I'm seriously considering the idea of ditching my ccc carb from the L69 for a pre ccc one. I'm looking at Q jets from Pontiacs and Chevys and etc. Question number 1. Will a Q jet from a Pontiac 400 fit on a 87 LG4 manifold? I know all Q jets used the same basic casting so I'd imagine it would.

2. My car stalls out after the warm up idle, after the warm up of around 2,000 RPMs it will drop to curb idle and stall out after a second or two. I'm thinking of chasing down the idle screw near the throttle cables or the vac leak but if neither one fixes the issue then I'm considering going old school. If I do go old school can I keep my electrical HEI distributor or will I have to to to a vac advance HEI distributor? If I do need to go to a vac advance, which one will work in the 87 LG4?

Finally, what I'm gonna do is check my manifold for leaks there, then replace a bunch of vac lines, and mess with the screw. But if all that doesn't work I'm just about out of things to try hence the idea of going pre ccc carb. If I do go pre CCC carb am I correctly assuming I can ditch all the emissions stuff? (charcoal canister, AIR, O2, blah blah blah). Thanks in advance guys. Sorry if some of this stuff seems repetitive. I'm jumping among a whole bunch of cars and some of the old symptoms got thrown out the window, so I'm not dealing with a high idle but rather a car that will not idle but runs strong at part throttle. The high idle was a warm up as Five7Kid and a few others told me earlier.

 

This is not a good move. There is nothing a non-CC q-jet can do that a CC q-jet can't do when given the chance to operate as designed.

Fix what's wrong with what you have.

 

So you would go ahead and take apart the intake to check for leaks there, mess with the screw, and look for any more leaks? I know it might be overkill to do what I posted about but the thing is I don't know if the main screws have been messed with. If they have as I may have said I don't have the equipment to set it right. I doubt my timing is an issue because it runs ok in the warm up cycle, and as far as I can tell it runs strong and is very responsive to any throttle you give it.

 

If it's anything outside of the carb, you could replace the carb and still have the same problem.

If the problem is with the carb itself, it wouldn't be that expensive to find a professionally rebuild CC q-jet, compared to what it would take to go non-CC.

 

Yes, but you'll need to get a bracket to relocate the TV cable
mount. Look for a q-jet from a Chevy engine, and take the pump to carb steel line too, the you won't be tempted to use a rubber line on the pressure side of the pump (not all Q jets have the fuel line inlet in the same location, so the stock line probably won't work).

You'll need a vacuum advance HEI, and that is another reason to take a q-jet from a chevy engine, you can use the distributor from that engine too (BBC or SBC).

Yeah you can ditch the emissions stuff, but you can do that and still keep the CC stuff anyways (not legally though...).

 

Bethany who is on here and on Earlythirdgen.com said she wasn't sure but it could be the TPS sensor going bad. Considering the fact that I've rebuilt or replaced just about everything ignition and starter wise that was actually not a bad idea. I mean if my distributor had bad corrosion on all its parts no doubt the carb could have the same problem with its electrical points. After all it did sit on a shelf in an ordinary garage (not climate controlled) for five years, as did all the other electrical parts. I'm not ruling out switching to a Non CC carb but 57kid did have a good point, if the problem is not in the carb then switching carbs is not going to fix it.

Does anyone know where I can find all the sensors for the carb? If I am going to change sensors I'm going to go ahead and rebuild it too.

 

I have it registered as a Historic here in NJ, with historic cars in theory they are not your daily driver (yes its not my daily driver so I'm not breaking the law there, I have a Subaru Outback for the daily grind). If they don't get driven everyday and are over 25 years old they are exempt from inspection. Doesn't mean that the police won't pull you over if you have a busted windshield. So technically because its registered as a historic I'm not breaking any state laws. However, because the emissions is federally mandated, yea its not legal. Also mileage is dependent on your insurance policy.

 

The TPS is fairly easy to troubleshoot if you have an analog multimeter. By probing the TPS with an analog multimeter and running the throttle through ranges from idle to WOT, you should see smooth movement on the analog multimeter. Any jumps or breaks shown on the analog multimeter, with a good connection to the TPS, would indicate the TPS is faulty.

 

I understand, I don't have any emissions stuff either, since my Camaro isn't my DD, it turned 25 years old last week, and there are no inspections in my county. I assumed you'd know, I just don't want to accidentally give illegal advice to an unknowing person one day.

 

Which of the four points do you put the probes in? And I'm assuming that you need to have it disconnected from the wiring harness to do that.

 

B and C (center and bottom).

You can either probe the wires (done with ignition on and checking for voltage), or disconnected (checking for resistance).