Dual Exhaust - Clearance?
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Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 9,067
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From: Saskatoon, SK, Canada
Car: '83 Z28, '07 Charger SRT8
Engine: 454ci, 6.1 Hemi
Transmission: TH350, A5
Axle/Gears: 2.73 posi, 3.06 posi
Dual Exhaust - Clearance?
Hey, just a quick question.
Which usually poses the problem of ground clearance with true duals, the pipes themselves or the mufflers?
Which usually poses the problem of ground clearance with true duals, the pipes themselves or the mufflers?
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 2,308
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From: winthrop harbor, il & plymouth, il
Car: 1986 camaro
Engine: 383 sbc
Transmission: th-400
Axle/Gears: 4th Gen 10 bolt/Detroit TrueTrac 4.
my problem is where the collector is. that seems to be the lowest point in my dual setup. to be exact though mine isnt "TRUE" duals either. its just straight pipes hooked to my hooker longtubes and dumps before the rear
check out my post here https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=154300 if you want good clearance.
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 334
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From: Louisville, KY
Car: 1987 IROC-Z28
Engine: 383 Vortec - carb
Transmission: T56 - 6speed
crashed,
that looks pretty nice. Not an option for me since I will be running long tubes but still looks very nice. The fact that there is soo much pipe after the muffler prolly helps you keep the noise down too.
Hodge
that looks pretty nice. Not an option for me since I will be running long tubes but still looks very nice. The fact that there is soo much pipe after the muffler prolly helps you keep the noise down too.
Hodge
You will pretty much loose clearance no matter what you do if you want true duals. When you pass the piping under the trans. crossmember, it will definately be sitting pretty low. The mufflers will also sit lower then the piping too, so keep that in mind when you pick a final location. A word of caution: the fuel lines and brake lines pose an issue on the driver side, try to stay as far away from them as you can.
This very issue is what led me to come up with what I now consider a drastic approach that wasn't entirely necessary to avoid those lines. You can run dual exhaust safely away from the lines, but you will definately loose some clearance...
Here's some pics of my dual setup
http://www.geocities.com/mikecarter1...?1038428146048
This very issue is what led me to come up with what I now consider a drastic approach that wasn't entirely necessary to avoid those lines. You can run dual exhaust safely away from the lines, but you will definately loose some clearance...
Here's some pics of my dual setup
http://www.geocities.com/mikecarter1...?1038428146048
My car is still up in the air from putting duals on. It is possible to do it and keep ground clearance and you can do this in more than one way. What I would suggest is that before you attempt it you will need to know what kind of headers you plan on using because this will make a difference(mostly long tubes or shorties).
If you have shorties you will have to fab up something to come down from the headers and aim the exhaust the direction you want it. If you want to run the exhaust clear to the rear of the car probably the easiest way would be stock routing somewhat like crashed did. If you go here you will see deadbirds exhaust. This is probably my favorite that I have seen . His run back and straight down the trans tunnel and over the rear on both sides. One thing about his that wont be so easy to do like his if you have an auto is the modifying the crossember so the front of the pipes are higher. Here is a link to some pics of his. https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=139065 The front crossmember/subframe is the hardest part to get clearance with but if you can modify a crosmember as he has done it looks awsome.
If you have long tubes(like me) you will need a totaly different approach. You pretty much have to run straight back because the headers stick to far back to turn and go around the subframe. Again if you have a manual you may be able to have the pipes bent or cut and weld some bends and modify a crossmember to run down the drive shaft tunnel. I have hooker long tubes and I ran s extensions off of my collectors. Most people use these on hedman long tubes to get the pipes low enough to clear the crossmember. Since the hookers hang lower than the hedmans could have probably cleared without them but I instead used them to move the exhaust toward the center of the car. They moved the pipes over the perfect ammount to go straight down the driveshaft tunnel, hoever my drivers side header doesnt aim exactly straight back so I had to have my s extension pie cut and bent together and welded and now it compensates for the angle of the collector. I ran under the crossmeber because I have an auto, and the collectors hang as low as my pipes do going under it and so my clearance shouldnt be any worse. I know the headers clear my driveway so they should clear about anything I would drive it through. I ran pipes straight back and into dynomax bullet mufflers and turndowns before the rear. I would have like to go over the rear, but there is no shops around here that can do mandrel bends, and I dont have a welder. My car is still in the garage and waiting on a carb and a couple of other things before I will be able to drive it though.
Mufflers... this can be another problem. Several people have beat the floorboards under their rear seats up in order to fit their exhaust. Well, I dont want to do this to my car but it is an option to those of you who dont mind. A couple of other options are running small mufflers like I did or if you can run the exhaust over the rear end you can put mufflers behind the rear end. I dont like the idea of going under the rear mostly because of looks but it is a viable option. There is room to do it and in order for the rear end to hit the exhaust the suspension would have to extend a way past the stock ride height. If you do this though I warn you to unbolt your exhaust before you jack up the rear of the car by anything other than the rear end because the axle will hang down and hit the exhaust.
I am sure there are even more ways to go about this but I need to go work on my car honestly and hopefully I will be able to get pictures of the exhaust before I take it down, but I have to have plenty of light to do it because I have a very cheap digital camera.
Ben
If you have shorties you will have to fab up something to come down from the headers and aim the exhaust the direction you want it. If you want to run the exhaust clear to the rear of the car probably the easiest way would be stock routing somewhat like crashed did. If you go here you will see deadbirds exhaust. This is probably my favorite that I have seen . His run back and straight down the trans tunnel and over the rear on both sides. One thing about his that wont be so easy to do like his if you have an auto is the modifying the crossember so the front of the pipes are higher. Here is a link to some pics of his. https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=139065 The front crossmember/subframe is the hardest part to get clearance with but if you can modify a crosmember as he has done it looks awsome.
