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LTX and LSXPutting LT1s, LS1s, and their variants into Third Gens is becoming more popular. This board is for those who are doing and have done the swaps so they can discuss all of their technical aspects including repairs, swap info, and performance upgrades.
Not much going on over the winter so far but thats about to change! Got a smoking deal on this unit which has new bearings a Eaton coupler and zero rotor damage for $1,000 just need to grab a hub and pulley combo.
It is amazing what a very small displacement Supercharger (High-Helix or Twin-Screw) can do today!
Seriously though; The LSA High-Helix Supercharger has a roughly 1.8L Displacement...
Thats is TINY compared to Superchargers of "Yester-Year"!
It is WAAAAAAY smaller than a 6-71 Supercharger!
Although the 3-Lobe Roots Design is horrible compared to the LSA Blower.
It is even smaller than a 4-71 Supercharger!
Those 142/ 144 Weiand (Single Carb Style) Superchargers are a 2-71 Size...
The LSA Supercharger is STILL SMALLER!!! ...at roughly 110 Cubic Inches (compared to 142 or 144 Cubic Inches).
If the LSA Blower used the Screw Design instead... it could potentially be even more efficient!
It should work great and give me a better all around driving car least thats the plan.
Absolutely!
They are great little Superchargers!
My 1992 Track Only Camaro has a 4.0L Spercharger (like your LSA Blower, just larger) that should have a ridiculous Torque Curve (or lack there of! should be a very High Flat Line instead)!
I have to decide on a Rotor-Set for the Blower.
I am not sure if I will go with a Screw Design from PSI or Whipple...
Or a High-Helix Design from Eaton.
Finally got this thing pulled. Going to clean up the bay some then start the 6.2 full teardown. I have a monster twin disk that’s going to be for sale with lightened flywheel with less then 5,000 miles on it if anyone is looking.
Got fresh oil in the blower today along with getting the new hub pressed on. Was stuck on which upper pulley to go with between 2.55 or 2.45 so split it and got a 2.50.
Yep the LSA engines are very hard on the rod and main bearings. The cts-v forums are full of spun bearing posts and I have new king bearings on stand by.
When I started kicking this build around in my head I knew there was going to be a few big money parts that was going to hurt the wallet but so far I got most of them bought and got a decent deal since I creep on several other forms.
Needing a 8 bolt clutch hurt since my moster twin is basically new still and a new 8 bolt goes for $1,200 and up. I scored a Mcloed RXT for $800
Used LSA supercharges go for $1,400 plus. Got mine for $1,000
Supercharger brick $1,100 for the one Im using. Used $650
Supercharger lid around a $1,000 and up but still hunting for this but im going a different direction then most for the lid
Well im past my budget and need to get this thing up and running on the cheap any help on the following parts would be helpful.
Single cooling fan 14"-16" needs to be strong enough to move air threw the new 3 core radiator.
Adjustable fuel regulator.
LS3 style injectors 850cc
Boneyard time for the fan? Maybe a single fan from a 6th gen camaro? They have one giant fan. You should be able to nab everything else off the classifieds on ls1tech.
Yea that 6th gen fan might be the ticket hopefully find one used. Just a email update from BTR on a new product siemens/deca 92lb ls3 style $470 for the set!
The Supercharger is VERY hard on the Harmonic Balancer.
The Outer-Section tends to rotate away from the Inner-Section...
Or completely come apart/ separate (lots of damage inbound).
Also sometimes the Harmonic Balancer will rotate on the Snout of the Crankshaft...
Even when One Keyway is used, failure still occurs.
Two Keyways 180-Degrees apart, is the way to go!
O! ...I almost forgot.
No Dowels or Pins!
Machine the Crankshaft Snout, and use high-quality Steel/ CrMo Keyways.
Last edited by vorteciroc; Apr 30, 2022 at 10:02 PM.
Got the heads bolted down over the weekend. Next up will be small things cam an crank sensor then motor mounts. Then clutch assembly with trans following.
Hope the spal fan is on par with the hype had to go with a 14” cause I’m using the smaller c4 corvette radiator more to come on that later.
