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Engine SwapEverything about swapping an engine into your Third Gen.....be it V6, V8, LTX/LSX, crate engine, etc. Pictures, questions, answers, and work logs.
Can anyone provide guidance (with pix) on best way to attach the Lokar cable to the 3rd gen pedal. Original cable had TWO small clevises (or cable end stops) on the pedal end. I know one is the cable stop with the small black plastic housing, but what is the other for? Anyhow, can someone share their process for attaching a new Lokar cable to a stock 3rd gen pedal? Can you buy those tiny clevises/end stops? Other ideas? Thank you!
I had to do this last winter. There is no magic tride-and-true way of doing it. it is difficult to describe, so I apologize in advance. I pulled everything off of the oem pedal and left only the circular opening. I then threaded the cable through the slot on top of the opening and used a bench vice to squeeze the slot closed. I then had a type of crimpstyle component that I put behind the back side of the assembly to keep the lokar cable taut and in place. Everything is squeezed and crimped together this way. its tight and has not budged for me at all. I do not have a picture, but you just have to use some ingenuity. The "crimp style component" I described is something I had and not something I bought.
Lokar Cable comes with 1 clevis that does not work with the 3rd gen pedal configuration (i.e.: OEM plastic sleeve). The OEM 3rd Gen TC has TWO clevises on the pedal end. Wanting to see what people have done to modify the pedal end of the Lokar cable to fit on the OEM 3rd gen pedal. Also wondering what the function of both clevises are on the OEM 3rd gen TC. Here are two pix. First is of the OEM pedal arm, plastic sleeve, & clevises. Second is the pedal end of the Lokar cable along with the larger clevis they include. Thank you.
Which Lokar cable is that? The one I went with had a big red ball on the end that fit into the stock pedal opening. Then I believe I just used a zip tie or something hacky like that to get the spacing right to achieve WOT. I'd get you a pic but the car is in storage for the winter. Here's the cable I used:
That brass piece goes to the throttle body, I think. Position it on the cable so that the throttle body opens 100% when you push the pedal to the floor. Tighten the set screw and then cut off the excess cable length. It's the very last thing you do after installing the throttle cable in the car.
At the foot pedal, the stock throttle cable has one (1) ferrule on the end that is swaged onto the cable. It's not coming off. You cut it off and laid it on the table in the photo below. And that's how you got the plastic retainer off the stock cable too.
The cable and ferrule in your photo appears to be brand new. You slid the new cable through the firewall grommet and then slid the new ferrule over the cable. It appears the ferrule isn't crushed yet, so not attached to the cable yet, right?
My new cable came with the ferrule already swaged onto the cable end. See link below for a picture. If yours isn't, then you'll need to do the job yourself by crushing the small end with a sledge hammer.
The brass piece actually goes on the pedal side (see bottom picture below). The TB side is the top pic. The TB side fits just fine. It is the pedal side that I am having the issue with. The OEM cable at the pedal end has two ferrules/clevises swaged onto the cable as you alluded to. I have a nice firewall mount and the new cable has nothing on the pedal end at all. Does that help a little? Appreciate it!
You can use the brass cable stop or buy ferrules yourself and crush it on the cable similar to stock. But whatever you do there needs to be some way to adjust cable length so you can adjust the throttle body throw.
Personally, I'm confused. I would have sworn the brass cable stop goes on the throttle body side, but I don't have the parts in my hand to play with it like you do. This might be a generic part and not specific to your vehicle. Perhaps worthwhile browsing Lokar catalog for different options.
The brass piece actually goes on the pedal side (see bottom picture below). The TB side is the top pic. The TB side fits just fine. It is the pedal side that I am having the issue with. The OEM cable at the pedal end has two ferrules/clevises swaged onto the cable as you alluded to. I have a nice firewall mount and the new cable has nothing on the pedal end at all. Does that help a little? Appreciate it!
You have that COMPLETELY backwards. The brass piece goes on the TB but if you do what QwkTrip did you don't need to worry about the aluminum clevis that came with it. You use the little black clip that you have in your first picture on the table, thread the cable through that clip FIRST, then you put the cable into the sleeve. The black clip goes onto the cable in the direction you have it orientated in the picture on the cable
I looked in my box of leftover parts and that clevis you think goes on the engine side is actually the pedal side. I couldn't use it and that's why it is sitting in my box of spare parts.
It's been years so my memory is fading, but I'll bet there is a ferrule on that end of the cable. I pulled the entire cable out of the sheath, slipped the clevis off, slipped the OE plastic retainer on, and then threaded the whole cable back through the sheath again. You only get 1 chance at it because the cable end will fray and you'll never get it pushed through again.
Actually, I used an OEM sheath with the correct grommet at the firewall as explained in the link I provided earlier. The only thing I kept from the Lokar kit was the cable and brass cable stop. Everything else went bye-bye because I didn't like it.
Yes...correct...my bad! Just had my pictures backwards...hadn't installed yet, but yes, the brass piece is the TB fitting and the clevis is the pedal side fitting. However, the clevis that comes with this Lokar is for a C5 pedal configuration (since this is the Lokar model for an LS swap) and not a 3rd gen OEM pedal which I am using. The 3rd gen pedal OEM cable uses TWO tiny clevises, so just trying to get the best "mod method" from you all. See this video clip & image below. The 2nd clevis is an inch below the one that is visible…just trying to see what the purpose of the second one is for and what mod ideas you have. Anyone have a link to where I can get these tiny clevises so I can use the OEM pedal configuration with little black round
housing?
I have the cable & I have the black clip.
(1) Why does the OEM 3rd gen cable have TWO cable stops at the pedal end? There is a 2nd stop an inch below the one shown in my picture above.
(2) Where can I purchase similar cable stops to the OEM 3rd gen style so they fit into the black clip (as the Lokar cable stop is HUGE and made for a C5 pedal)?
Thank you and sorry scooter...first 3rd rebuild here....
I think you just don't understand what you have.
Take the Lokar cable and start taking it apart. The brass piece comes off first, take that off. Then remove the pull cable from the outer sleeve. Then put the cable through the black clip. From there you can either use the Lokar parts to go through the firewall or do what QwkTrip outlined in his thread and re-use the factory pass through with the Lokar outer sheath. Then you slide the aforementioned cable back into the sheath, put the brass piece back on and cut it to length
Oh and that clevis is a universal piece for one of their pedal that they include with all the cable kits. it is NOT designed for the C5 pedal. The C5 pedal was DBW not DBC