Hello guys just bought this gem. I am living in France a country with almost none IROCZ within.
Blower switch, motor and relay are new. Ground from blower motor is good. Ground on the relay is good to. I have 12 V on the red power on the relay. I don't have power on the purple wire connected on the blower motor.
Engine has been changed for a goodwrench 350. I have TPI INJECTION. This car when she fires is a devil. Feels like driving Mad Max black on black.

I would like some help to get better and understand what is happening. Looks like the harness has been a little tampered... Thanks

 

what happened to your hvac box? Looks like you have a block plate there as well.

 

Hello it has been cut out to fit the engine I guess. There is actually no AC in the car...
Blower does not work on high.

I have found that there is no 12 V on the brown wire in the car on the blower switch. I have still not found it in the engine bay on the other side.

 

Found a light low beep here with the voltmeter between here and the brown on blower switch.
This "domino" looks like half melted.

mistaken

I have found it I guess

BIIIIIP
so there is no 12 V HERE LOL
Continuity with brown at blower but doing nothing if I put 12V on it... Damn

 

At the top of this page, click on "Threads", then "Advanced". You'll get the "advanced Search page. Type in the phrase "burnt to ashes", exactly like that, including the quote marks, and my user ID. You'll find out everything you need to know.

 

Hello thanks I have already read a lot on it. But I can't find the "burnt to ashes" connector near the windshield cowl...I was a DeLorean owner for 12 years, and two weeks ago, I have became an IROCZ 28 1986 owner. Trying to learn.
For what I see the harness had a lot of mods from PO.
(As an example I have a switch connected to windshield washer pump when activated it turns the cooling fan on).

By the way is it safe to wire the brown cable from the blower speed switch directly to another 12 V?

 

OF COURSE NOT.

Do what all those posts I pointed you toward told all those other people to do. Your car, and your situation, is no different from theirs. Pull the AC (or heater only, as the case may be) control head out of the dash, follow the brown wire that brings the 12V power to THE WHOLE system, and replace the connector that you will find, which will be "burnt to ashes", just like everybody else. Then, you'll have 12V reaching the ventilation system. It's not that hard. It's just a car.

Your car does indeed seem to have "enjoyed" some "improvements", also known as "tampering". I have NO IDEA why humans think it necessary to hack their "car" up so bad, but, whether I can understand them or not, they do it. Too many really nice cars get DESTROYED by morons that think they know better than the factory did, how the car should be wired. EVERY SINGLE TIME they RUIN the car. Not sure why, after all these years of "car", that the humans haven't noticed that it ALWAYS ends that way.

Amusing species, these "humans". How arrogant they are to consider themselves the "highest" form of life on this miserable tiny speck of cosmic ash, and think of themselves as "intelligent". One look at your photos should be instantly recognizable as proof to the contrary. Oh well.

[mr_spock] Humans. [/mr_spock]

If your car didn't come with AC you may not have the connector below the windshield cowl. Hard to say, looking at what's there, how it came. Don't worry about that one, if you can't find it. Concern yourself with the one under the dash, for now.

 

Hello Sofa thanks for your time I poo pointing the frenchi in the right direction. I have read further and deeper this morning, and I think I have found it. Thanks a lot I have learnt mo any things in a little time.
I am going to fix both and I am coming back after.
Did not knew about third gen till I found my car.
Her name is Dolores and I am in love!






And while taking care of the brown on the hvac I have found this. Wtf is that?

 

@@sofakingdom
​Hello still digging in your threads,
but there is a part my English level do not understand about the ground wire on the connector : "Cut the big red wires and replace that connector as well, and if ground (black wires) goes through it, do the same to them."

I have on the connector a partial cut ground wire... Thanx

 

The factory connector you are holding in those photos is probably the one I always talk about, the battery feed for the blower motor's high speed.

There are several wires coming from the fan speed switch that go to resistors, which regulate the amount of current in the blower motor. The less current, the lower the motor speed. Then in the highest speed, a relay is operated, which changes the power source for the motor, from the resistors to a direct source of battery. The red wire in that connector is the battery source. The other side of the motor of course is grounded, like everything else. The black wire is that ground.

The blower in a car with AC draws FAR more current than the one they used in non-AC cars. So if your car didn't come with AC, it will be less likely to burn up the high speed connectors.

From what I can see, those wires, and that connector, look OK.

