I've been having a problem which SEEMs to be classic ignition module woes.

Sometimes it will star and run ... get somewhere.. get towed home as it won't restart, cranks OK, but no spark at the plugs.

I have three ignition modules from no start issues over the past few years, near zero miles on each. Took out the current module, and took all three to Advance Auto for testing. Of course all check out fine at the store and OUT OF THE CAR. Replaced current unit with a past one. used good heat sink cream. It started, drove to work OK, got towed home again. No restart after sitting for a few hours.


Fiddled with connections, nothing odd noted. It started again, went around the block, came home running, turned off. Restarted OK next morning, reset base timing to 6* . turned off for night. Of course, next morning, no start... no spark.


12.8 volts at coil. no spark out of coil to center of distributor.. Coil ohms check on as nominal all around . 12.7 volts at module connector from coil.

So it think it's Ignition Module related. I've checked continuity on all wires leading to/ coming from module. Can't find any shorts.


HOW do I test the wires IN PLACE to see where a missing signal might be? Four wires from the ECM to/from the module, and two to the coil. Does the ground have to go back to the computer? If I test by grounding elsewhere.. do I risk blowing something out?

What am I looking for and How to I find it?

 

Try unplugging your 4pin connector and checking for spark while cranking, this ignores the pickup coil and just relies on the ignition coil and module. If you have spark after unplugging the connector, replace your pickup coil inside your distributor. If not, its either your coil, module, or connector between the two.

Also if you still aren't getting spark, check for spark between your distributor and ignition coil. If you have spark now, its the cap/rotor.

 

As per instructions above, I checked for spark in the following manner with a spark tester connected between the HEI coil and ground.

1)everything connected, including Accel 300 digital box.... no spark across tester.

2) disconnect Accel box, returned to stock configuration.... no spark across tester.

3) pull 4 wire connector, keep 2 wire in place... no spark across tester.

4) check voltage at gray HEI coil connector from key 13.13 volts

5) check voltage through coil at end of two wire connector to module...13.03 volts

replaced ignition module with new Delco piece. Reset all wiring to stock connections with spark tester in place...

you guessed it... still no spark across tester..

6) replaced HEI coil with spare... still no spark across tester.

No semblance of a spark anywhere.

So is the problem that the distributor's magnetic coil is not producing an output signal?

What's going on that a distributor with 1200 miles on it is not producing an output?

If that is the case, if I attach my multimeter to the output of the coil and spin the motor over, what setting on my multimeter do I need to see if a pulse is being emitted.

 

Sounds like the pickup coil is bad (open). Measure the resistance of the pickup coil, should be in the 800 - 1000 ohm range. This is between the green and white wires of the 2-pin connector that goes into the back of the ICM.

Although since the issue is intermittent (or was), the coil may measure OK, then not OK a few minutes later. I would tap on the distributor body with a plastic mallet or screwdriver handle during taking the measurement.

RBob.

 

That sounds like an easy way (albeit a pain to get to) to test static resistance, and I will do that. How do you test with the motor spinning to produce a pulse?

What setting on meter and expected values?

 

OK, so back to our story...I opened the Dizzy back up to get to the internal coil. This is an Accel 60109 with the blue/white magnetic coil.

Taking the Ohm meter to the two leads (orange and purple in this case) I initially got nada... apparent open circuit. To be safe, (what the hell did I have to lose at that point) I took out the two retaining screws, removed it and tried again. I would get varied inconsistent readings, most times open, no reading and a few times spurious readings from .4k to 22k ohms then open again. Tried several times as it was hard to keep all the probes in contact.

Thinking of the pulse aspect of it, I flashed a thick Allen wrench quickly, close to the center, back and forth slowly, quickly. made no difference, open is open.

I have a new replacement coil , Acdel part 31086 on order from Summit as I report back.

At least I know that everyone of you out there has also suffered your own share of humbling and frustrating issues and got past them with the kind help from our unsung heros of this forum. My sincere thanks to all for present and past generosities given out, and undeserving kindnesses received by me.

Thanks, Dave

(p.s. this this doesn't work, stay tuned later this week to the 11:00pm news and watch for "Crazed man shoots engine with deer slugs")

 

You may all find these testing procedures handy for these types of issues.
Download a copy
http://www.northidahooffroaders.com/...n/TPIcodes.pdf

 

Thanks for the link. I've saved a copy to my computer.

 

I've replaced the magnetic inductance coil (trigger coil) on the distributor. It fired right up first time. After several start/warm up/restart cycles later... no problem evident.

( Life is wonderful again, and I'll be able to stop drowning kittens in the river now, as I no longer have to ease my frustration.)

 

Dam glad we saved a cat! Next time you feel the urge to kill a cat I'll give you my cell number, call first OK?

Oh and your running again!