When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
My pickup just did the same thing (tilt/manual). A little unnerving when you can't shut the engine off, plus I had to leave the key in it overnight too.
I noticed that the key I was using was worn and was thinking about having another key made because of it. Looks like I'm replacing the cylinder lock for sure now and that's what I'd suggest. I really don't want to drive around with specially tools and/or get stuck far from home with that happening again.
I haven't called any dealerships yet, but when I looked online it looked like they didn't carry lock cylinders for tilt columns, but some after-market stores carry AC Delco for $40 vs the $20 for the other lock cylinders. I was wondering if there is any quality difference or not.
You basically use a couple of tools. One to pull the steering wheel, and the other to push in a plate to take a snap ring out. Then it's pretty easy to get to the lock cylinder and replace it. There are good videos on Youtube for that as well
Yup, happened on my old 88'. At a gas station key got stuck in the column couldn't get it out. Had to call a lock smith to replace the ignition cylinder. The pins inside the tumbler got out of whack and actually wrapped around the teeth on the key...
Luckily my lock cylinder decided to lock up on me at my home just before taking it out for its weekly drive.
I have had my column apart some years ago when I had to tighten up the tilt mechanism as it was somewhat loose (I wrote an article about it and I believe its still posted here?) so this procedure should not present too much of a challenge.
I checked out some videos on You Tube just to confirm what was involved.
I also DO have a Factory Service Manual for my IROC as well all the necessary tools so I believe I'll be ready to dive into this when the parts arrive on Thursday.
I managed to find a brand new AC Delco MATT BLACK Lock Cylinder with 2 GM keys on Amazon.com for $18.00 shipped. (At the time there were only 5 units left in stock)
Tried all the local auto parts stores and the only AC Delco/GM units they had in stock were chrome plated ones, nope not for my IROC!
I have attached a current photo of my 88 IROC to this message, I hope it shows up!
Thanks again to everybody here for the help and advise, its good to see that these forums are still worth visiting when I need a little help!!!!!!!!!
Dave Staubli, Third Generation USA (aka IROCZDAVE)
Last edited by IROCZDAVE (88-L98); Jul 20, 2014 at 05:09 PM.
Same thing happened in my daily driver (2006 Saturn Vue), after searching it was common issue with those cars (GM lol).
Luckily, I was able to move my key back to "accessory" so the car would shut off, but the radio and lights were sticking on. I, like you, also have to disconnect the battery and leave the key inside over night. Anyway, I drove it around like that for a week and disconnecting the battery every time I had to stop lol. Took it too a mechanic the following weekend (started on a Sunday) and they replaced the cylinder.
He took it apart and greased it up and it was "working" but the key if you didn't pull it our fast/hard it would get stuck halfway coming out. So I went ahead and replaced everything just to be safe.
For future reference, I had this problem too but it actually wasn't my lock cylinder.
It was the rod had got caught on the plastic sleeve that wraps around the column.
Where the column goes under the gauge cluster, there is a plastic cover, and you can turn it round and round. I found that by moving that plastic, my ignition became unstuck
Good idea to check that rod while the lock cylinder is removed.
I was on my way to an OZZ-Fest concert one year and stopped for sandwiches on the way. Had my ignition act exactly as you describe. After crawling under the dash I found the rod would not move - it was somehow stuck inside the little "Ignition Box" at the base of the column. Lossened the "box", then pinched the rod with pliers pulled it till the starter kicked - and got to the show on-time !!!
With the ignition cylinder remove I'm pretty sure the rod can be gripped with small vice grips/pliers and moved "manually",...... if that rod doesn't move, the box at the base of the column might be to blame.
I will indeed check the rod while I have everything torn apart!
I checked my service manual and the key lock cylinder replacement is simple once you get past the wheel, lock plate and finally the turn signal switch.......
I'll also check those tilt mechanism bolts as well........
Make sure the cable that runs from the shifter to the column isn't in a bind. Mine has done it sometimes and if the car doesn't think it's in park then it won't let you shut it off.
TEHSOCKS; I checked my plastic sleeve and it does NOT rotate!
I dropped the column and visually checked and it seems my sleeve is locked in place.
Both the ignition AND dimmer switch rods move freely and show no signs of binding.
I now believe/hope that it could very well be the key cylinder.
REDLEADER289; How would I go about checking the cable from the shifter to the column, I have removed my shifter plate and I can see the end of the cable itself but I have no idea how it runs to the column?????
So if "NAF's" statement is correct then the auto shifter cable has no effect on the key lock cylinder not being able to be switched to the off position.
Ok, yeah. I forgot that you couldn't switch it to the "off" position. I was thinking that you couldn't turn it to the position that allows you to take the key out, my bad.
Same issue here. Just tried to turn on my Camaro. Been having trouble starting (possible bad ignition switch). So I went out to turn it on. No crank. As I turned the key back to remove it, the lock cylinder would not turn back to the off position. Luckily my key is so worn that I pulled out the key and disconnected the battery. So tomorrow, I'm off to buy a new ignition switch and a new key cylinder.