6.2 LSA long block kind of a low compression ls3

 

The LSA Cylinder Blocks used to be available without the Holes drilled for the Piston Oil Squirters...

That was my favorite Stock Aluminum Block, for it's slightly better metallurgy and the ability to add my own Oil Squirters.

 

Finally made it out of the garage this year. Here you can see the low profile C4 radiator installed and the main reason for this was to make room for the air intake and filter to pass over top like the newer corvettes since engine bay room is getting tight. New T/B cable installed fits great and tucked neatly.

 

I definitely want to see the details on this. Always wanted to have a C6 Z06 Halltech intake but never had the skill or gumption to do it.

 

Yes Sir thats what I was thinking to. I was going to buy a used C6 stock setup for test fitting but I want to try to make my own and see how it turns out.

Cant wait to see your auto swap QwkTrip this has been on my mind for the last few years.

 

Auto trans has been on my mind a long time too, but now that I have the trans I'm a little shocked how much work it is to change over. We'll see where that goes.

Definitely keep us posted on the forward air ducting project. I am very interested!

 

I am not familiar with this Halltech intake...

What is the deal?
Is there significant fabrication work involved... what am I missing?


I have completely moved away from all other types of Inter-Cooling...
And now ONLY build Refrigerant (Air-Conditioning) Inter-Coolers.

Nothing else compares!!!


I think about all the years that I spent removing/ deleting Air-Conditioning Systems from Cars...
To now Install them into more Cars that I can count.

Whats funny...
Is that I don't actually install a complete A.C. System (for People in the Cabin to use)...
I only install the Compressor and the Refrigerant to Water/ Coolant Chiller.

Connect it up to one of these:


Now ready to Rock and Roll!!!

 

I absolutely LOVE the T-56 way too much to give up using one.


Around the 1,200 Ft/ Lbs Mark... they will break repeatedly on slicks.
But with less power than that... almost nothing could make be give up the Six-Speed and Clutch

Excluding frequent "stop and go" Traffic, or a really fast "track only" situation...
I will always want a Manual Transmission.
I always have, and there is a very good chance that I always will!

 

To be fair though...

I will admit; that a Firm, Positive Up-Shift (and also a well timed Down-Shift) from a healthy, well built Automatic, does feel pretty damn awesome!!!

Preferably from a 4L80E or a THM200-4R...
Although the THM700-R4/ 4L60E/ 65E/ 70E/ 75E can also have a mean Shift!


I am partial to using a THM200-4R up to 700 HP or so...
(NOTE: I do build them to 1,000 - 1,200 HP, but the 4L80E is more cost effective at those power levels)
And a 4L80E up to 1,500 HP or so...

I have Built (for myself) a few THM700-R4 and 4L60E Transmissions that I did Love!

@QwkTrip Enjoy that 4L60E!!!
(If you ever break it, I will gladly help you build it for more Power!!!)

 

Halltech makes a really good ram air intake for the C6 Z06 that goes over top of radiator. Always wondered how this would fit on a 3rd gen after making some more room between hood and radiator support. You'd lose the hood latch though.

 

What clutches have you tried and which one do you like most for street car? Using GM slave or Tilton?

obeymybird, I can move this content to a new thread if you want. Seems we're always cluttering up your thread with stuff you didn't ask about!

 

My apologies, I always end up all over the place...
I really do feel badly every time...
It is just that I have nearly a Dozen heavily focused thoughts running through my mind (and another 2 Dozen lesser focused thoughts on top).

It is like having ADD but never losing focus on anything... and I mean anything!
I tend to read 3 books simultaneously while typing and listening to music; just to try and relax.

 

The first time that I had a properly working set of Hydraulics for one of my T-56s...
It was a Tick modified Tilton Set...
I have never looked back (I use the Tilton stuff on everything).

Clutch Companies...
WOW! What haven't I tried???

I would say that mostly I was using "SPEC Clutch".
A similar product to what they now have as their "Super Twin".

