Ok here's whats up:

• 84 Trans Am carbed 305 DEAD STOCK
• Must Pass Visual Emission Inspection

So what can i do to disable as many exhaust related emissions equipment to wake up my 305 and still get that bright and shiny yellow inspection sticker come June?????


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--Steve S-- 84 Trans Am 305 HO 5 speed, completely stock emissions restricted slow 150 hp(chilton rating) 240 torquer that needs RELEASE!!!!

 

C'mon I know someone has done it

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--Steve S-- 84 Trans Am 305 HO 5 speed, completely stock emissions restricted slow 150 hp(chilton rating) 240 torquer that needs RELEASE!!!!

 

That chilton rating is wrong... your 305 HO is rated from GM at 190 HP. And you dont have to disable emissions components to make horsepower. My car has everything hooked up and working and it makes 285 HP at the rear wheels. But you can gut your cat, gut your smog pump, but leave them both there and still pass if the rest of your engine is in good tune. The cat is what really helps to reduce the emissions, and the newer varieties dont kill a whole lot of power, and might even help torque.

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1991 Camaro Z28
5.7L 5-Speed (originally 305)
13.25 @ 107.18 MPH
Southern California
Member: SoCal 3rd Gen F-Bodies
Webmaster: SoCal F-Bodies
-=ICON Motorsports=-

 

Most if not all emissions test stations use a probe which goes in to your exhaust pipe. the other end is connected to a computer that makes the measurements and tells you if you passed or not. I suggest you find out before you start gutting your smog pump and cat converter

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92 Camaro RS LO3, 5-spd, T-tops
Mechanics:
Open Air Element w/K&N Filter, Flowmaster 3" Cat-back Exhaust, Z28 Grille w/aftmkt fog lamps
Electronics:
Alpine 8030 Alarm System, Valentine One Radar Detector (How did I ever drive without one?), Pioneer DEH 7450 Head Unit w/6-pack CD changer, Pioneer DEQ 7600 Sound Processor, 2 Kenwood KAC-90 Amps powering 2 12" Pro Red subs and 4 Infiniti speakers.
NEXT UP: SLP 1 3/4" Headers/Y-pipe, Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch kit

 

This should keep ya busy...
Cowl induction hood
'85 HO dual snorkel air cleaner assembly with dual outlets, minus tips (pay attention, this is how I got more air into the engine-remove high beam headlights, go to pep boys and buy 4" sleeving (similar to that round piping found on your dryer at home) and route from air cleaner inlets to center headlights (to keep the cops from wigging, put your headlights back in for normal operation, add tips to make functional), Edelbrock 750 Electric choke carb, Edelbrock Performer RPM Intake manifold, Edelbrock 1" open plenum carb spacer, K&N Air filter (3"), K&N Stubstack(this is a big air power adder for carb apps that most people miss), MSD Hot ignition module, MSD 6A with kit to hook directly up to stock wiring (call the parts supplier, they have this part #), Stock style Blaster Coil, Taylor 8MM wires, Accel U-Groove Plugs, Edelbrock Street Mechanical Fuel Pump w/regulator (set it 3 PSI higher than stock, you will need a gauge, I chose this pump because the base rotates around for clearance), Comp Cams 268H cam, lifter and spring kit, Comp Cams 1.6 Ratio Roller Tip Rocker Arms (no, not the $250 pieces, just the roller tips, they fit under the stock valve covers for late models), new pushrods (this is required for this if you had a roller cam from the factory 87 and newer 305s had a roller, or, choose a roller cam with durations similar to the 268H, no bigger, as this is pushing it for a 305 as is), pocket port stock heads, High Volume Oil Pump, New Rod Bearings, 350 Sized Oil Filter - I think it's Fram PH-4, Fluidampr Harmonic Balancer (this will add a tad of power, smooth rotating assembly), ASP Power Pulleys, removed AC/Smog pump (only removed the smog pump belt to run on the strip, free up horsepower), JET Fan Switch (a cool engine is a fast engine), hooks right into the cylander head on the passenger side and into the wiring harness, takes a special fitting to get the water jacket plug off the head, I got my 5/16 square fitting from snap on tools for $8, Get this switch, it's a must!, 160 Degree thermostat, Jet Stage 2 Chip, Edelbrock Headers/Y-pipe, new O2 sensors, gutted cat converter with a 2 1/2" straight pipe welded through it (stealth look), Flowmaster American Thunder Cat-back w/3 1/2" stainless tips, B&M Holeshot 2400 Stall Converter, shift improver kit (this is a pain in the *** , replace U-Joints while you're down there), B&M Megashifter, these are kinda a pain as well to install, follow directions EXACTLY, and a 3.73 Rind & Pinion from Motive Gear. That seems like a long list, it is sort of, but it ran like a traditionally built 383 with low end torque that was unearthly. Aside from electronics, most these parts were used, and you can find them still to this day even on the internet, like f-body message forum, and camaroz28.com message board. Now, for suspension mods, I kept it completely simple: Subframe connectors from Southside Machine, Lower Control Arms From Lakewood and an Air Lift air bag for the right Spring, with about 10lbs of air in it for the strip. This car woulda hooked really hard if they had BFG Drag Radials back then, makes me wonder if this isn't a 12 second combo, I know it's low 12s with Nitrous, give it a try. Total investment was the following (approximately over a 2 year period):

