I have a '92 RS with a 305TBI and the 8746 computer. Which one of these chips on this web-page should I get?


http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/sto...tegoryId=11227

 

The 2732A, or 27C32, will work.

 

Thanks Grumpy.

 

Don't bother with those 2732's.
http://www.moates.net/
Buy the G2 flash chip adaptor with .60" spacing. Then grab a couple AT29C256 chips. That combo will replace the 2732 chips with a flash chip. If you price out the cost of a UV eraser needed for the 2732's you'd see why I'm recommending the flash adaptor upgrade. Not to mention the time it'll save vs waiting a few minutes with the 2732s. I only use the 2732 on a few vehicles anymore because they're so flaky (old) and annoying to erase.
It'll cost you $42 plus shipping, not bad right!

 

What he said, you'll save your self alot of time and money going with the flash chips. I buy my 2732's off of ebay when they are on there in bulk, only about half work, but then again out of the 4 new ones I bout only 3 worked. Trust me when I say the flash chips are much easier to use.

 

I've spent to much time making sure every step I take into chip burning is the right one. Everywhere I look, read or email says the best way is to get the Adapter from craig moates. Its cheaper for one and easier. Plus no harmfull UV rays bouncing round, plus a better more reliable chip.

You need to solder in the adapter or they offer to do it for $25 I think it is.

Initially I still may get a crappy old 2732A chip to burn. Until I get the right setup. But the the adapter is the right way.

good luck

 

You pay shipping both ways and include a crisp $5 dollar bill and I'll solder the darn thing in. Just promise me you won't start leeching off this board for your own profit.

 

I don't want to pay for the soldering. That been said if I feel it's for some reason beyond me I've pre-asked a friend to do it.
No leeching mate don't worry. $5 sounds like a deal I could turn around $20 profit Is the soldering "easy". a simple blob or 2? I've not looked at it yet.

I've a feeling santa is bring me a pocket programmer 2 for christmas so be prepared everyone for a barage of how do I wipe my butt type questions.

 

The solder job is explained in the documentation on his site. The soldering is the easiest part, maybe a minute MAX to solder the adaptor in. It takes a couple minutes and 2 hands to desoder the old pins out of the board.
Really, if you need any help just PM me or e-mail.
As for the help when you get your hardware... just be ready for a lot of and links to sticky's

 

Thanks JPrevost I will be most certainly taking you up on that offer if I run into any problems. Cheers.

Ok just so its here in this post.
Craig moates will do the soldering in of the adapter for $25.
The adapter itself is only $30.
The new chip is only $6.
Good deal me thinks.

one week to christmas YAY

 

Bill, I would suggest the moates adaptor also, While I'm down there, hopefully I can get a significantly better tune for you, but I think it would be best if you start doing your own turning. I'll help get you started, and show you how everything works. The moates adaptor will make tuning in the future MUCH easier.

 

I used to use flash chips. I've switched back to regular proms. I put 'em all in the cooker, put blank labels and I'm ready to go. They program a million times faster, and seem more reliable..

Seems the flash chips, wear out very quickly. Often, i'd burn a prom. Car would fire, no check engine, but it would still not be right.. Weird stuff.

-- Joe

 

They do this with poor burning hardware or software. The programming speed is more of a size issue. The 2732's are only 4k, the 29c256's are 8 times the size. You CAN block burn a flash chip if the software/hardware understands how to do this properly. I've found that temperature has a lot to do with the flash chip programming speed. Room temperature and the thing fly's, it's the cold temps that crawl.
I've never had any problem with my pocket programmer with the windows software. I even magically recovered a broken flash chip! The chip was installed backwards, quickly pulled it out and it was warm but still verified. Then it got kicked out partially and the idiot friend in the passengers seat that did it tried to put it back in while car was running. It obviously gave me a strobe flashing SES light... but on all the other switchs it worked without a hitch, only that one block was damaged. It wouldn't reprogram so I let it sit in my car for a few months. Then I programmed it and it verified . Never have I come across an eprom this forgiving .
I do like using the eproms for final burns of a car I tuned with the romulator. The flash chips are really only necessary for the person that is tuning and will be burning lots of chips.

 

I use the pocket programmer.

-- Joe

 

Do you wear fuzzy socks?...... no really do you? I hear static is the worse thing. I always touch a ground before I grab a prom.

 

That's odd that you're having troubles with the flash proms.

 

Faster programming on the EPROMs? Can't be by much unless you're using a marginal programmer. I get full 29C256 chip programming times on the order of 6-7 seconds. For just the 7000-7FFF segment required for the 2732 retrofit, you're looking at less than a second. Reading is 10x that fast. Since you don't have to erase them, that's a plus.

As for Flash chips being squirrely, I've definitely heard repeatably that this can be the case with the EPROMER5 and related hardware. However, with better programmers, this isn't an issue.

I know if you have bad connection or too much metal / distance between the target device (ECM) and the chip, you can run into difficulties with signal latency and EMF, but that is usually apparent with an extension cable and the chip or poor solder joints.

I've had a few flash chips go out, but I think it can be attributed to one of the following:
- Petting the cat before chip swapping
- Putting the chip in backwards
- Trying to program a 5v chip with 12v
Compared to EEPROM failures, I'd have to say the Flash chips are far more durable. But again, that's just based on my own experience.