I have a vortec headed 350. MAF with stealth ram intake. 30lb injectors. 3:73 gears 700r4. Stock ecm and harness originally 305tpi. Have moates chip burner and tuner pro.
what bin do I start with to get up and running?
thanks ahead of time.

 

Aujm recurve the timing retard some injector flow setting single and double fire. Fan switch change and voltage offsets for whatever injectors you have .

 

Ok, I'm brand new to chip burner/tuning. Is that $6e, 32e. Xdf, ads, ...Or just download the one that says aujm and call it a day.?
thanks again

 

It’s $6e better mask to work with can get everything to get started at gearhead efi

 

Do I have to have a wide band o2 sensor.? Is there anyone thay makes a chip for this setup or is it better to make my own with the moates system I have and tunerpro.?

 

For wot it’s better to have a wideband.

 

I also use the WB for start-up/open loop tuning. I find my 305 LB9 and 383 TPI like it around 12.0 to 12.8 on warm-up. I set open loop (OL) exit only if engine is above 140Deg.F (60Deg.C) for CT. That makes the warming-up idle smoother (less fuel economy!) You have to make sure A.I.R. is disabled though (full time diverted) to get accurate readings at start-up and open loop warm-up.

In fact the AFR gauge is a must. Specially when you swap the engine with different heads and intake system. You don't want to be lean. MAF tables are tuned by GM based on OEM Bosh MAF.

If you start with AUJM You need to change:
-injector size (0x3D7 and 0x3D9) from 22.36 to 30
-Injector PW Voltage correction (0x3B5) and offset (0x3C6) according to your injectors data sheet
-If you have aluminum vortec heads with 180 Deg.F thermo, I would lower fan on/off. AUJM is set at 225Deg.F. (0x30D, 0x30E, 0x30F and 0x310). I set mine at 190Deg.F with my 383 Vortec aluminum heads thermo 180.
-If you have headers, make sure your 02 sensor is as close as possible in the collector. Might want to covert to heated 02 sensor. Don't do the half *** 02 sensor install on just 1 cylinder.
-If you don't have a knock sensor you have to disable it otherwise it will pull timing and send SES code. Also, the knock sensor from 305 and 350 are different. The ESC module is also different from 305 to 350. That could cause some problem if you mismatch them.
-SA initial is set at 6* in AUJM, you have to set it at what ever your initial timing is set at now (0xC1). I assume you are still using the HEI from the TPI.
-You have to zero out the ALDL SA adder at 0x23
-I would disable the HWY mode AFR and SA. It's inaccurate and could lean you out at cruise. My personal preference.
-I would disable SAM (Stay Alive Memory I believe). It's a pain in the butt and inaccurate. I will ensure a consistent startup and warm-up period in open loop. Enter 128 at 0x4D8, 0x4D9, 0x4Da, and 0x4DB to disable.

That's all I can think of for now.

My preference though... would go aftermarket EFI system. Way easier to tune and more expertise around.

 

Here is AUJM from Gearhead site http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Inj...Information-6E
Also $6E hack

 

Wow, a lot of good info here, im going to get started on all of that. Thank you all.
Just as a point of reference, the car was 305 tpi originally. I swapped in a crate 330hp gm vortec 350 with the stock tpi and all. The only mod was the scoggin dickey tpi base plate for the vortec heads and a generic hypertech 350 chip. The car ran fine for years like that but only had the current tune issues when the stealth ram was installed. I've been reading the stealth ram requires big changes in the tune for all the extra airflow.

 

Since you mentioned that. The Stealth Ram with its shorter runners will most likely wake your engine up at higher RPM. That means your volumetric efficiency (VE) will be better than the TPI set-up at higher RPM. Depending on how high you rev it, you might max out the MAF capacity. It can only handle 255 g/sec. So for your 350 at, let's say 80% VE, with air temperature between 32-86 DegF, you would max out at between 5200-5600 rpm. A way around it is to tune PE AFR Table (0x617). But that definitely requires an AFR gauge.

 

Ok, finally got it running ok. It had an intake pop and just was not very smooth. I had to advance the base timing all the way to about 20deg and it went away. However it is running super rich now (burning eyes horribly) and I have the afr gauge and it is around 11.5 at idle but seems like it jumps up to 18 when you hit the gas.
what can I tweak to fix that?

 

What was done to compensate for injector size and what injectors are being used ?

 

30 lbs injectors
I changed the injector scalar to 30

 

D3 ?

 

Both

 

Well this is difficult to get a answer

 

What do you mean D3? Sorry for my ignorance I'm very new to tuning

 

What injectors do you have ? Bosch D3 ?
if you do put in correct offsets for whatever injectors you have .
if D3 low pw table zero out. Then if still rich start to change maf tables

 

Yes bosch d3 30lbs