87 Z28........................$3100
All Parts......................$4000
Machine work/advice.....$350

If this doesn't get ya moving, nothing on earth will. Wish I still had the car

Good Luck!



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Dan Young
1995 Z28/M6
Groton, CT

1985 Z28/A4
(Prospective purchase)

 

There are a few things you can do to add power that will not have you visually fail inspection:

Dual snorkel air cleaner with K&N filter
Underdrive pulleys (power and amp series)
Edelbrock Performer eGr intake manifold
Electric Fans (if you have a clutch fan)
Gale Banks y-pipe, 3" cat, and 3" cat-back exhaust system.

These four items will increase HP from 150 to about 210, without any inspection failure.

I have the Intake, exhaust, air cleaner, and a special computer from Edelbrock on my IROC, it runs 15.2 at 92mph with a 5 speed and a 3.27 rear. If I put the pulleys and electric fans on it, it would run in the high 14's.

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Paul Huryk, billionare in training.
Monkey Guy Racing
Almost part of the moderately infamous NJ in-your-face all goomba crew

Do it right the first time.

Paul's home page

1985 IROC LG4 POS Best: 15.20s at 92.1mph
1984 Camaro 350 LG4 Best: 12.21s at 121.7mph

The smart person pays for something today so that more is received tomorrow.
The ignorant person gets something today and hopes to have enough money to pay for it tomorrow.

 

I like the suggestions from Paul_hurky, short and powerful, and of course the sugestions from MeanGreen are a little long and too big budget for me. I think when i get the Performer (EGR ) manifold i'm going to swap the camshaft to so that should boost it up to about 235 or so! I also got an 80 series Flowmaster so i have to install that (i'll let Midas take care of it) and hope it does good on my stock exhaust system.

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--Steve S-- 84 Trans Am 305 HO 5 speed, completely stock emissions restricted slow 150 hp(chilton rating) 240 torquer that needs RELEASE!!!!

P.S. Daily Driver

 

If you're swapping cam and intake, etc, ya might as well do the whole thing, or ya ain't gonna really see much of a gain. Stock heads flow like crap on these, so since you're digging (at the tune of a grand or so), might as well go all out, besides, you wouldn't really be out all that much anyways, but I can see where you're coming from, unfortunately, I'm back in the same boat...




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Dan Young
1995 Z28/M6
Groton, CT

1985 Z28/A4
(Prospective purchase)