When I installed my Stealth Ram, I had a problem with the throttle body linkage hitting the fitting on the fuel rail, found a good solution. Now I have a reason to hang out with the Power Adder guys.

Question: Would a HSR still suffer from fuel puddling on a wet nitrous kit like stock TPI?

 

One more question. Do the solenoids have to be mounted straight up (labels correct)? I have the mounted that way, was just curious.

 

I have mounted many a nitrous selenoid "up-side-down" it does not effect operation. Here is one I did at our shop. btw I like your spacer and was considering using one I have just like it, that settles it.

 

I ran into the same problem with an HSR install. I found you can also grind the brass fitting down enough to safely gain the clearance needed without making it to thin.

 

Thanks for the info.

I just hit the nitrous for the first time about 30 minutes ago, and I think my fuel pressure safety switch is cutting it off in 3rd gear around 4200 rpm. It was set to 35 psi, I turned it down to 32. What's a good safety pressure for efi?

 

Sounds like your running out of fuel, GM fuel pressure should be at around 44psi when on the pedal. Are you still using the stock pump?

 

Yeah, stock fuel pump. I have a 255 lph Holley pump sitting here, I just need to find someone to install it, because I sure as hell don't want to do it.

After turning the fuel pressure safety down it seems to run better now. I had the scanner hooked up and it was pulling 4-6 degrees of knock retard, 10 degrees peak. The O2 read ~930 mV the whole time, so I don't think I was leaning out. I zeroed out my WOT spark advance table and took 2 degrees out of the 90 kPa/3600 rpm+ area, but I haven't hit the button again yet.

I'm glad I did suspension first and got a window switch. Everyone was telling me I wouldn't be able to hook nitrous on the street. Here's a graph of the data. #1 is where I stalled up the stock convertor at the light, #2 is my typical second gear spin thanks to the shift kit, which I was shifting early. This is my first ever run on nitrous, so I have some decent knock retard, as shown by the pinkish line. The window switch is set to 3000 on/ 5000 off. When you shift early you can really feel when you come off nitrous, then it kicks back in and puts the smile back on your face.

 

Revision to last post: 12 degrees peak retard. And this is my first run on nitrous with the scanner hooked up, third run ever.

I guess when you're "On Probation" you can't edit posts.

 

Who did you **** off?

-- Joe

 

Well I wouldn't rely to heavily on your stock o2 but 930 mV don't sound to bad at all, might I suggest taking a little more timing out in the upper kPa area just to be on the safe side, 12 degrees retard is a fair bit.

 

Yeah, I know the stock O2 is useless up there, but at least it tells me "rich" instead of "lean". If all the lights went out on my O2 gauge I would've slapped that switch right off.

I pulled 7 degrees out of that area in PE mode (only time nitrous is on) so next time I hit it I'll take a look. I might try colder plugs, then a retard box if needed. I don't want to totally kill my high end when I'm not on nitrous, ya know?



anesthes - It doesn't matter. But I also can't change my sig. heh

 

You might want to look at getting one of craig's bin switcher items, then you can have a bin set for nitrous and one for normal driving.