Ran into a big road block with RXT LSA clutch thats setting me back more money and two more weeks. I need a 8 bolt flywheel so that didn't leave me much of a choice so long story short the lsa clutch wont work with the older style T56. Monster is cutting me a 8 bolt flywheel now to go along with there twin disk kevlar kit.
Last edited by obeymybird; May 23, 2022 at 01:55 PM.
With the Mcleod flywheel and clutch the overall thickness was way to much resulting in so much throwout bearing contact that the T56 wouldn't go into the bellhousing. And im not talking like 1/4 or 1/2" more like two inches lol
Ran into a issue when I went to test fit the G8 alt and PS. Big issue was with the PS bracket it just mounts the pump to low on the head which puts the pulley into the steering box. I got a cts-v bracket coming to see if this can work.
I ordered a racetronix fuel regulator and some fittings from them. Best prices
I have all of the lsa drive installed just need to put the belt on.
Its one of crazy ideas so hopefully it works out lol. Basically what your looking at is a LS9 lid on top of a lsa blower. Advantages more clearance, better cooling do to twin bricks, price dsx lid $700. Disadvantage only thing is with the smaller lid volume it will hurt peak numbers some but could be made back up with a lid spacer if room is available.
That top on the supercharger looks gooooooood. That's not stock is it?
Gosh, that thing doesn't look hardly any bigger than the LS7 MSD intake! Is there maybe hope that would fit under Firebird hood?
The ls9 lid option seemed like a no brainer cause if you have seen the Kong lid its the same lid for both blowers so I cant figure out why people are paying well over $1000 for the lsa lid.
I have a holley 2.5 bar map sensor but the holley efi software doesn't support it so didn't run to great with this. Going to order the GM lsa map and be done with.
Have you tried manually inputting the transfer function for custom sensor calibration?
Another option is the Bosch T-MAP sensors. MAP and air temp in one unit, pretty cool stuff. But you would have to input the transfer function for that too.
Yea with the holley you can set custom sensor parameters... probably someone has it already and posted for the 2.5 bar sensor. I find it odd that they don't support there own sensor. I know with some of the newest updates they have added alot of additional preset sensors calibrations and injectors etc. Hook up a vacuum pump and test at vacuum with sensor hook up and record the voltage/bar, then add a compressor and test for max pressure and voltage/bar. Plot the numbers and make it linear and your good to go.
I think that lid will clear no problem. Doesn't look taller than the NNBS intake which clears my stock hood. I think the TB area is gona be a bit tight. I run the LS9 MAP just be aware the sensor nipple is bigger than the standard LS MAP's so on the stock plastic intakes you need to drill out the MAP hole... not sure on your blower though. It also doesn't use a thick rubber grommet, basically just an o-ring.
I know with some of the newest updates they have added alot of additional preset sensors calibrations and injectors etc.
I found that too earlier this summer when I upsized from V4 to V6. They had more sensors pre-programmed and I was able to get rid of some of my custom transfer functions (GM oil pressure sensor in my case).
Small update... First with the bad the new champion radiator was DOA had a small pin hole.
New map helped but was still dying right after startup unless I would crack the throttle. So with it shutting down in a second or two made it hard to find the issue. Lastnight i leaned in hit the key and then shot a squirt of carb cleaner into the t/b and it stayed running till it burned that up. So It ended up needing 10% more fuel in the idle area to fix it up. Had zero issue holding idle below 900.
Finally got it up to temp long enough to get water into the engine and I coolant exiting from both the front and back steam ports. Just had them both loosely ran to the over flow tank to make sure it all was working correctly.
I still need a heat exchanger and water pump but not much else.
With a stock hood it would clear with tons of room. I had to only trim a small section of the trackspec vent cause they sit so far under the hood.
The new map is only $40 I can deal with that
Anyone doing this with a cable t/b will need a 60" lokar.
I did it with a lokar, not hard and did it with the stock 78mm and my 92mm Warr TB. I modified the pedal to accept the lokar end and SS washers on the firewall works perfectly.
