Hello. I have been dealing with a No Crank, No Start problem with my 92 Camaro. I've been on and off of forums trying to diagnose the issue. I had my battery checked by roadside assistance (provided by my insurance) and was told it was fine. I thought it could be the starter, so I jumped the start enable relay and got a crank, but no start. Replaced Relay, and still nothing. Back to square one.

I read online that maybe the Neutral start Switch could be an issue. Ended up Bypassing that with no result.

Please help

 

Sounds to me like a VATS issue. Is your security light on?

 

No Security lights or warnings.

 

When you turn the key does the security light come on and then turn off after a few seconds?

 

I'd have to check again, but when I leave the key "ON" there's no security light.

 

That doesn't mean the VATS module didn't die. My 1992 Firebird had the module stop working and I got no security light... at all. It also would exhibit the symptoms you describe, won't turn over, jumper the starter relay and it will turn over, but still no start due to no fuel.

BTW, which engine do you have?

 

Damn, I was hoping it wasn't a VATS issue. Well, I'm gonna send it in to a mechanic. I've exhausted my resources and patience working with electronic and electrical components.

I Got a stock V-8 305 5.0. For a 25yr old car, she still has some fight in her. Not too sure if the previous owner did any work before me.

 

Which 305, tpi or tbi?

 

TBI

 

I know you said you're done with it, but if you want to get it driving to the point you can move it around (but not drive it far), you can. This will also 100% verify if its an issue with VATS or not. Let me know if you want me to take the time to write up how to do it.

Also, have you checked the fuse for the VATS system? It could be as simple as that.. ripped apart my Dad's Corvette for that and it turned out it was merely a blown fuse

Lastly, I know you know a shop that knows the VATS system. A friend of mine took her 1991 Camaro to a "Corvette shop" and those morons just drilled a hole in her perfect center console to install a push button that bypassed the starter relay, which of course only accomplished ruining her center console.

 

So unfortunately, I have yet to find a shop that knows how to deal with VATs. Most turn you away apparently.

I would like to at least narrow it down to a sure problem, before jumping to a conclusion. So if you wouldn't mind helping me decide whether it's a VATs issue or not. I'm down to work on that.

Also, where is the fuse located? I checked all the fuses in the kick panel and they are all good. I didn't bother looking at what they were for because I'm working along a busy street and it's quite difficult to look at the fuse box without being half out of the car.

Thats is a shame about your friends corvette. But on the bright side. It's running again...

 

My bad. I meant shame about your friends camaro. Completely confused your dads corvette with their camaro.

Also, shame that the corvette was torn into just for a fuse. I would truly appreciate it if I didn't have to do that just for a fuse. Haha.

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/elec...able-vats.html

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tbi/...o-350-tbi.html


https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/elec...ing-tuned.html

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-VATS-or-P...1WEYiu&vxp=mtr

here's a few links on how to disable the vats, you can pull codes and if code 53 appears thats the issue.
removing the prom if you bypass the enable relay would allow the engine to crank/start to test if its vats as well.

 

Your VATS fuse should be located in the "convenience center" (more like the INconvenience center since it's such a well kept secret ) and will look like it does in this photo , it's the 10 amp at the top of the unit , labeled VATS upside down ;

 

Ok thank you. I'll take a gander later today. I'll update with my results

 

I had the same problem with my 89 Iroc 350
With what your saying about your security lights, it makes me think a bad ECU. Plug a scanner tool in under the dash. If nothing comes up, like it's not talking to the scanner at all. Replace the ECU, if not do a web search for fixing your VATS yourself, its knowledge that you'll need if you need it now or down the line. Good luck!
Paul

 

SHE's ALIVE!!!!!!!!!
It turns out my VATS was acting up. I turned to Tuned Performance for help and Brian did an awesome job with the custom EPROM he sent me. Had to wait a few days for delivery and a few more due to work, family, and such. BUT! Today I went straight to work removing the ECU and replacing the old PROM with a Disabled Vats Prom. Did a quick Bypass at the Start Relay and BAM! Not even a stutter, she gave me a roar. Not gonna lie, I cried a little bit. Thank Y'all for assisting, every little bit of information helped me better diagnose and understand this issue.

Lets just say I'm gonna be getting to work a lot faster 😎

 

Im getting the same problem here lol.

 

What are your symptoms and what have you tried? Could be something as simple as a start relay acting up.

 

Na the relay was good, it turned out to be the key cylinder!

