i have a 85' trans am and when i first bought the car the fog lights didn't work but in a week or so they started to work. then after 2 days they stoped working again. the indicater light for the switch doesn't light up eather but the rear defroster and hatch release both work fine.... i bought a new relay for the fog lamps but i don't know exactly where it goes, any help would be great, thanks, ALEX

 

i got same problem, they never worked when i bought the car, then they worked ONCE. now they wont work again.

 

On the left (driver's) side of the engine compartment there is a relay on older models that operates the foglights. More often than not, I have cracked open these relays to find a pile of rust! You may also want to check continuity on the switch, but the relay contact lights the switch, and I have rarely seen that be the problem. Also a word of caution when changing bulbs, don't get any fingerprints on them, and be careful re installing the bezels inside the nose, you don't want a short!! And mine has 3.27 Borg Warner posi, 3.25 sounds kind of odd, but I don't have the Haynes table in front of me.

 

thanks for that advise, i'll check on the rear end specs too, lol.

 

what does the relay look like

 

i changed the relay, checked the lights and the switch but still no working fog lights, what eles can i do? i also made sure the running light switch was on, lol.

 

i found something out tonight, when i have highbeams on the foglight switch will glow blue when i have it flicked down. But when i dont have highbeams on the fog switch light doesnt turn on.

But the actual fog lights dont come on in either case.

I will have a look for that relay in the morning.

 

any other suggestions?

 

Do you have a manual with wiring diagrams in the back of it? Mine is in the shop with the car at the moment , I'm rolling in the spare tranny and and sending "Trannysaurus Rex" down to Louisiana this week. Refer to the diagram, and check the wires by color to make sure you have the right one. Also, in the wire loom down on the frame rail by the battery (left side) there are fusible links that are usually red with a white or silverish stripe. You can either replace the link, or splice in a regular piece of wire and find a better place near the firewall to splice in a weatherproof fuse holder, of course, you will have to lengthen the feeder, unless there is enough wire provided with the holder. And P.S., defpony, the foglights are wired in a manner so they DO NOT operate when the high beams are on. (or at least they should be). This is against the law. There are two very important tools you really should have, they are a 12v test lite, and a good middle of the road automotive multi-meter. Mine even has an attachment to hook around a wire to get an RPM reading

 

yeah but my car has been converted to RHD, so who knows how they've rewired things.

 

I am also having similar problems with my fog lights. I am gonna try changing the bulbs first. What is the easiest way to change them, as in which screws to remove? Thanks

 

i could only access 1 plug that was located on the firewall on the very left hand side, i unplugged it and it was full of grease and im pretty sure 1 wire wasnt making contact.

I dunno what this plug is for, but it was pretty dirty, i cleaned it a little bit and tried to push the loose wire back in, but i dunno if i fixed anything, the fog lights still dont work.

The plug consisted of 5 wires, 4 brown and 1 green.

 

its possible that the main on/off switch could be bad ,mine burned out while I was driving it sorta melted a bit and then I turned it off before it melted into a lock on position or the main power lead wire might be corrupted with corrosion and might need to be replaced?....these things do happen!

 

If you've been switched to something other than the stock wiring, this definitely means a test lite, and jumper leads, because diagrams may not help you. Tracing the wires out can help, because hopefully they may connect to the stock harness somewhere. If not, cutting the power and using an ohm meter to check continuity between terminals might be your best bet, and don't forget the duct tape and a sharpie! As for removing the fog lights, there are two torx head screws that hold the clamps for the lamps. Maybe T-15 or T-20, can't remember. I hope this info helps, and please read prior posts for other useful info.