If you have long tubes(like me) you will need a totaly different approach. You pretty much have to run straight back because the headers stick to far back to turn and go around the subframe. Again if you have a manual you may be able to have the pipes bent or cut and weld some bends and modify a crossmember to run down the drive shaft tunnel. I have hooker long tubes and I ran s extensions off of my collectors. Most people use these on hedman long tubes to get the pipes low enough to clear the crossmember. Since the hookers hang lower than the hedmans could have probably cleared without them but I instead used them to move the exhaust toward the center of the car. They moved the pipes over the perfect ammount to go straight down the driveshaft tunnel, hoever my drivers side header doesnt aim exactly straight back so I had to have my s extension pie cut and bent together and welded and now it compensates for the angle of the collector. I ran under the crossmeber because I have an auto, and the collectors hang as low as my pipes do going under it and so my clearance shouldnt be any worse. I know the headers clear my driveway so they should clear about anything I would drive it through. I ran pipes straight back and into dynomax bullet mufflers and turndowns before the rear. I would have like to go over the rear, but there is no shops around here that can do mandrel bends, and I dont have a welder. My car is still in the garage and waiting on a carb and a couple of other things before I will be able to drive it though.
Mufflers... this can be another problem. Several people have beat the floorboards under their rear seats up in order to fit their exhaust. Well, I dont want to do this to my car but it is an option to those of you who dont mind. A couple of other options are running small mufflers like I did or if you can run the exhaust over the rear end you can put mufflers behind the rear end. I dont like the idea of going under the rear mostly because of looks but it is a viable option. There is room to do it and in order for the rear end to hit the exhaust the suspension would have to extend a way past the stock ride height. If you do this though I warn you to unbolt your exhaust before you jack up the rear of the car by anything other than the rear end because the axle will hang down and hit the exhaust.
I am sure there are even more ways to go about this but I need to go work on my car honestly and hopefully I will be able to get pictures of the exhaust before I take it down, but I have to have plenty of light to do it because I have a very cheap digital camera.
Ben
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 9,067
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From: Saskatoon, SK, Canada
Car: '83 Z28, '07 Charger SRT8
Engine: 454ci, 6.1 Hemi
Transmission: TH350, A5
Axle/Gears: 2.73 posi, 3.06 posi
I plan to use a set of shorty headers on my car. But, 1 more question... why doesn't anyone put the mufflers were the stock muffler is? You know, behind the bumper cover. Thats were i planned to put them.
After doing my own 2.5" duals at work I really see only one problem with it, there is no place to put a hanger. You will have to fab your own mounts. The other problem was having a lift where the rearend would hang down so both pipes could go over it. I have one on each side going over the rearend with no clearance problems. I also used Bullets aimed at a 45 toward the corner of the car. Actually after doing it we could have used almost any muffler and it wouldn't have been visable from above, beside, or behind the car.
Since I wasnt able to go over the axle I just put hangers at the back of the driveshaft tunnel. I drilled holes and put a washer and nut inside the car and it seems to work fine.
Ben
Ben
Oh, and how loud is your car with the dual 2.5 pipe and bullets. That is what I just put on my car along with an h pipe but wont be able to run it for at least a week or two. How loud is it inside the car?
Ben
Ben
Oh, and how loud is your car with the dual 2.5 pipe and bullets. That is what I just put on my car along with an h pipe but wont be able to run it for at least a week or two. How loud is it inside the car?
Ben
Ben
Its not as loud as dual 2 1/4 with 24" glasspacks, but I plan on changing to some of the round dynomax street muffllers. It wouldn't be hard at all to fit them because they are only another inch in diameter compared to the bullets. I guess cruising around the bullets are o.k., but when you get on it watch out for the cops. I didn't get to build my h-pipe yet, but it would probably tone the whole thing down to livable noise.
Do the h pipes actually lower the noise also? I know x pipes did but wasnt sure about the h. I cant wait to start mine. You dont happen to have any pics do you? It sound like you have access to a lift at work. It would be awsome to get some pictures of it up on the lift on here for us.
Thanks
Ben
Thanks
Ben
I just got true duals put on my car over break. My grandfather and i did it. I dont have any more problems with ground clearance than i did before. I dont have any headers though, but i have true duals with two 24" glass packs in the back. I think it sounds pretty good. If i ever get my car up in the air i will try to snap a few picks.
Well, I have mine on now. I cant get pics with it at my house. I have it on jackstands and ramps still so I cant tell exactly how my ground clearance will be yet, but I dont think it will be bad. I have the mufflers and turndowns already welded to the main pipe, but everything that connects to the h pipe is just clamped. I am going to take it to the exhaust shop to have it welded when I get the car back on the road. I will try to get pics when it is on the lift. I may try to get pictures of the ground clearance before that though.
Ben
Ben
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Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 2,047
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From: The State of Hockey
Car: 1987 Trans Am GTA
Engine: Miniram'd 383, 24X LS1 PCM
Transmission: TH700R4, 4200 stall
Axle/Gears: 9", 4.33:1
Hey junk, can you get a pic of how you have the front part of that H-pipe setup? Thanks.
The h-pipe will reduce noise quiet a bit, when I did my dual glasspacks I tried before and after and there was a big difference. This jerk who used to work at my shop sabatoged my engine the day before he got fired so I don't have the engine in it right now. When I get the money to fix the engine and put it back together I will post pictures. I lost about a 1/2" of ground clearance over stock with this setup so its o.k. unless you hit a large speed bump at a decent speed. Like I said before the biggest obstacle to getting the duals under there is having a lift that will allow the rearend to hang so you can get the pipes over it. Unlike some of the slaughterjob duals I have seen mine only consists of two pieces of pipe. If we had pipe in 15' sections it would only be one piece.
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