I have a 91' Z28 Camaro originally with a 305 TPI Speed Density engine in it. I have swapped in a LT1 out of and 95' Impala SS.

Here's my problem I have two blk/wht wires coming from my bulkhead connector that I don't know what to do with. From looking tracing back through my TPI wiring harness and looking at wiring diagrams it seems as if they should be grounded.

My problem is kinda of crazy so I hope I don't confuse anybody. When I initially tried to start the engine I had did not mess with those two wires because I could not find any info on what to do with them. Furthermore, I was able to try and start the engine, which wouldn't crank because it has been sitting for almost 5 years. In the midst of trying to get the engine able to run I had an oil leak that I had to tighten up so I could have adequate oil pressure. However when I was finish I was not able to crank the engine for some odd reason. The security light and the brake warning light kept flashing.

Next, I decided to wiring those two wires to a sufficient ground those wires allow me to try and crank the engine but my brand new battery dies after a few cranks. So if anybody can help me with this problem I would really appreciate it.

I have had my computer reprogrammed to delete the VATS.
I have also had my wiring harness modified to make the installation easier.
I have a brand new optispark, alternator, battery, and starter.
I am getting adequate fuel and oil pressure.
The car is wired up correctly.
If I helps I'm using a 95' Impala SS wiring and computer.

Thanks in advance,
Jay

 

I would double check your main ground from the neg terminal of the battery. Had some issues with that on my car at one point.

 

Has anyone else ran into this problem?
Thanks in Advance
Jay

 

Does anyone know what 2 blk/wht wires I'm talking about?
Thanks
Jay

 

I beleive one is the ground for the starter enable relay. I had to bypass mine initially until I figured that out.

the enable relay is behind the drivers side kick panel. Bypass it and see if the car cranks.

The other is probably a ground. I think it had something ot do with the dash guages, but its been 2 yrs since I've done it and the car isn't here anymore for me to check out

 

Any progress?

 

Yep, It is now running and everything seems to be okay. I'm just having a hard time finding a upper radiator hose that fits with out bending up. But Besides that is seems okay.

Thanks for asking,
Jay

 

you should update us on what the problem was and how you corrected it, in case someone else having the same problem is searching the topic later on

 

As far as the radiator hose goes, I am using a 4th gen upper hose with no problems. You can see it in this post:https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...t1-c-pics.html I used the same hose when I had the F body accessories also.

 

I used the all of LT1 hoses except for the line tee that connects the heated throttle body return on the passenger side, the rear head line, and the radiator. Now it goes straight from the radiator to the rear head line.

 

Guys,

I used a 4th gen upper rad. hose also. However, I am also using an LT1 out of an Impala SS, which I believe has a slighty different designed water pump. So when I connect my upper hose it is bend causing it to almost be collapsed.

Thanks,
Jay

 

The only thing different on the pumps is the smaller fittings for the heater. I don't know how you are kinking the hose. Do you have any pics? Do you have the hose backwards?

 

Bingo,

The digital camera is got ran over, so I can't get any pics right now. I don't think I have it backwards but I will try and reverse it to see if it gets any better. If that does not work do you guys have any other suggestions on rad. hoses? Are those flexible ones any good?

Thanks,
Jay

 

A flexible one will work but, a regular hose looks so much better. What radiator are you using?

 

JeremyNR,

The problem I had was that my engine would continue to run after I turned the ignition to the off position. While wiring the car up I recieved some info and someone told me that the pink wire with a black stripe should be wired to constant battery power. Thats where the problem was the pink/blk wire is ignition hot and since it hooked to constant battery power it would remain hot after the ignition was turned on. To fix it I just disconnected that wire.

The early problem was fixed by removing the VATS.
During the process I also fried to batteries so that didn't help. The ultimate problem was my optispark. The basetiming mark and cam pin where not properly aligned which resulted in the car being out of time. Once I corrected that it started right up.

Jay

 

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2426999

Look at the pictures of the engine bay. Does your setup look like mine?

 

Blue,

The link is not working for me.

Thanks,
Jay

 

It should work. If not then copy the link and put it in the address bar in IE.

Are you still having coolant hose problems?

 

Blue,

I just bought one those flexible hoses from Murrays Auto for about $7.50. So far it seems to be working fine. What I like about those flexible hoses are that they have a big spring inside of them that won't allow them to collapse as quick as the regular hoses.

Thanks,
Jay
----------
Blue,

Your setup looks alot like mine. When I get a new digital camera I will post pics.

Jay

 

Can you guys please look at my new thread...

LT1 Performance Problems

Thanks,
Jay

 

I believe I used the origional 3rd gen heater hose, maybe it was the 4th gen, but it looks like it was supposed to be there from the beginning. anyone know a good way to route the WP lines especially that extra one thats supposed to go to the radiator?