I've found that pipe wrap made by Frost King P/n FV516 sold at Lowes and Home depot is just as good as Dynamat and at a MUCH cheaper price... 12" x 15' = $18.50 per roll and it takes about 3-4 rolls... I put it inside my doors, under the carpet and on most of the metal that I could get to... Its friggin AWESOME

 

i did QUICK ROOF from home depot to add mass to the floor pan, then I went over with this auto insulation I got from pep boys for 25 bucks a roll. I think its 4' x 6' (24 sq ft) for 25 bucks isn't too bad. before going over the quick roof, i made sure to foil tape EVERY seam and the outer edge to make sure that there is never a funny smell from the roofing material heating up. i've heard that it can smell funny ( like tar) but I think taping all the seams and edges will greatly reduce if not prevent any odors. I did the whole floor with the quick roof with three rolls ( about 54 bucks ) each roll is 12.5 sq ft. so about a roll and a half of the auto insulation should do it. So we are looking at about 90 bucks to seriously fatten the floor up with fume, heat and noise insulation. Not bad. Took about 3 days to do everything, and I took my time. Still have to do the rest of the body and trunk area. When all is said and done, will have a solid sounding with a cool and quiet interior for all under 300 bucks. Not bad.

 

and thats including the whole cargo area.

 

Pep boys has it?

 

I don't know why you guys add all this insulation stuff to your cars.You can achieve the same results with Mass backing on your new carpets for like $50.00.

 

Because mass backing dont stick more mass directly to the metal of the floor pans, and more insulation coulnt hurt with sound and heat. Cmon think about it. Im putting essentially three layers including the mass backing. I have my floors bare, so may as well get it done thoroughly now instead of wish I did later. Its not a waste, its insurance and peace of mind. A waste would be to order dynamat when you can buy the same **** at home depot for a fraction of the price.

 

In a case of insulation, less is not more.

 

I always used peel and seal, but there are more application-specific materials out there that will work better with less used. sound deadner is used to stop vibrations in large panels by absorbing energy and adding mass, although many do like the added benefit of additional insulation. since many of the materials mentioned in this thread are asphalt based (mine included), they have a couple of downsides - lower melting points (hot car + asphalt tar = messy cleanup, and heavier weight compared to their butyl brethren.

mass backing is a simple solution for insulation, but there are some trade offs there too. since the backing is applied to the back of the carpet, it does make the carpet a bit more stiff, so tight curves are not quite as form fitting and installation is a bit harder. you do get better insulation over the standard backed carpets, but you do not gain the big sound deadening benefits because there is nothing stopping the floor pans from rattling/vibrating

 

I'm very happy with my fat-mat. No, its not cheap, but its an insulation AND a sound deadener. It seems to make a big difference, not only with the sound, but also with the temp outside. There's not much between you and the road on the floor, this helps keep heat in and cold out, and vice versa, which in a t-top car on a hot summer day......I wish i'd taken readings with a thermometer from before, because it sure does seem to make a difference.

 

The whole reason I started looking for an insulation and sound deader is I have some gear whine and it drives me crazy! This stuff is not asphalt based, its foam... Just FYI

 

yeah i saw that stuff, its a slightly adhesive backed, gummy rubber insulation with a foil back. The only thing it won't do is like Dan from 1A said add mass to the metal to absorb vibrations well as peel n seal or quick roof ( which BTW is the same stuff, ones carried by lowes, the other by home depot)

 

thanks. exactly my point. Although i am using the quick roof, the auto insulation, and the mass backing. the quick roof and auto ins. are rather thin, so i don't think the mass backing will have any fitment issues with all the layers down. Also I think if the peel and seal is properly taped off and laid down , then there will be no ' messy clean up' I hope to never have to remove the stuff. lol

 

How do you get your seats and panels back in after you put layer after layer of insulation in.I mean how LOUD is your car,how Cold is your car and when summer comes that tars going to melt and stink.Maybe it's just me.

 

Take a look at RESPAWNFORMULA's 1st post... He i putting another layer over the Quik Roof to keep the stank down in the summer...

I've only got my doors done right now but I'll have the rest by the weekend and all of my plastic will be re-dyed

 

These cars are loud and rattly. This has been established time and time again. The extra little bit of work we are doing to our cars can only add to the enjoyment of the ride, not take away from it. These are things that are being done to higher end modern cars to reduce road noise and heat. Things that were never done to our cars. isn't a part of the whole restoration process to make it better than NEW
?

