https://www.superchevyperformance.co...tCode=12628771



I think this may help some of you.

 

woot! it's about damn time!!!!!

 

Still gonna need the windage tray and the pick-up as it states though. Also don't forget your dip stick and tube!

 

you can get all that for under $60 though, and you're still $40 cheaper than summit for the SAME P/N!

 

Exactly

 

Wouldn't this work?

http://www.jegs.com/i/GM-Performance...12593/10002/-1

 

no, and it's been discussed AT LENGTH why it won't work. you MUST use a pan with 98-02 fbody pan dimensions.

 

I thought everybody knew about that.

That's the pan I put on my engine. Just FYI, it uses a LS3 oil filter (example: 2010 Camaro). You'll also want to remove the windage tray and clean out metal filings from machining. They do a pretty sloppy job and you don't want that crap in your oil.

 

Where is it talked about. I would like to read up on it.

So it did fit the car?

Thanks for the heads up on the taking it apart and the oil filter.

 

Just do a search for oil pan in this section of the forum, you're bound to find numerous threads about different oil pans that won't work and why this is the only one that fits our cars.

 

i found this in 10 secs using our search function:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...erent-oil.html

 

you do not need the windage tray, that is the baffle that is talked about in the description according to their parts department. great people to deal with. they will be getting a sizeable order from me shortly on my 6.0L build.

 

The "baffle" is an entirely different part than the windage tray aka crankshaft oil deflector.

You can see what i'm talking about here (this is a baffle):
http://vorshlag.smugmug.com/gallery/...17898397_RG3eX

 

i'm well aware of the difference thank you, not looking for a pissing match...just passing along the information that i was given over the phone. i will make sure and double check with them before ordering.

 

It was an informative post, not a taunt.

It would definitely be a good idea to double check with them as I had to order my tray separate as well as the pick-up tube. The baffle came tightened down onto the pan.

 

just put my order in guys...here is what you need to make it a complete swap:

12628771 - Oil Pan

12558251 - Pickup Tube

12551581/12551577 - Dipstick & Tube

12558253 - Windage Tray

11609746 - Nuts for windage tray (Qty 9)

All for less than $270 shipped to your door. Most of the pans I've seen on tech are going for $200 used with just the pickup.

You probably won't find a better deal on GM parts from anyone.....

 

im gonna keep saying it...

use Search Tempest..

Found my LS1 oil pan kit used from a guy in FL for $75 shipped.

 

cool site(thanks for the info, i used to use craiglook.com before they shut it down), i'm more comfortable using a new pan on this build however.....

 

this would have came in handy a few months ago, but great find!

 

So what's this about "pan DOES NOT have provisions for a dipstick tube"? I just ordered the pan. Will I not be able to check oil quantity when the engine is in the car? Also, I ordered the windage tray and pickup tube. Do I need to get the nuts for the tray too? Thanks

 

the dipstick hole is in the block smart guy

 

I have had this site bookmarked for a few months now, starting to get the feeling I should buy this before they raise the prices!

Jay

 

If you already have a truck wind age tray, simply cut the front off and it will fit a fbody pan

Saves a few bucks

 

Was it always $198 for just the pan? Whew

 

Thanks. The boxes arrived yesterday. I'll open up the windage tray and post if bolts were included or not.

 

If cost matters, then modding the common, virtually free truck pans are a valid option. And modding the tube to move the screen up is also proving cheap and easy. Likewise the truck dipstick just needs shortened and re-marked. I'll give measurements on all these details in my own thread as soon as practical. But my total investment in this is a cutter wheel for my angle grinder, though a hacksaw could work if you have more time than money, plus a small plate of aluminum, and a small tube of that metallic epoxy. Heck, even if you include details like masking tape, a sharpie, a tap, a drill bit, and 4 1/4" bolts, you're still under $50.
After much measuring I'm only 5/8" at most above the Spohn mounting, and the Trans-Dapt 4536 mounts on new stock V6 rubber mounts saved me well over $ 100 over Spohn's stuff, and all stock cross-members are factory pre-drilled for the V6 rubber mounts. The rubber is captured in steel, so it should hold plenty of power.
I have at least 1/4" of clearance between my pan and my cross-member, and there's only one little place where it's that close.
Bolt-together is nice, but it'll end up at least $ 300 more than my way. That $ 300 will get you a new 216/220, 560/560, 114 cam from Summit, including shipping and handling.
Or $ 300 will get you a new pair of the cheapest headers, delivered.
So why put money in something that doesn't make the car perform measurably better?

 

I should add that I do regret not buying the oil filter before final-cutting the pan, and the feed tube. I have spares, so no disaster, but still. I went with the AC Delco PF46E / Fram 3506. As fragile as an aluminum pan may seem, the filter is far more fragile. So don't let it hang below the pan.