Please don't yell about searching the archive and the stickies. I need some definitive and factual answers, please. I've got a few quick questions for TBI or even TPI tuners for that matter. I have been barrowing a friends EEPROM burner and UV eraser and using 2732A EEPROM chips. I am looking at getting my own burner but don't want to have to buy an eraser. I am also wanting to get away from the 2732A since it hasn't been built for some time now. What is the consensus, on the programmer and chip I should use. My current setup is a 2732 in a DIP socket without the factory shield deal over it. Pictures, links, and other info would be appreciated. Tuning is old news to me, but this chip burning is still pretty new. Thanks in advance.

 

Can't beat the Moates's BURN1 (Flash & Burn) at $85, and pick up some 29C256s and a G2 while you're at it. That will get you away from the need for 2732s.

www.moates.net

 

You didn't say which ECM you're using, but since you said TBI I'll assume the 1227747.

In my '72 Cheyenne TBI 350, I use a 7747 with a moates G2 to adapt from the 2732a socket to the 29C256 flash chip. I bought a Transtronics pocket programmer II, but if I was going to spend the money again I'd definitely go for a moates ostrich (though that wasn't yet available when I bought mine). Unfortunately when I bought the PP2 I didn't really know about moates, as the Burn1 is about half the cost of the PP2 and has very similar functionality.

My setup with a PP2/G2/29C256 works a lot better than 2732's, as it erases and reprograms in under a minute and doesn't need a separate UV eraser (it takes me much longer to modify bins than it does to reprogram). I am still eventually planning on purchasing a Moates Ostrich, however I don't have much spending money right now so that will have to wait until this coming summer.

Note that the Burn1, if you do buy, is able to read 2732's but not burn them - its designed with the flash chips (29C256) in mind. Also note that the 29C256 doesn't have the same number of pins as the 2732 and you WILL need to either make or buy an adapter like the moates G2 to make the two play together.

 

I am using a 747. One question is, will I have to do alot of soldering to use the G2 adapter or is it plug and play?

Also is the burn1 tunerpro compatible?

 

http://www.moates.net/documentation....entation_id=10

 

Thanks,
that doesn't seem too difficult. Then I noticed he will also install them on your ECM too.

 

Yeah, he'll install it if you're absolutely uncomfortable with removing a bit of solder and re-soldering some pins. It's really not too difficult. Took me about 15 minutes total.

 

I built my ALDL cable and have a few spare 747s laying around so I am not afraid to try.

 

If you've built a cable and you take your time, you'll be just fine. Go for it!

 

One last question, even though I am looking at how to do this, it seems like they have parts in that combo that are not listed. Could anyone make a list of everything I will need to convert to the flash chip. Obviously the chip and the G2 but what else. I also know the soldering iron and solder remover.

 

Okay:

- Atmel 29C256 Flash chip (however many you want - They're cheap

- G2 (comes with adapter and socket for 7747)

- Aries 28 pin ZIF socket

- A burner that can do 29C256 chips

- Soldering iron, solder, solder removal tool (wick/vacuum)

 

Thanks.

 

Im not trying to take anything away from Craig, but does anyone have a schematic of the 24 pin to 28 pin (2732 to 29c256) adapter so i could build one myself? I made my own aldl cable and i like doing things myself. If there are any links, i would appreciate it. (sorry craig, but i am going to buy a burn1)

 

It's not the schematic that makes this hard. Its a simple device (simple pin-to-pin connections). It's the fact that you'd have to create your own PC board to do it.

In any case, I'm not aware of any schematics, instructions, or a DIY kit for this. Ask Craig. He may be willing to sell you the parts at a discount in unassembled form.

 

No problem on the schematics. Just look at the pinouts of a 2732A and a 29C256, and tie all the high address lines to 5v. Let me know if you need any pics or what-not. I've got lots of stuff around that.

 

Yeah, if you could email me some pics, thatd be great. tonyluker@hotmail.com Im only going to be building one of these (for myself) so no worries about me stealing any customers I realize it will probably cost me way more than the 30 bucks you want for yours, but like i said, i really like to do everything myself.

 

Here's a pic. Note the 24-pin and 28-pin with pin#1 indicated. This is a top view.

 

OK...idiot question time.......what is the other set of prongs for? (3 sets instead of 2 on the other side)? see yellow mark on pic: Also, i noticed on your website that you have a resistor soldered in on the right side (looks like from pin1). Is that right?

 

Well, i think i answered my own question about the 3 pin thing, but id still like to know about the resistor.

 

Sorry, the three sets is a dual-pattern layout in case folks have either 0.6" or .45" spacing. No resistor, just 5v going to the high address pins. You can use a resistor if you want.

 

what purpose does it serve? voltage drop?

 

Just acts as a pullup. Since you don't need to force it low for anything, using a direct connection to 5v is pretty OK.