 

Glad to hear you solved the problem. These cars can be a bit of a handful, but definitely worth the effort. Unfortunate I'm gonna have to sell mine here in the near future 😭

 

Ok, I thought I'd put my story here since it is the same behavior:

I had no crank, no start, no security light (sec light may just not be there in my case)

I had rebuilt the column a month back or so, I had to solder the VATS wires to my old tumbler, so they were a bit long, ultimately one of these wires got severed. Here is the process I went through to troubleshoot:


1. Check to make sure I have power
2. remove the Starter Enable Relay, Jump the Yellow/Brown wire and try starting (Engine cranked over) So this eliminated, power, starter, solenoid, and fusible links.
3a. This was a failed attempt at troubleshooting, I got a copy of my key made, but it did not have the resister in it, my idea was to use it to turn on the ignition, and then touch both sides of the VATS wires to the resistors on my main key, thus getting the car started, and being able to take it home and fix the broken wire there. THis didn't work because there is a bump on the key that is only present on the VATS keys, and apparently its required.
3b. Disassembled the steering column in the parking lot, twisted the vats wire together, and reassembled the column, got it started, took it home and soldered it again.

 

I have a 1990 Camaro and it won't start or even crank. My dad and I tried to bypass the vats with resisters, but still got the same result anyone have any ideas what I should do??? When I turn the key the security light comes on then goes out after a couple seconds.

 

Look at post 13, you can check the he signal to the ecm if you have a vom capable.
But you do not state what engine you have v6 (3.1), 5.0 tbi or5.0 or 5.7 tpi.
The 3.1,5.7 5.0 tpi use the same ecm the 1227730 the vats is either 30-50hz @ 50-60% going to pin f10 of the ecm a dark blue wire. If it's tbi it's pin b6 blue or purple wire.
http://m.ebay.com/itm/GM-VATS-or-PAS...%257Ciid%253A8
If you use this method you will need to bypass your starter enable relay.

 

I have a 305

 

Hay everyone, I had a key reader problem so I unpluged the key cylinder and put in a new one under the dash. IT worked for about 2 days NOW im getting all the same issues as if the Vats isnt reading the new key from the NEW cylinder?! I dont see how the new cylinder can go bad in 2 days. I even put some leeds on the wire going to vats and tryed jumping it with my second key like i had to befor and nothing so i know its not the new cylinder. I fear my VATS might have shorted out or somethign please help!

 

This would bypass the passkey hooks to b6 of your ecm.
http://m.ebay.com/itm/281813159375

 

I have a 1990 Camaro RS 305 TBI , I am having a no crank No start issue, I have replaced battery, alternator, starter, ignition switch block, starter relay, bypassed VAT with resistors and checked all fuses, and still got nothing?

 

Where are you losing power to starter solenoid?
ignition switch, park neutral switch or enable relay?
checked at c100?

 

Is this an Auto or Manual trans car?
When you say Starter relay your referring to the Starter Enable relay I'm assuming? Years ago before I bypassed this relay I had an issue with the relay clicking but not actually closing, I pulled the cover off and the relay was moving but not closing/staying closed with the key/ignition on. You have power going in and coming out of the relay?
Have you checked for 12 vdc at the starter? Purple wire you should have 12 vdc with the ignition on and everything else terminated at the starter should be a constant 12 vdc
Wayback Machine (archive.org)

 

Automatic and I installed a new starter enable relay, only thing I bypassed was the Vats with resistors, I will check VDC on starter enable relay purple wire and I am getting 12 VDC at starter

 

I only have on slot A tan wire , B blk/w yellow stripe, and C yellow wire D no wire, E Yellow wire

 

 

I am getting no VDC anywhere with switch on at the Starter Relay, but I was able to start it using a jumper wire from Slot A to an empty Fuse slot in Fuse panel with key in run position?

 

Would I need to run a 12 V wire from fuse box to Blk and yellow wire to have 12v at starter enable relay?

 

Can you get to your Fusible links at the starter? If you’re not getting any voltage to the starter enable relay voltage at the ignition switch can be suspect or the ignition switch isn’t adjusted properly, the ignition switch is being fed power from the starter solenoid through the fusible links. Check the two red wires at the ignition switch for 12 vdc.

 

I can get to the 2 fusible links at starter, if that is the problem will I need to replace fusible links?

 

If there’s no continuity on either side of the fusible link they’ll need to be replaced

 

if no power while trying to crank at enable relay large gauge wires start at ignition switch.