Hi Everyone.
I have been searching for weeks looking for a forum that has some knowledge about superchargers. This forum looks like the place I need to be. In my case I am looking to put a D-1 Procharger on my Buick GSX with a 455. It currently runs low 12's. It spends 95% of its time as street car and weighs about 3800 pounds.

I recently got a 94 Z28 that was set up as a race car with the Procharger system on it. So I have the D-1 that was set up for this car. As far as I can tell the supercharger is in great shape, no play in anything. It only has a few thousand miles on it.

I realize that I will have to fabricate my own brackets since there are no off the shelf Buick components. That should not be a big deal.

My first problem is the orientation of the air outlet of the superchager. As it is if I set it up with the gearbox set up vertical the air outlet is pointed down. I would like to have the air outlet pointed toward the drives side of the car. It looks like I should be able to rotate the turbine on the gearbox. The question is how is this done and what tricks do I need to know.

As I get into the project I will have a ton of Chevy 350 race/blower parts to get rid of.

Appreciate any info or ideas from those who have done this kind of project.

 

just make sure the belt spins the supercharger pulley the same way it did on the camaro. then to move the outlet basically the allen head screws on the supercharger, there should be like 4 or 6 or something, you loosen then and turn the outlet side to wherever youd like. make sure the D1 will flow enough for that motor.

 

Direction will be the same. I looked at the allen bolts and thought that should allow me to rotate the blower. Do not know if there are gaskets or o-rings behind it to be concerned about.

I am not being greedy here on the power. I expect to run 5 to 8 psi max. On my motor that should be no more than 200hp. That would put me at 650 to 700 hp with 700 ft pounds of torque. Then I can go hunt new Shelby's for fun.

 

i was told from when i bought mine you can just loosen them and turn it no need for them to come out i dont know whats behind it but you can turn it. sounds like its going to be a fun project.

 

This might not apply, but I know the self contained units have to be mounted with the label on the gearbox facing up for proper lubrication. I didn't spin mine all that far, but I believe you can point the outlet at any angle you want. Just take all the bolts out, rotate, and secure again. Also, I think Procharger has had at least a couple different bracket designes because they need to be extremely rigid to work right.

 

Fast and Vipershark, first off thanks for the reply's. In a steep learning curve right now.

I believe on the D-1 that you need to have the gearbox somewhat vertical. There are oil drain holes that are basically gravity drain as far as I can tell. I wish I could find some documentation on this. I will be getting a new aluminium girdled oil pan that will be real easy to weld a bung in for the oil drain.

I expected that pully alignment and regidity will be important. I have 12 rib pullies and the ATI tension device as well as the main bracket to bolt to a Chevy. I will build my mock ups with plywood and then send it off to a shop that builds prototypes for the auto industry.

Any thought or ideas are appreciated.

 

So you have the one that gets oil from the motor. You could figure out the smallest pulley you can run on that too. Max RPM of that blower is 65000 and the internal step up is 4.44:1. So, max engine rpm x (crank pulley diameter / blower pulley diameter) x 4.44 = blower speed. I'm running the smallest pulley I can for my motor, which is 4" blower, something like 7.7" crank, and 4.10 internal gear to make the 7800 engine rpm into about 62000rpm on the blower.

I'm guessing you're probably going to need a custom belt length too. I bought one from Procharger once and it was like $100, so I came up with an alternative. I've been running two 6 rib belts you could get for a total of $40-$60. The tensioner is poorly designed if you ask me because in order to put proper tension on the belt it has to be just small enough that you basically have to put the belt on before the blower is mounted. Then after time and the belt streching, it can come off with the blower still mounted.

 

Good info. Since I have to do a custom fab setup I may add another idle wheel than I can add a little more tension with. I do have a brand new belt (I got all sorts of stuff with this car) just going to have to sort it out. Too bad I cannot use the intercooler setup. It is the split ATI one that mounts on each side of the radiator.

 

You don't need excess tension on the belts, just significant belt wrap (>300°) on the driven shive. The D1 blower needs to be mounted such that the three large plugs are at the bottom, and then select either A, B, or C as the oil return to the oil pan.

The volute can be rotated by loosening the 8 allen head screws and rotating the volute on the tranny housing. There is no o-ring, but it is a pretty tight machine fit. Trhe volute can be mounted in any direction on the tranny unit.

The D1 will flow 1400CFM and should be able to help your 455 breathe. Good luck with your set-up.
Aaron

 

Thanks for the name of the "volute." When I am on the V8Buick site I can throw that around like I'm the expert now Looks like the setup should not be that hard. I think I will add a slot for another idler just in case its needed. The setup should look something like the bottom drawing.

 

Ok got it to load. My setup should look like the bottom drawing when done. I would make the bottom pully manually adjustable.