But I have been exclusively been using "Ram Clutches" for the last 7 or 8 years.
I started out using a Clutch System from them for My Funny Car...
From then on... Every Clutch System I buy is from "Ram Clutches".

 

Do you tend to use organic or ceramic frictions for street cars?

Reason I'm asking is because I have a Ram RTrack 10.5 with organic frictions. I don't want another one. The thing gives off smoke smell instantly in low speed traffic or any situation where I have to slip the clutch. Had to rebuild it with very little use. Now the rebuild is giving signs of issues. It always holds power, just hates to be slipped.

I can have it reconfigured with ceramic discs but been afraid to try for fear of too quick of engagement, shuddering, rough driving in traffic. Carbon fiber (Carolina Clutch) is more money than I want to spend. But something has to give, this is not working for me to do repairs so often. Floater stands are a requirement for me, I don't trust straps (friend had one explode), and there aren't many choices of street clutches with stands.

Also very very very tired of my Tick (Tilton) master cylinder adjusting rod walking on me. I've done everything short of welding the nut to the rod. It's a rare problem I'm having, other people don't suffer with that. It's amazing my transmission hasn't developed problems with all the hydraulic issues I've had over the years.

 

I have used both...
But you are talking about their "Street" Clutch Sets.
I do not really use any of those.

Mostly I use their Sintered Iron Discs.
These are from the different "Drag Racing" Clutch Sets.

 

I had a used tick slave for my first build with the ls7 clutch and would get weird pedal issues. I put in hawks slave with a monster twin disk and had zero problems or noise. New twin disk kevlar from monster in now but no street time yet but its working and pedal feels good. BTR has the best prices by far on monster clutchs that I could find.

 

On a scale of 1 - 10, how friendly is that in the McDonald's drive thru?

1 = I park and walk inside
10 = so smooth it nearly drives itself

Are you using numerically high gears so you don't have to mess much with slipping the clutch?

 

Remember my pedal sinking to the floor overnight?
That was a good game of Stump The Chumps with the Tilton engineers.

I know what I did to fix it, but nobody has ever been able to explain how that happened.

 

Damn man that's rough. If you gotta sleeve a cylinder just send the whole block to Texas speed and have them machine the block and install Darton sleeves as well, punch it out a bit and build yourself a sick motor

 

It is up to the Driver...
There is More adjustment in these Pressure Plates (than anyone knows what to do with)... between the Pre-Load and Centrifugal Apply.

 

Mine would sink to the floor after some hard driving but what really got me was when I would go out and jump in to start it and the clutch pedal would feel like a rock same feeling as when you would pump your breaks up to bleed them.

 

Those concerns are what are usually found with the OEM/ GM Hydraulics...
I seldom have issues with modified/ calibrated Tilton Hydraulics.

 

Im running the RPM (Carolina Clutch) carbon ceramic unit with OEM hydraulics. Clutch feel is great, like stock, and really drives nice. The lightened steel MMS flywheel combined with my crap gears does produce some chatter in first gear. Steeper gears will make that transition from stop to rolling smoother. However, it dead hooks and never heats up or complains.

 

Yes.

As you and Qwk have mentioned...
The mechanical advantage that Higher Ratio Gear-Sets afford, make huge difference here.

The more Low RPM Torque output that the Engine produces... of course has the same result.

 

Going to stock pile some parts and get this thing on the dyno by spring.
First on the list is a set of ID1050x injectors.

 

Still waiting on my 6th gen ZL1 heat exchanger to come and cts-v power steering pump.

Synergy lid spacer/adapter looks very nice and picked up one of there 3/4” water line splitters to feed the dual bricks. ZZP intercooler pump to keep that water flowing.

 

PLM 6th gen zl1 XL heat exchanger

 

Motionrace works valve covers still need to order a catch can from them yet.

 

Where do you plan to mount your coils?