 

I used Peel and seal and then went over everything with vycor. Has never smelt for year and a half its been on. I just hope I never have to remove it. I have not done doors yet because they got a bit of a sag and I want tovfix that before I add any extra weight.

 

Dont k now if your good with a welder but I've got a very cheap solution for bad hinges... Go to the Body section and look for DOOR HINGE REPAIR WITH PICS and have a read thru it... Takes about 4 hours MAX

 

Would a spray-in bedliner type stuff work well in reducing metal vibration & noise reduction?

 

I would think in theory yes. But not for sure.

 

yes it does but unless it is applied pretty thick then it wouldnt be as good...

 

Ok so, I finished the wheel tunnel and most of the rear exposed metal. It doesnt have quite the effect that I wanted but when I figure out what the whining is, it should be a 3rd gen Caddy wanna be lol

 

I put in ACC carpet with mass backing about 2 weeks ago. Absolutely helps with sound. I cannot hear my 5th gear whine anymore. The whole car is quieter.

Not knocking what you are doing because the sound deadening materials are high priced. But I put a little grease on the inside of my door on the power door locks and even that stunk. I would worry about a roofing product since they do not care what a roof smells like. I have bought RoadKill which is a competitor of Dynamat and it was cheaper. I have a roll of that duct insulation and I do not think it will help noise enough to use it for that - but it should help on temp.

 

It did help on the doors so I'm hoping when I get that whine fixed, it'll be much more noticable

 

I add Thermo-Guard FR by Thermo-Tec under my new carpets. I can't say how much quieter the car is yet since I am still in the rebuilding stages.

 

So what are some good noise reducers? I really want those

 

http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi

Not really a review anymore but he talks about what you need to do.

Here is a list of brnads.

http://forums.maxima.org/audio-elect...ng-thread.html

 

I came across some stuff called lizard skin that is a sound- deadening and insulating spray. they come in kits with a pneumatic spray head included.

this may be of some interest to you.

http://www.lizardskin.com/

seems like good stuff with a spray ceramic temp insulation and another part for sound insulation

I woulda been interested if i had a place to make a big mess like that.

 

have you had any problems with peel and seal smelling bad when the weather gets hot?

 

A good friend used the lizards in products in a 1942 wc53 with a 4bt cummins in it. We could have a regular conversation in it and that is saying a lot for the quality of the lizard. But he used it as the manufacturer recommended - vibe dampener, open cell, closed cell and the ceramic stuff. Lotta money and time and weight

 

I think we all understand that there are several brands of deadeners to choose from, some cheaper than others, but lets talk heat and sound insulation. Even dynamat can't cure those inadequacies the most efficiently. I was hoping to put some sort of heat reflective insulation over the peel n seal I plan to use and under the mass backing carpet (yes, I am a student with a shallow wallet so peel n seal works for me. In my experience the high priced product is rarely worth the price, and theres always an alternative.)

I went to Lowes looking for the heat insulation and the closest thing was a cheap aluminum double sided bubble wrap. Literally, its plastic bubble wrap that is about 1/8 " thick and just reflective like a sunscreen. I went to homedepot.com and found this SolarGuard:
http://www.homedepot.com/Building-Ma...&storeId=10051

Solarguard has the reflective aluminum sides and a 1/4" fiberglass insulation, I think it would work well as a heat reflecter, as for noise, it'll help, and as for vibrations, who cares I've got peel n seal.

If anyone has some decent info on other solutions for matting once we've got deadener, please enlighten me/us. I'd like to have a cool quiet cabin for as cheap as possible.

Another heat reflective and noise dampener is called EZ Cool

http://www.shanescitshed.com/cx2500/...nsulation.html

And thoughts, comments would be great thanks

 

I am going to try Solar Guard, it loooks good. I used the peel and seal in my 72 chevy pickup, it helped with the noise and tinny sound I was looking to get rid of. It ahs been two years through all four seasons and I have never had any hint of an odor and my wife is like a bloodhound so I doubt anyone would notice. The product name was quick roof, I bought two rolls of 6 inch wide and had enough to double layer the whole cab.

 

I just bought 2 - 4' x 10' rolls of EZ cool. I plan to tear apart the interior tomorrow and plan it out. The total came to $83 for me, not bad at all.

