When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Should be wired like this, this shows a green/white to cylinder head temp switch. Could ground at the relay to test the relay. The knock sensor lead could of been swapped if it’s a blue wire.
Yup, sounds like you have some connectors plugged onto the wrong things.
The fan switch wire is dk grn w/ wht stripe. Blue is probably the knock sensor. They are the same connector type and are physically close together, therefore easily plug onto the wrong device.
I fixed the issue with the wires (green/white is now on the correct sensor) and replaced the fan sensor and the fan still doesn't engage unless the A/C is turned on. I've let the temp get up to 240 before shutting it down. Any other suggestions?
I fixed the issue with the wires (green/white is now on the correct sensor) and replaced the fan sensor and the fan still doesn't engage unless the A/C is turned on. I've let the temp get up to 240 before shutting it down. Any other suggestions?
thanks for your help
sensor as in coolant temperature? Or cylinder head temp switch ?
This is what I used to fix that problem, from Hawk's. Even the OEM replacement switches have been known not to turn on until over 240 in some instances. Before I installed this I had just grounded the green/white lead. I figured it was better for the fan to run all the time than wait until it over heated to kick on.
Chances are the switch is coming on at the right temp but the temp gauge is showing the wrong value. If you want a lower one get a 1989 turbo trans am switch 210 on 195 off.
wells sw555 can remove the old temp sw put in in some water on the stove with a vom hooked up and thermometer in the water see if you can get it to close. You would see continuity from center to body.