Argh!, what happened to the days just replacing the choke pull off or giving the 'ol choke stove a twist. Now seriously, what I've been confused about is this fast idle problem that comes and goes. By fast idle I mean 1500 to 2000 rpms,engine plenty warm! (hot too). If it doesn't clear up while I'm driving, when I stop I gotta turn'er off in Drive or it'll diesel forever. I'm suspecting my electric choke and here's why. I've noticed when this fast idle occurs my choke valve(throttle plate) isn't strait up. If I hold it strait up and give it a little gas it'll idle down. Also when cold I'll turn the key on to give it 12v ,prop the throttle to free it up , give it a few minutes and nothing happens. I've checked the power to it and it definately gets the 12volts. Is something inside that choke housing bad or not allowing it to heat? Should and can this be replaced? Do I need to look for other things? Thanks for any and all replies!

 

By the way, its a Q-jet in an 86 lg4

 

yeah,
tighten up your throttle return spring and look for any vacuum leaks.

tapping the gas to lower idle when choke is already open is a sign of throttle sticking open partially.

run-on after turning off the ignition is a sign of a vacuum leak.

worse comes to worse, just remove the choke.

 

But the choke isn't open all the way . I have to remove the air cleaner lid, force it open all the way, then throttle it down. Springs are good, linkage looks good, and vacuum hoses all look good. I failed to mention it ,but I did all these things before I suspected the choke. What I 'd like to know is if I tested this choke properly?

 

Sounds like the choke thermostat isn't warming up. If you have an ohm meter, try checking from the power terminal to ground - I'm not sure what the resistance value should be, but if it's open, then you know for sure that's where the problem is.

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82 Berlinetta, orig V-6 car, now w/86 LG4/TH700R4. 2.93 limited slip. Cat-back from '91 GTA, Accel HEI SuperCoil. AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Daily driver, work-in-progress (LG4 w/'87 LB9 block, ZZ3 cam and intake, World 305 heads, Hooker headers & y-pipe, 3" Catco cat & 3" cat-back).
57 Bel Air, my 1st car. 0.030 over 396, 9.7 CR forged TRWs, Weiand Action+, Edelbrock 1901 Q-Jet, GK 270 cam, Magnum rockers, Jacobs Omnipack, 1-3/4" Hedders & 3" Warlock header mufflers, TH400 w/TCI Sat Night Special conv & Trans-Scat shift kit, 3.08 8.2" 10-bolt w/Powertrax, AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Best 15.1/94.6 @ 5800' Bandimere.

 

my cc q-jet does the exact same thing. I took the choke thingy on the side off and it stays open all the time. It still idles at aleast 1600. The dealer around here wants $500 to rebuild the carb, and you can't really do it yourself.

 

spray the links with carb cleaner. The little post the coke linkage is on has must likey gotten coated with **** and is binding.

 

Yes, you can do it yourself. You need a couple of meters that will run you about $50 for both, a kit that will run you about $35, a gallon of carb cleaner, compressed air to blow out passages, and a clean place to work and lay out everything as you take it apart and put it back together.

Doug Roe's or the Haynes book on the Rochester Q-jet wouldn't hurt, either, but the instructions in the kit are pretty good.

BUT, your problem probably isn't something that a kit would solve (unless a thorough cleaning is needed). Most likely you need a $15 choke thermostat and the high idle adjusted.

 

Your choke might be shot, but have you tried adjusting it? It may just need adjusted.


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82 camaro--original steering wheel, brake/gas pedals, seats--everything else modified
82camaro

 

Putting a new electric choke on the carb in the morning.I know the rivets have to come off , but does the carb have to be removed to drill those rivets out. If so will I need a new carb gasket? Also are there any mods that I can or should do to help the performance of my stock engine?