Hello,

I figure the best and easiest way to start truly troubleshooting and "fixing" my car is to figure out everything that goes into making her run smoothly.
I want to be able to program my own chips, so I can optimize my car for myself.

What I am getting so far is the 12 Pin ALDL OBD1 Bluetooth and USB Scanner / Code Reader / Adapter (MK II) which I heard is an incredible device for live data, as well as code reading. I figure the bluetooth will be a nice plus, so I don't have to lug the laptop around. . .
I am looking at Moates website for what I need, but I could just use a little more... Clarification.

From what I gather, the AT29C256 EEPROM from Atmel is the best chip to use, at least it was when the tech article was written..

What I am interested in learning more about, is how the Ostrich 2.0 works? What is the proper adapter, and what does it look like installed? I've only seen the memcal as a whole, but I would rather keep the one I have in one piece...
So, say I buy the Ostrich, which apparently allows live tuning... Does that mean the chip I plug in will hold whatever modifications I make? Or will I need to keep the Ostrich in the car?

To actually burn and program the chips, at this point, all I would need is a burner, such as the BURN2?

Should I get the GP1 Package? Or just the G1 Adapter?

I just wanna do this right and in one swift sweep...

Thanks in advance!

 

In terms of actual programming, I'm not even dealing with chips anymore. I just started running the ostrich permanently.

Mounted it behind the dash and routed a USB cable out to where I can plug into it. But since I'm never "done" (lol) this made it much more convenient for me.

Ordinarily though the ostrich would hold the calibration until you're done and then you'd burn a chip, pull the ostrich cable off the chip adapter and put the chip in it.

That said, you will need a laptop to do the programming on the ostrich so you'll have to take it with you in the car. In which case you might as well just download tunerpro RT for it. Its free and you can use it to make your changes as well as drive the ostrich by using the emulation mode.

But if you go my route, you'd only be buying the ostrich and a chip adapter.

 

Hmm.

I'd probably like at least one chip with a decent tune, just for precautionary purposes...

I'm probably keeping the TPI until I can afford an LS T56 combo so I want her to run as good as possible.

What are the cons of doing what you did?

 

Haven't run into any cons... so far its been only pros....

Whenever I want to make a change, I simply plug my laptop into the USB and upload it.

 

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...equipment.html

 

How well would it do on a really hot day? 100+

Where did you end up mounting it?

Only thing I would be worried about is it failing on me...

 

I used velcro to mount it to the back of the glove box. I did have to cut a slot in the ECM chassis cover to run the ribbon cable through.

What you can do if you're worried is carry a chip with you and the tools to drop the ECM and put your chip in.

That said, I've had my ostrich for several years now and never once had a problem with it.

 

Well I think you sold me on this, I'm looking forward to being able to tune my own car, pretty cool concept lol.

Do I need just the G1 or should I get the GP1 so I can get the Ziff?

Or even better, should I get the APU1 instead of the Ostrich and the Burn 2?

Ouff what to do what to do.

 

I would get the G1 package and a Burn2 if you are going to be flashing your own chips. SST 27SF512 is what people use now ( I think it would be hard to find the AT29C256 EEPROM and a programmer). The Ostrich is nice if you don't want to keep burning chips all the time, but the ZIF socket definitely helps either way. The AUTOPROM is everything in one package: datalogging, chip burning and emulation. I have an Ostrich 1.0 that I bought from another member off this site, and I still haven't used it. Actually burning a chip takes barely any time at all, all the effort is figuring out what to change in the tune and then making the changes.

 

Get the The Ostrich 2.0, you won't regret it. I have been using it for many years without any issues. Tuning is a long and addictive process and YOU WILL update the tune hundreds of times. So if you don't want the ECM on the floor all the time the Ostrich is the way. I had the G1 package with BURN2 and switched to The Ostrich after a while, just tired of burning chip. Here's my set-up LOL. I even have an inverter to recharge the laptop while on the road or for track days. The laptop holder is removable. Just food for thoughts. Cheers!

 

So the Ostrich is in my future...

What's the deal with Wideband o2?

If I need one, what should I be looking for, and is there an easy guide for install?

 

Interesting on the laptop holder... I did something similar. Built a box with the same contour as the seat. Inside the box, yep, an A/C power inverter to allow the laptop to run indefinitely. Also have the WB O2 gauge mounted on it as well. It's an old picture since now I don't have the ECM hanging down anymore. Just one USB cable going to the USB port I mounted.

 

WB is good if you're planning to start tuning for significant modifications. You need to see the actual AFR from the exhaust to know how the engine is responding to modifications. The NB sensor in the ECM is only used by the ECM to trim fueling in closed loop operation that's non-WOT, non-Open-Loop (like cold start), accelerator enrichment (like the accelrator pump on a carb).

During these non-closed-loop operating conditions, fuel is dumped in blindly by the ECM based on pre-programmed parameters in the ECM. It does not look at the O2 sensor to correct any lean or rich conditions. So once you start changing those particular parameters, other than "seat of the pants feel" you have no way to verify what you're actually doing to the fuel air mixture. You can look at the NB voltage output, but it's not accurate once you get significantly far away from 14.7:1.

I run an AEM WB O2 setup. Tunerpro (using the S_AUJP ADX and XDF files) can be configured to see the WB O2 output and report it out to you.

The Ostrich and hte WB O2 are easily the two most valuable tuning tools you can buy.

 

I run Autometer 5779 because it matched the rest of my dash set-up. I use Tunerpro with S_AUJP version 6 modified for my application. The Autometer 5779 can be hooked to the 7730 ECM for datalogging (using S_AUJP). The sensor is installed just before the catalytic converter. Here's a screenshot while I was tuning WOT from 1800 to 6000 rpm. I am getting the AFR around 12.5 to 12.8 before I get to the dyno session. I was flattening the AFR curve across the rpm range. That is just an example of what an AFR gauge can do. Very helpful for cold start and open loop tuning.

 

How did you install the WB? I heard you need to do something with three wires?

And did you get the 4.2 or 4.9?

 

The WB sensor itself comes with a plug. It plugs into the harness for the gauge. You just have to hook up switched 12V power and ground for the gauge and sensor.

I'm running the 4.9.

 

I definitely sense a bit of a learning curve here lmao.

Nothing like jumping into the wild.

At least im in good hands.

 

Up here in the modern world, we are getting away from analog wideband's due to the inherent sensor drift/grounding problems of converting from mA, to 0-5v, and back to digital in the ECU with a bunch of unshielded wiring..... and the tendency for the LSU 4.9's to die a rapid death (~3 months on a $150 sensor) when there is no bi-directional control of the sensor from the ECU. With the LINK standalone we have a wideband (lambda) module that's CANBUS and besides being much faster with bi-directional control for the ECU, it's also completely digital from the module to the ECU so there's no possibility of grounding problems (AEM's are notorious for this) causing scaling issues.

Hit me up if you want to talk about a plug and play modern stand-alone with real time tuning capabilities. You may not think you need it now but after you play around with that Ostrich and chip burning and 35 year old foolishness my offer will sound a lot better.

GD