Hello all...
I have a 1989 Camaro RS (LS1+T56), anyway...

I hate the electric trunk, it seems pointless to me if the trunk dose not open and close all the way by itself. It also takes longer to wait for the motor to pull the trunk down and up. Is there some way to completely remove the motor and convert it to a manual type???

Has anyone done this??

 

I believe there was an older post (sorry I don't really feel like digging atm) where someone just drilled and bolted the assembly directly to the mount so it didn't slide anymore.

 

I will look around. ty

 

The best way is to get the rear hatch parts from a manual car, and bolt them in. I had a car years ago with a bad motor - I marked the parts with hatch closed, removed the assembly, drilled holes through and inserted bolts, reattached to car - it worked, but I could never get the squeek adjusted out of it. Damned thing squeeked on every little bump until I sold the car, and I tried adjusting for months.

If yours isn't opening all the way, you need new hatch struts. If it's not closing all the way, you need to first try adjusting the bumpers on each corner of the hatch (they turn), and otherwise adjust up/down the whole motor assembly - the 4 large bolts can be loosened and the whole assembly adjusted up/down/left/right (the 4 bolts run through large square holes, thus there is adjustment there).

I personally love the electric hatch motor - never get any squeeking from the hatch, or leaking because the motor always pulls it nice and tight. It's just something you have to be gentle with (this isn't a truck, don't close it like a tailgate). The 3rd gen was never intended to 'haul' anything except teenage butts around town - it was never intended to actually open the 'trunk space' unless you needed the spare or were taking the tops out.

 

Mine was welded into one piece at the rails. I have a picture of the weld placement if you're interested. I love it that way.

 

few pics in my sig link, I made mine manaul but adjustable.

The track is in two parts, main and the slider.

I drilled holes in the center of the slider part, then welded a nut on it, then welded a rod of metal down the center of the main part, so the bolt had something to run into and grip well.

Then with the plastic covers off inside, I closed the hatch n put a few spare tires on it for weight [maybe use a friend instead] to hold it down tight, then I crawled inside and horsed down the bolts.


Worked out better then just welding it in place, which I did do the first time around but it works better when you can hold it shut tight.

 

hey do u still have the pictures I like to see what it looks like

 

I climbed through the car to the back and marked the railes with the plastic removed ,hatch closed and motor unplugged.

Opened it back up and drilled and installed nuts and bolts so it would not move.
(I like to use "nylon lined lock nuts" or "Ny-lock" they are called so they will not back out).

Has been working great like that for many years.