Choosing new cam(tuning)
Choosing new cam(tuning)
Well af\ter talking to Compcams techs and getting two totally
diff.custom grind cam recomendations then being told they may not have a roller core until jan/1/03 or later I called summit tech
and they recomended magnum 230/230 560/560 single patern cam w/110 lobe sep. Does anybody feel I will have any tuning issues with that much duration? or the 110 lobe?
And do you feel its a good choice over my ZZ9 212/226 483/520
112 sep.?
Im using 7730 SD.
diff.custom grind cam recomendations then being told they may not have a roller core until jan/1/03 or later I called summit tech
and they recomended magnum 230/230 560/560 single patern cam w/110 lobe sep. Does anybody feel I will have any tuning issues with that much duration? or the 110 lobe?
And do you feel its a good choice over my ZZ9 212/226 483/520
112 sep.?
Im using 7730 SD.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 2,844
Likes: 4
From: Maryland
Car: 2005 Subaru STI
Engine: 153ci of Turbo Power!
Transmission: 6-Speed
That cam should give you some NICE power. 230 cams are not that big of a deal when it comes to tuning. I have one (230/245). The 110 lobe shouldn't be too bad either. My only concerns would be the following ...
1) No vacuum. Trust me - I know. Brakes - what brakes.
2) Single Pattern? If your cylinder head exhaust port doesn't flow that much then you will want a dual pattern cam. What's your I/E ratio?
Tim
1) No vacuum. Trust me - I know. Brakes - what brakes.
2) Single Pattern? If your cylinder head exhaust port doesn't flow that much then you will want a dual pattern cam. What's your I/E ratio?
Tim
Thanks Tim,
Well the first cam they advised to me was a 224/236. then the second tech guy said he never would have made that big of a split and he said 230/236,I thought that sounded better also
but I see now that yours also has a big split. HMMMM
Do I wait till janauary or later for the custom grind or do the summit single?
Here are some flow #'s FROM Canfields site:
VALVE LIFT .100 .200 .300 .400 .500 .600 .700
Intake Port 72.0 145.0 201.0 247.0 258.0 259.0 259.0
Exhaust Port 53.0 107.0 143.0 175.0 190.0 200.0 203.0
I currently have the heads off now and plan to have them pocket ported and hope to beat these #'s.
Thanks for help.
Well the first cam they advised to me was a 224/236. then the second tech guy said he never would have made that big of a split and he said 230/236,I thought that sounded better also
but I see now that yours also has a big split. HMMMM
Do I wait till janauary or later for the custom grind or do the summit single?
Here are some flow #'s FROM Canfields site:
VALVE LIFT .100 .200 .300 .400 .500 .600 .700
Intake Port 72.0 145.0 201.0 247.0 258.0 259.0 259.0
Exhaust Port 53.0 107.0 143.0 175.0 190.0 200.0 203.0
I currently have the heads off now and plan to have them pocket ported and hope to beat these #'s.
Thanks for help.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 2,844
Likes: 4
From: Maryland
Car: 2005 Subaru STI
Engine: 153ci of Turbo Power!
Transmission: 6-Speed
I chose a big split pattern because I plan to eventually use this cam with a Vortech Supercharger. You don't want a big split. Either the 230/230 or the 230/236 will be fine.
Tim
Tim
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 812
Likes: 0
From: Red Deer, Canada
Car: 89 Shortbox
Engine: 350 Vortec
Transmission: 700r4
Not at all, but you have to remember that the computer works on the basis of trying to toggle around the stioch ratio of 14.7 to 1. My cam (222 226 .500 lift) won't hit stioch below 1100 rpm, a cam like that might not hit stioch below 1300 rpm. I'm running the 747, so all I did was change the rich and lean window values to a lower O2 voltage (about 150mv lower @ low air flow). This fixed the "mega rich" idle conditions. This is because unburnt air is gonna be pushed through the cylinder at low rpms, no matter what, so by telling the ecm to toggle at a leaner O2 reading (lower voltage) you can acutally get a pretty good mixture being burnt. So just be aware that the ecm is going to respond to a big cam by dumping too much fuel in at low rpms.
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Hey Guys ,
Wanted to let you know that I put car back together this weekend and Dropped Lower VE table by 15% and dropped fuel pressure some and have Idle @ 128 625 RPM so I guess I wont have any problems hitting stoich but ill know for sure soon as I Find an 02 for my WB (NAPA says they are on factory back order)
Also I took car for about a 20 mile drive and no problems at all with brakes,thanks for the help.
230/230 560/560 X 110 lsa
Wanted to let you know that I put car back together this weekend and Dropped Lower VE table by 15% and dropped fuel pressure some and have Idle @ 128 625 RPM so I guess I wont have any problems hitting stoich but ill know for sure soon as I Find an 02 for my WB (NAPA says they are on factory back order)
Also I took car for about a 20 mile drive and no problems at all with brakes,thanks for the help.
