I`m nearing the end of the 496 build up and I`m to the point I`m really thinking about those ed quay headers, so much I called today for pricing and time...well The price isn`t bad at all but the options avaliable make me wonder which to choose. The engine is 14.1 .700 lift 270* @ .050 lift, merlin 310`s ported, dominator victor intake and 1090 carb. 430 geared with 28`s and around 3700 #`s.. anyone have any suggestions? builder said 2 1/8 straight to a 3.5 collector...the sizes avalaible are 2 1/8 2 1/4 2 3/8 and 2 1/2 and anyone one of them can be "stepped" and collectors range from 3.5-5 inches

 

There is a basic formula for primary tube sizes but it's hard to locate. Usually all you find is tube length formulas.

2-1/8 x 3-1/2" should be fine. All the specs you quoted are good for a mild performance package. With that much weight, you should be in the 10's but not the low 10's. Use the smaller primaries to help build torque.

My headers are 2-1/4" primaries with 4" collectors. I'm also running a 540 and my converter keeps the rpm over 6000 all the way down the track. 2-1/8" primaries may be better for me but I got a deal on these so I run them.

When you order the Ed Quay headers, make sure they're aware that the Merlin heads have raised exhaust ports.

 

Thanks Stephen, they did ask me what heads I was using, I`ll let em` know they are a raised port, I`m thinking they know though. In your opinion is the 2 1/8 x 3.5 header on the small side but suited to my application? I guess what I`m getting at is it going to allow me to grow in the future?...engine size, cam lift/duration, nitrous?

 

When you consider that the Hooker swap headers are 1-7/8 x 3 and they're a street header, the 2-1/8 x 3-1/2 is big. Sewer pipe exhaust is good for the track but also needs a big, high reving engine. I'd say go with that size. If you ever upgrade enough to need a larger header, you can always find a buyer for those ones. I think you'll be happy with the results from those.

The collector will be a slip on design. You can always get a 4" slip on collector to try to see if performance changes.

 

Okay cool, one other thing... ever seen an adavantages to a stepped design or no? Oh and the car will be track only from now on too.

 

hey im going to be in need of some headers for my big block project soon and im thinking about going w/ the hookers because i cant afford 1200 headers and then i still have to get a y pipe. Is it possible to get the hookers and have somebody open up the primaries to 2 1/8 and weld them? just an idea
My motor is a 468 11:1 comp. 296 adver. duration int. and ex., victor jr. intake, gm performance aluminum rectangular port heads. any suggestions

 

bump

 

I would think that the 1 7/8 headers would be fine for your combo, I`m still running them and it hasn`t choked it out yet but I gotta be gettin` close.

 

greezemonkey...are you still planning to upgrade to the ed quay headers? if/when you do, would be willing to part with the hookers? stephen? do you still have your hookers? i'm gonna be looking for a set for a reasonable price come jan/feb time frame.

 

Matt, you going to a bb on me?

 

NO........uh....i mean...uh...it's for a "friends" car

 

yeah...nice try...I guess that's ok the little motor is going to run 1 more yr. I have some upgrades planned for gears, cam, and a few other little mods. Hopefully I can get the car to run in the low 12's. I need to find a some hp somewhere. My local track is switching to NHRA and my no-box class will now be 13.00 to 7.00. Sounds like there will be a lot of dragsters running in my class. Guys are already talking about putting a quick connect in there wiring for the box and being able to run both classes. That's ok though cause the 350 will be done sometime late next year the way I am going so it should be able to run somewhere in the middle of the field.

 

Yep, still upgrading...as soon as I can afford too, I have 1 other member that wanted them once they were off....he`s got dibbs on them first, I`ll let you know if they become avaliable of course though. It could be spring though before they come off, depends on where I can get it for storage at the place I`ve kept it the last few years.
Has hanging around all those race tracks given you "cubic inch syndrome"?

 

it's given me "go-fast syndrome" lol! bbc is just a super cool way to get there!

just let me know on the headers, no hurry though!

 

mw66nova....back off my headers. hah. I called dibs 5 months ago, so I figure spring time would be a good time to do a swap on my camaro, so I'm in no rush whatsoever. March is cool by me Otherwise it's too cold to work on it anyways

 

HaHa Ah...I`m sorry..xpndbl3 did call them a while back if the other guy fell though...problem is though only guy fallin` though is me! I just have not saved enought to get the new ones yet...I hope to have the new ones ordered before the end of the year...I`ve been picking up other items like a pro fogger kit and 250 plate system, dart intake and a new 4.5 inch hood...anyone gonna be looking for a 3 inch harwood with hood pin holes in the front? I`m picking up the new hood this weekend so no worries as to when that `ll go

GO Fast syndrome... LOL Yea, I think the cubic inch syndrome comes after that one Lol !

 

greezemonkey....where are you located? I may be interested in the hood.

 

no rush like i said, anytime before march, the car will be put away until then anyways. Besides from now until then the girlfriend is coming up with tons of ideas for xmas gifts instead of the car fund

 

lower south eastern side of Michigan. The hood is not perfect, it has a small light scratch in the front and a "spider web" crack about the size of a 1/2 dollar in the front also, the underneath has a crack but it is unnoticable and in a spot that is not at all critical to operation. I was using a 70`s firebird hood spring and it caused it to crack at that spot, price will be very reasonable if you want it.

 

The headers are off and ready to go....If your ready let me know, I`d like to get`em outta here pretty quick if possible. Couple things on these is the #2 pipe has been dented quite a bit to clear the frame (when I had the stock K member) also the collector on the drivers side has some of the flange cut on the top near where the floor would be to keep some clearence, most of if not 1/2 the bolt hole is still there. Coating is still looking fair , no peeling or flaking but could use a few minutes with some aluminum polish. I have also ported the openings, I created a soft radius into the primarys, it was a big difference on the assometer!

