Ok here is the deal. I have a 92 camaro z28 that had a 305 tpi....i went old school, put a 350 engine in it, rebuilt .40 over, 10.1/2 compresion, everything in this engine and componets are Brand new. Now the problem im having is that when i turn the key...its trying to kick over, my carb spits gas out the top (pretty high). my friend played with my dist. alittle and now big flames out of my exaust.( mind you right now its open headers) but no start....whats the issue.....!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! i want this baby to start..took my 4 years for this and its not starting! help

 

sounds like your timing is way off. remove your distributor from the engine. take the driver side valve cover off, HAND crank the engine untill both valves on your no. 1 cylinder (the first one on the driver side) are closed, now remove the spark plug and insert a peice of wood dowl (you can even use a screwdriver) into the spark plug hole and HAND crank the engine a little more untill the dowl or screwdriver sticks straight out. now youre at top dead center. replace the spark plug and the wire, now replace the distributor so that the rotor is touching the no.1 cylinders spark plug wires position on the cap. that should get you close enough to start it.

 

I am curious, are you still using the in tank fuel injection fuel pump? That thing is about 220 gph.

 

Or you could skip that part and when your two valves are closed set the balancer at 0º which unless installed incorrectly will also be top dead center. Personally i like set it at 10º advance then drop the distributor in straight over number one. Seems to fire every time for me this way.

Of course double check your firing order as well.

 

His fuel system is discussed here.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/engi...p-problem.html

To the original poster i will say from experience it doesn't pay to be lazy when you are doing your timing and just stab the distributor where you think it should go and then keep turning it til it starts. It always seems to end up being that range you can't turn it too you need it at. Then when you finally take 15 minutes to do it the right way you will be wondering why you wasted hours trying to save time.

Quick step by step.
1. remove distributor
2. remove valve cover
3. turn over by hand(meaning use a socket on the crank) til you reach 10º advance
4. check the pushrods/rockers. pushrods should be able to spin and rockers should both be up. If pushrods tight and one or both rockers is down, turn motor over 180º.
5. drop distributor in with rotor at number 1 cylinder.
6. if distributor does not want to drop in all the way, it is hanging up on the oil pump. Take a long flat head screw and stick it down in and turn the pump to line up with the flat on the bottom of the distributor that drives it.
7. re-drop the distributor in again above number 1, should go all the way down this time.
8. reassemble cap and valve cover.
9. fire motor.

Additional note. Anytime you are pulling the distributor the first thing you should do is disconnect the negative wire at the battery.

 

Since there's gas spitting out of the carb, you still have not addressed the fuel issue, so you'll get no where (except maybe a fire) until you do. There's no point trying to crank this engine at all until you get the fuel issue resolved.

You're going to have to get the fuel pressure down to 5-7 psi. You either have to 1) use the in-tank pump with a return style regulator, 2) use the loud electric pump you bought with a regulator and remove the in-tank pump replacing it with a carb pickup, or 3) forget about electric fuel pumps, remove the in-tank pump and replace with a varb pickup, and run a mechanical pump on the block.

The in-tank pump runs fine with no ECM. It gets power from the Oil Pressure Sending Unit. You can remove the fuel pump wires from the OPSU and run them through a relay with a hot-in-run wire and a ground to operate the pump only when the key is on, but you don't have to. The engine cranks, the oil pressure builds, and the pump comes on. The car will start off the fuel in the carb's bowls before the pump starts up from the fuel pressure.

But you need to back up, take a breath, and get the fuel issue resolved before you do anything else - you can't just run a ton of fuel pressure to a carb, or it just shoots out the jets all over the place, and it will blow the seals in the carb. You may have gotten that pump and regulator to work, but it's obviously too much fuel pressure since it's shooting out the carb. I've never read of anyone having success or long with any electric pump trying to suck fuel through a dead in-tank pump, so good luck. I think in the end, for reliabilty, you end up returning to the intank pump with proper regulator.

Get a $10 guage and put right before the carb so you can see what you're getting for pressure, and get that dead-head regulator adjusted if possible down to 5-7 psi. Then go back over the firing order, get the #1 set at TDC on compression stroke, get the dizzy stabbed in place properly, and see if it cranks then. If so, get a timing light and get your timing at about 10* BTDC, and make adjustments to lower your carb idle accordingly, then play with the timing a little either way, adjusting carb idle accordingly, until you find what your motor likes.



Once you get the fuel issue resolved

 

He doesn't have to remove the intank pump, diesel motors use vane style lift pumps to prime the system and then shut off after a minute pulling fuel through them the rest of the time.

If you have fuel dumping out the nozzles in the top of the carb(i skimmed over that part) then like i said before the pressure is too high, pushing past the seat which over fills the bowl and then pushes out the nozzles.

I don't remember seeing a pressure gauge in the other pics. You will need one to verify setting. Or you could just turn the regulator pressure down until it stops puking out the top of the carb.

 

So any word on this thing yet?