230/230 560/560 X 110 lsa
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 812
Likes: 0
From: Red Deer, Canada
Car: 89 Shortbox
Engine: 350 Vortec
Transmission: 700r4
128 does not mean stoich at all, (it jsut means that the desired O2 voltage has been met) at idle I was at 128 but running pig rich originally, and with a wide band - they only work when the engine isn't purging unburnt air out the exhaust at idle (like your cam is probably doing up to 1300 rpm).
How does the car run now?
How does the car run now?
Hmmm,I was scared you were going to say that.
Thats what I was scared of.
Well right now it idles fine seems to smell a little rich but deffinetly not to bad,has good response and drives pretty ok.
mind you I have done minimal work to the VE table right now
since the weather has been bad here (snow/rain/salt)
but with the quick guess work I have done thus far its not bad at all.
So I guess the only way to tell how it is at idle is to check plugs ,Right?
Thats what I was scared of.
Well right now it idles fine seems to smell a little rich but deffinetly not to bad,has good response and drives pretty ok.
mind you I have done minimal work to the VE table right now
since the weather has been bad here (snow/rain/salt)
but with the quick guess work I have done thus far its not bad at all.
So I guess the only way to tell how it is at idle is to check plugs ,Right?
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 812
Likes: 0
From: Red Deer, Canada
Car: 89 Shortbox
Engine: 350 Vortec
Transmission: 700r4
Plugs checks could work,
The method that seemed to work for me was to set the idle toggle O2 voltage lower and lower until it started to run worse (I think it was somewhere aournd 300mv) ,and the stock setting was around 550 mv (once the idle bias voltage is added). So since I could smell unburnt gas with the stock setting, and the low setting I used caused engine to run poor and weak. I simply picked a number in the middle... like 425mv (includes idle bias).
Its a rather crude way of doing things but it worked well, good milage at low rpms, and nore more gas smell at all.
Again I'm speaking of the 747 code, but the 730 must have O2 voltage tables.
The method that seemed to work for me was to set the idle toggle O2 voltage lower and lower until it started to run worse (I think it was somewhere aournd 300mv) ,and the stock setting was around 550 mv (once the idle bias voltage is added). So since I could smell unburnt gas with the stock setting, and the low setting I used caused engine to run poor and weak. I simply picked a number in the middle... like 425mv (includes idle bias).
Its a rather crude way of doing things but it worked well, good milage at low rpms, and nore more gas smell at all.
Again I'm speaking of the 747 code, but the 730 must have O2 voltage tables.
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 812
Likes: 0
From: Red Deer, Canada
Car: 89 Shortbox
Engine: 350 Vortec
Transmission: 700r4
Yeah I have GMPCM (the most complete editor I've found) and I couldn't really find anything about O2 voltages, but there must be something....maybe under a strange name.
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From: Chasing Electrons
Car: check
Engine: check
Transmission: check
Here are the idle values (for maskid $8D):
The non-idle tables follow closely behind.
RBob.
Code:
L8496: FCB 136 ; 600 mvdc, FAST o2 R/L THRES AT IDLE L8497: FCB 136 ; 600 mvdc, UPPER ZERO ERROR o2 AT IDLE L8498: FCB 128 ; 570 mvdc, LOWER ZERO ERROR o2 AT IDLE
RBob.
Hey guys,
I mailed T/C about no 02 toggle voltages and here is what ive got.
"Hi Tom,
Attached is a zipped file containing an updated $8D Definition File, along with the current FormLib file. I've added the fast and slow O2 rich/lean idle parameters to the constants table for you to experiment with. Try it out and let me know how you make out with it.
To install the updates, unzip these files into you Tuner subdirectory, over-writing the old files."
Tuner cat is great!
I mailed T/C about no 02 toggle voltages and here is what ive got.
"Hi Tom,
Attached is a zipped file containing an updated $8D Definition File, along with the current FormLib file. I've added the fast and slow O2 rich/lean idle parameters to the constants table for you to experiment with. Try it out and let me know how you make out with it.
To install the updates, unzip these files into you Tuner subdirectory, over-writing the old files."
Tuner cat is great!
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 812
Likes: 0
From: Red Deer, Canada
Car: 89 Shortbox
Engine: 350 Vortec
Transmission: 700r4
Ya .. I've got them to change a couple def files now, he's pretty good about it. You know that they have software on there site that lets you edit the def files. Its actually pretty easy.
I know I want to start but am a little intimidated right now,but then again i was about prom burning before i started that.
Thats actually the reason I mailed TC because when Rob gave the address I had no clue what to do with it.
Thats actually the reason I mailed TC because when Rob gave the address I had no clue what to do with it.
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