (name?) on a stock exhaust manifold near oil dip stick. the idea is that hot gas is available to carb to heat up the inside of the carb early and get it working more efficient sa fast as possible. but headers don't have that vacuum-valve (name?) so TVS switch and 2 vacuum lines could go
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 43
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
The pictures on this thread don't show sensors, it shows thermo vacuum switches in the thermostat housing.
The "early fuel evaporation" valve, EFE on the vacuum diagrams, doesn't warm up the carb. It warms up the intake plenum floor so fuel doesn't condense in the intake manifold.
The "early fuel evaporation" valve, EFE on the vacuum diagrams, doesn't warm up the carb. It warms up the intake plenum floor so fuel doesn't condense in the intake manifold.
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