 

Motion makes quality products. I’m using their vacuum block, stainless steam vent kit and throttle cable on my LQ4 build.

 

I bought the coil mount kit from them also so they will mount to the covers.

 

Damn rights they make quality products! I've got their Icon 102 throttle body and billet valve cover breathers with -12 fittings on my turbo build

 

I don't know if this will be of interest, but Improved Racing has just recently released a new line of catch cans.

https://www.improvedracing.com/oil-catch-cans.html

 

Wow they do look nice!

 

Yeah, Improved Racing seems to have put more thought into it than most. Many of the cans out there are absolute joke.

Mann Hummel also makes lightweight plastic cans with a drain back to oil pan, called the Provent. These are used in production vehicles with light-duty diesel engines. This is the same unit Lingenfelter sells for C5/C6 Corvette for 2x the money as you can get elsewhere. I think Lingenfelter sells the Provent 200 but there is also a 300 with more air flow. I don't know if Lingenfelter specs out a custom pressure valve or if it's just off-the-shelf. Mann has sizing guidelines by engine displacement on their website but I think it's aimed at diesel engines and I'm not sure if the rules are different for LS engines.

Those are the two units I'm considering putting on my car. I've never used a catch can on my car but I had one on my truck and it was a pure PIA in cold weather. Ripped it off after 7 years and do not miss it one bit. My truck is turbocharged with 18 psi of manifold pressure and by my experience it seemed to be the clean side oil separator that was most important. Both clean and dirty sides were plumbed to the can with check valves. I don't think the dirty side did much except make the can fill with water. After removing the catch can I put a drain in the intercooler (because the intercooler acts like a huge catch can for the clean side which in reality was the really oily / messy side).

 

My goal is simple zero oil getting into the blower. Both valve covers will run to the catch can and the valley cover stays sealed up so nothing is recycled back into the intake side.

 

I'm running a Mighty Mouse Solutions unit that works well. I universally put mine together and it is really well made and very configurable. They offer special kits for blower applications as well.

 

Lid spacer installed along with valve covers. From what the warehouse said I got the last GM ctsv power steering pump in the country. Next will be mounting the heat exchanger.

 

Looking great. Do those valve covers have baffling in them?

 

Yes best baffles I have seen.

 

Looks Great!!!


Try to run your Catch-Can Hoses from the front of the Valve-Covers...
This way most of the Oil will go towards the rear of the Engine under acceleration and drain back down.

 

Quick test fit for the catch can location and I’m liking it. I will be running -10an lines from the covers to can.

 

I VERY STRONGLY recommend going with at least -12AN Lines if you can.

You really want to have some large Hoses here...
Engines making over 12 - 15 PSIG Boost should have -16AN Hoses.

 

All the -10 stuff is on order. Remember this is just a street car 98% of the time

 

Heat exchanger and pump mocked up into place. Expansion tank finished up and ready for powder coating.

 

-16an seems like it's way overkill. I've seen thousands of stock boosted LS engines making in excess of 20+ psi and they only use -10an max -12an

 

I know Lingenfelter did use -16 with their C5 turbo package.

 

She moves some water very happy with this setup.
I booked my dyno tune for May 1st with Late Model Performance

 

Let me start off with some good before the bad crap kicks in.
QwkTrip hooked me up with a custom fuel pump harness and I couldn’t be happier. It was a true simple plug and play deal and with the addition to some new herko fuel sender parts I know seem to have a working fuel gauge after all these years.

 

So no easy way to put this but dyno tune was canceled.

Back in January I posted about going to bigger injectors and after I installed them I left something out hoping for no issues. So after the install and first startup the engine hydro locked do to the injector in #1 cylinder being stuck wide open. I pulled all injectors and sent them into ID for cleaning and came back all clean and perfect.

Lastnight was the first startup and it’s knocking very hard barely started and wouldn’t stay running. So expecting one bent rod at the least should be starting the tear down this weekend.