The one under the dash however, is probably your problem with the blower. I do not see the brown wire I'm talking about in the last photo. That wire is the power supply to the whole system except for the high blower speed. It carries power to the "mode" switch of the control head, and allows power to go to the blower speed switch when the system is turned to any On (not Off) "mode", whether heat, defrost, vent, etc. One of the other wires from the "mode" switch carries power to the blower speed switch.

The last photo, with all the spliced wires and the Potter & Brumfield relay, is NOT factory. That's something else that someone installed later. The factory yellow and purple wires that they cut are in the starter circuit. For that reason, I suspect that it's some kind of aftermarket alarm system, that disables the starter if not satisfied. Not related to the blower. That whole harness that they hacked into, goes to the neutral safety switch on the shifter. The yellow wire is from the ignition switch, and would have 12V on it when the key is in Start; the purple wire goes to the starter, and if the shifter is not in the Park or Neutral position, the safety switch will not pass the 12V from the yellow wire to the starter. The orange and black wires go to the back lighting of the shifter. The blue and green light the backup lights when the shifter is in Reverse.

The T92P7D22 is a relay with 2 Form A (make) contact sets. It's a generic industrial part, widely available from electronic distributors at one time, mostly obsolete now. Here are its specs. https://www.te.com/commerce/Document...ocLang=English When operated it performs the same function as the neutral safety switch, namely, allows power from the yellow wire to pass to the purple one. I have no idea why it's wired that way, since that would eliminate the safety function and replace it with whatever logic the alarm system happens to have. It also makes no sense to me why the light wires are connected to it, but for whatever reason, there they are. I also can't tell what the 2 wires with the small red spices are (the light blue and the other that the photo doesn't show), that are cut and just hanging there. The 2 black non-factory wires going to the relay are for its coil; they would have 12V between them when whatever circuit drives it, decides it's OK for the car to start. That whole thing looks rather scary to me.

 

Hey you know what, I have re-made all connections brown to brown on hvac, Red to Red on 12 V, then following wires to find were the ground was going from the relay. I had ré-ré-re-read threads with the "burnt to ashes". Your answer guided me to look towards the ground and then I found this :

Ground was totally loosen on right side. Cut it off and connected. For the others connectors contacts were really oxydated ( Grey and Green).
All redone it wasn't triggering the blower motor.
Then I remembered when testing things with shunt wire I had some strange sparks. Checked the fuse, it was "burnt to ashes".
Changed it and now v@sofakingdom thank you very much for your help clues and time.

Your explanation on the alarm relay are just awesome.

Next step windshield washer pump.

 

 

Don't bother with the factory one. It is THE TRASH. Always has been, always is, always will be. Didn't work well when it was new and hasn't gotten any better with age.

Go to the neighborhood parts store and pick up a generic one. Cheap and small is OK. Install it somehow somewhere near the washer fluid bottle, preferably below it, but certainly as low as you can get it, so that the fluid can get to it from the bottle due only to gravity as much as possible. Connect a hose from its input to the fluid bottle, and hook the old line from the bottle to its output. Put a hose splice where the factory pump is now so that the new one can pump all the way to the squirters without the old one interfering. Power the new pump by extending the wires that power the old one.

 

Looks like the same JUNK Aftermarket Remote-Start Alarm Systems that plagued these Cars in the US, have also made it to France...
Yuck!

 

Thank you for information. Looks like I have a new one but it is placed under the windshield cowl. I will move it elsewhere.
I have changed headlights for less and redone connections, They were really oxydated also. No more headlight blinking.





I think I am to add one bigger ground wire on each headlight,

 

Merry Christmas to you all!
Headlight solved! Washer windshield pump works. Made a new clean 12 V and a new ground. Now it spurts nicely thanks for the advices. On the to do list checking oil pressure sender connection and the oil pressure sender itself. Gauge seems fine as it flickers when Dolores is firing up. Also I have anther question : I have put an external temperature gauge on the coolant hose with the otterstat to put on the fans, Temperature gauge on the instrument cluster is OK when she gets V. I guess there are wrong wires connected to the temp sender. I have to dig in. Would it be OK to have one more gauge reading?
Thanks to you all helping.


Pic of Dolores my ride!

 

Hello guys I have finally heat in the car. Put a non AC panel and bought a non AC blower motor ! Put it all back this morning, and now it heats a lot. I am very happy! Thanks to all for your tips. I will post pics tomorrow!