 

hey man,
money's gonna be tight until after xmas, got a florida vacation coming up so I can't be buying anything without the other half grabbing the box while I'm at work, then i'll be in the dog house. I understand if you want to sell them asap to whoever has the cash. What were you asking for them anyways? If you want to wait until january something then that would nice as well.

 

I can understand....I just picked up new headers just before Xmas but, I was saving a while. The other member "opher" did fall through, I gave him a call yesterday and the project he was planning has been abandoned. I ended up storing my car here at my own garage this year, I decide to put my 4th gen in storage for the winter and drive the winter car 100% this year, I drove the SS last winter on the no salt or snow days. Doing This allowed me to leave the 85 here and work on it over the winter, otherwise those headers would have been sitting on the car till` spring. I could give you some time if you want. I`m sending you a PM....

 

alright pm replied to, i'll touch base with you mid january to grab them.

 

I got them unwelded mostly,.. 2 1/8 into 4 inch collectors, and an xtra set of 3.5 ers...I was able to break the tach welds to move the pipes around a bit to get them closer to where they need to be. They shipped them out inside a week and the tig welding is exceptional to say the least. The fit from ed quay was not that bad but the headers do offer some hurdles to jump in order to install them. solid motor mounts are a must, dipstick location is hindered by the # 2 tube and the starter motor no matter where I clock it hits the # 6 tube, had to dimple it. 4 inch collectors sit right on the trans tunnel frames, both sides. I will be getting them coated inside and out now that I have installed them and ran the motor, nieghbors & I love the sound !

 

well as long as the neighbors approve there's nothing to worry about

 

Your collectors are clocked wrong. You'll find the only way to position the evac tubes is off the sides. I see the retaining tabs are already welded on. You're going to have to cut them off to turn the collectors.

I also see your header flanges are all one piece. If you cut them so each tube is separate, it's easier to install the headers one tube at a time. It's like a jigsaw puzzle knowing what tube to install first and how to insert the other tubes but it is much easier to install the large tube headers that way if the engine is still in the car.

When I got my headers, they were already coated. Fitting them into the car required a lot of dimpling. You're not going to see any of the hammered coating where it's been dimpled but getting them coated after all the dimpling is done is the best. My collectors are not coated. Makes it easier to see where the heat burn stops if you're running open headers. You cut the collectors where it stops discoloring the metal.

When I ran open headers, the neighbors always wandered over when I fired the car up to check it out. Now that I have mufflers on the car, it's not as bad.

 

Actually Stephen I`m able to slide both headers right up into position with the car on jack stands ! with the collectors on ! As for the evac tubes, with the headers in place I have plenty of room for the valves and hoses, I was thinking they would need to point to the sides also, but they`ll work right on top just like that. I read your thread about fitting your quay`s and they did tell me that they suggest cutting the flanges so they are all individual, but these things go in so easy, unless it will be a concern for leaks I`m planning to leave them as is. These compared to the hookers are a tad easier to install.

About cutting the collectors, they are 12 inches now and both touch the frame at the ends. I was just reading a thread about a guy who kept "chasing" the heat mark on his collectors on the dyno. Everytime he cut them the motor made less HP/TQ. I will try to find it and post a link to it, interesting read.

I have a few neighbors that like it, some who don`t..I can understand, I try not to run it long or often.

 

Those sure look wicked! Makes my hookers look sad.

Your combo sounds very similer to mine, only I have 440 cu and a little more cam. Curious to see what you run!

 

How high do you plan on spinning this motor? sounds like youll need to swap up that 4.30 gear/28" tires....

 

I was crossing at 7,000 with the 4.30 /28`s N/A ...I made the situation worse and put 29`s on the back, ultimately it will be a nos car, the motor has rings .400 down from the crown, gapped @ 32 / 26 and the nos stick is waiting along side the fogger. I`ll be aiming for a 10.20 or so this spring on motor... I think the 4.30 with 29`s will be okay with a 250 or better hit...what do you think?

btw : old post !!

 

well, if you were coming thru the traps at 7,000 with a 28" tire on motor.... i think youd need a set of 33's to make it thru on the 250 shot. lol
i donno... i just bought a set of 3.89's for my car. it has 28's. should be able to get to 150 now. (wont happen)

 

scott i've seen 30x8 or 30x9 slicks under thirdgens with no mini tubbing, so there is always that option if you REALLY were overgeared with the shot. For my gearing I think 27" slick on motor and 29" with a power adder should work out for me and keep the same 4.11 gear

 

I have a N/A cam in it now and the advertised end of the power band is 7,400...I figure the bigger engine eats up a couple hundred rpm`s ( I think they base their rpm bands off a 454) so actually off the spray 7,000 is a bit low and now adding 29`s is only going to make it worse on motor.
I have a N.O.S. cam that has more duration (aprox 5* more on intake and 14* more on exhaust) this cam has a higher band...4,800-7,800 with a wider LSA of 114. The RPM increase from a 250 shot is what 300-400? I don`t know but it looks like it`ll work out.

 

well, i was just thinking that a 496 with a 250 shot could very well be trapping over 150mph. but it depends on the rest of the setup and car if it will do it.
also, if the cams operating range will run up to 7800 on motor, you might be quicker shifting it at 7,000 or something like that on the juice. just something else to take into account.

 

Hey man, the track is where it`s at..I`ll find out soon enough