Once I've got the peel n seal down, I'll be putting the EZ cool right over it with the Aluminum foil tape to keep the "fumes" down around the edges (not so bad from what I've heard unless you live in Mexico, haha). I also figured the foil could keep the peel n seal up on the side panels near my speakers. I've heard it might come off years down the road if applied upside down or vertical, then again others have said its still on very strong, so put in the extra time and effort for the results
I do plan to use a heat gun (hair drier) and 3M super adhesive. Ill bet it doesnt take a whole lot, I've heard that stuff is pretty amazing.

Anyways I'll post pics and info when I get started.

 

I just went to Home Depot tonight and saw the Frost King foam insulation, and it looked promising.
About 1/4" thick, al backing, with tight foam core and adhesive. I would have gone with it if it had double sided aluminum around the foam, and it was a bit more expensive than the EZ cool, so I went with that.
Ill definitely try it out if I run out at all, 15' for $18 isnt half bad at all

 

I used the MR frost stuff from Home depot in my car 3 years ago. And its still holds up good. I have Long tube headers, and true dual exhaust that rides right along the floor board, and it keeps alot of the heat out. I still want to do the doors, and trunk area.
Here is a pic from 3 years ago when I did My fire wall, and front floor pans. I dont have pics of when I did the rest of the floor.

 

EDIT: I just realized I typed a novela- I don't claim to be a sound pro nor do I play one on tv, so my apologies if the terminology is incorrect- so here's the cliff note version:

Peel and Seal- stops vibrations, adds mass, lowers the resonance frequency. Should be the first layer. Add 2 layers. Plan on about .75 rolls per door for 2 layers.

Frost King- reduces/absorbs higher frequencies (road noise). Should be 2nd layer. Plan on 1 roll for both doors at 1 layer.

I only took one shot of my driver's door before and the initial after, but here's my experience so far.

I started with 2 rolls of Peel and Seal from Lowes- Menards and Home Depot didn't carry it. I did one good layer of P&S on the door AFTER fixing some of the basic rod and door fixes in the tech article section of TGO. I made sure to cover up the gaping holes in the door used to access the PL and PW motors- the only gaps left were for the lock and latch rods. The door IMMEDIATELY sounded better when closed. Even my wife commented on the sound of it while she was standing at the door from the house to the garage listening to it open and shut.

Picked up some Frost King at Menards today- and started on the other door, sail panel areas, and hatch.

I did the deck lid first- 2 layers of PS, and 1 layer of FK over top. With 2 Kicker 12" CVX running 658 watts RMS, my low rise aero spoiler no longer rattles. Also did both sides of the license plate holder with 1 layer of PS while I was back there.

Moved onto the passenger door- did 2 layers of PS this time- first layer horizontal, second vertical, and then a horizontal layer of FK over the top. Armrest was a BEEYATCH to get back on- luckily had some extra 'top mount' torx screws from prior parts cars to get it back on. In hindsight, I should have left those bolt holes uncovered- the layers added just enough that I couldn't compress to get the screw to bite in the hole. That door now sounds AMAZING- like shutting the door on a new Caddy or Lexus. I will be going back to add a second layer of PS and 1 layer of FK to the drivers.

Sail panels- pulled the speakers, and gutted some decorative pillows (our German Shorthair had already started on one, so I finished the other), and put the stuffing of each pillow into the area that the speaker sits. Crammed it in tight 360* around the speaker. Then, used 1 layer FK around the entire panel. I may go back later with 1 layer of PS- we'll see how she sounds tomorrow.

I saved the remaining PS for the roof/tbar- I only had enough for 1 layer from the upper console to the back window, and across. I currently have no headliner- the OE cardboard was rotted beyond repair when I bought the car. I followed up with 1 layer of FK over all of it.

I haven't drove it yet- first drive will be tomorrow to look at a new set of tops since one of mine seems to be slightly small- but sitting in the car, with my shop stereo at a moderate level, the volume inside the car is GREATLY reduced compared to before. Knocking on the car panels that have been 'treated', they all make a thud now. All tinny sound is gone. My crappy 15 year old Pioneer TSA695 sound much better. I may not replace them now.

I can't wait to do the floor, firewall, and hatch/tub. I will wait until I get new carpet for that. I just found out that my black carpet is covering the original tan/doeskin carpet. Go figure. She started as an $800 parts car.....what do you expect.