Alright guys started tearing down the engine, my cousin talked me into swapping everything over to the 305 block posted above. Upper intake is off and no oil or any metal fragments of any kind in the intake system, so I am pretty confident the engine that is currently in there is fine, but he is right though, just in case it's hurt it a little, as a little is enough. I'm actually intrigued now to pull the heads. Anyways, this also gives me a good excuse to post up the modifications I made to the whole system; heads, TPI, etc, because the pictures from my very first thread are long gone. Have no idea what photobucket did with them, but they are not there. Working on the lower intake now, then the heads. Did not expect to devote my freaking night to this, was actually looking forward to a night out at the movies, but this is a freaking third gen lol, but I digress. Pics up soon...

 

Alright, runners were rinsed and the gasket residue removed. For those that remember the original premise of the build, it was essentially running a number using mostly factory parts, albeit modified for better flow. These are the factory TPI runners, the entire TPI system was siamesed, and although siamesing the runners doesn't make that much of a difference in terms of sharing the air, it was done for velocity. Those who know what a stock runner looks like will visually see the work that was done. I'm actually glad I am doing all this, not to mention that Black paint had to go, wanna polish them up. Upper intake is next up...

 

Upper plenum just cleaned up and gasket residue removed. Fully siamesed, all gaskets are cut in the very same fashion. Maybe polish this one up too, doesn't take too long. Again, those familiar with the system will see the amount of work done. Lower intake is up next...

 

It's all good man! I just wish I had video of how the car performs to better share the results of all those long nights in the garage.

 

Just make sure when Steve gets his done again that you school him a little out on the street lol...

 

Alright, lower intake cleaned up and the gasket residue was removed. Fully siamesed, and ported to the max. The ports up top were siamesed all the way in, halfway through. Again though, those who know what these intakes look like stock will see all the work that was done. Polishing these intakes are a pain in the @ss, so I might just paint it and call it a day. Think I am going to have the injectors cleaned while they're out. Just so you guys know, I too feel the temptation of stuffing something bigger in there, a forged 383 would be perfect for what I want. But I digress, on with the replacement 305. Cylinder heads up next...

 

how did you port the runners? extruding?

 

I did about three to four inches into the runners by hand up and down then smoothed it all out. I didn't want to have them extrude honed because there isn't much meat in the stockers, was honestly just focusing on the orifice area by the flanges, wanted a smooth and fast entrance and then departure...

Cylinder heads are off, actually fought me a little, but that is because I drilled and tapped coolant ports in the back of the heads on their side. was wrestling the coolant hoses off, was doing an incredible impression of Chevy Chase getting caught up in a garden hose lol. Anyways, I drove this engine freaking hard, 12-psi many nights at higher than conservative timing; pushrods are all good, lifters are all good, rocker arms are all good, oil is spotless, and under the valve covers looks brand new. I credit the amount of lift in the cam I went with, or the lack thereof. Lots of duration on the other hand. Pics of the heads up next, engine paint from the last time did not hold out too good with them...

 

I used to have a set that were cut open and welded, so rather than being 4 tubes they were 2 large ovals. Probably flowed a bit more than stock.

-- Joe

 

I thought about doing that Joe, but the beauty of these resides in the lower intake. Each cylinder essentially pulls in air from two runners. I first ran this cam with a stock TPI system, but once I siamesed everything that way that I did, what a freaking difference. She really pulls in the air. Was going to order a custom cam with the ole 4/7 swap, but Lunati recommended that I don't even bother, so I went with one of their special grinds...

 

Alright, we should rename Cometic MLS gaskets the "everlasting gobstopper" lol. This will be the fourth time I torque these puppies down, and they look the same when I first opened the package. Need to remove all of that old copper seal first, then spray a nice new coat. But yes, I am reusing these bad boys again...

 

Alright, the cylinder heads. The only reason why I even bothered with a set of 416's is because I was inspired by Donnie over on Turbo Buick who ran mid 8's with a smaller valve than the 1.84" intake valve found in these, mind you with two less cylinders. Running 8's is irrelevant though, what it told me was that they could be made to flow. So the porting began, and they are ported to the max. Still need to clean them up on the combustion chamber side, you can't see anything so I didn't take a picture there yet, but once I pull the valves and clean everything up, I will show you the work done to the chambers and the bowls, they flow more than you realize...

Also showing the coolant port that was drilled and tapped in the back, both heads have them, they run straight to the heater core, and you can't even see the lines. Did this to avoid the downpipe and to clean up the engine bay, heater works fine this way. I also welded the EGR port shut on the cylinder heads, welded steel not aluminum fill. Exhaust ports were opened substantially, but didn't go overkill on them, not needed...

 

Gonna try and get as much as I can get done today. The old shortblock is still in the car, I'm going to pull it out with the converter still in tact, too tired to unbolt it from the flexplate, not to mention I am using another converter and flywheel for this one anyway. Drop cloth and pan is already down for the tranny fluid. It's going to take some time to smooth down the turbo header welds. Not going to coat them though, just going to spray them with high temp paint. Turbo rebuild kit should be here tomorrow...

Anyone wanna take a stab at static compression...?

Bore: 3.776 (.030")
Stroke: 3.48
MLS Thickness: 0.051"
CC Volume: 58cc

I don't recall the exact deck height and piston volume on a stock 305, but if I had to guess the final compression ratio on memory, it should be somewhere around 8.9:1...

 

Makes you wanna build a 305 doesn't it lol...

Cometics cleaned, sprayed and ready to go. One cylinder head on and torqued to spec, but will be re-torqued after running the engine and getting some heat into it. Don't worry, heads will re-sprayed with aluminum before going in, she'll look real purty. Thinking about ordering a new cam from Lunati, current one is very big. Something in the 224/228 range maybe, but with the same lift though. Also going to throw on an old Edelbrock double roller timing chain set I had lying around taking up space...

 

So is this still a 9 second build or ??

-- Joe

 

Going for nine seconds or 135-mph trap, which ever comes first. If I get the trap I'll be happy and I won't push it as hard as I may need to. Either will require between 15 and 20-psi of boost pressure, because I know what the engine makes naturally aspirated, although this 305 is really a 310. The nine second 1/4 will need a strong 60 foot...

 

What does the engine make naturally aspirated?

-- Joe

 

Other engine made about 300 horsepower naturally aspirated, this one slightly more with the bore increase...

 

Hrmm.. That's impressive.

Do you have complete specs and flow numbers? I'd like to run them through EA Pro.

The engine in my '79 Stingray makes around 350hp, but it's got camel hump heads, very high compression, healthy cam, etc.

-- Joe

 

Impressive? You think? Three hundred horsepower naturally aspirated is dismal to me lol. My stock C4 made about that much. Seriously though, my numbers are based from my datalogs; wideband, duty cycle and EBL 1/4 mile analysis. I've been trying to give myself a good reason to take it to the dyno on engine alone just to underline what I was being told by the data, so maybe I will do just that for clarification. But yes, engine breaths very well, intake and heads are ported extremely well, and the cam is in the low to mid 230 range on the duration side. Roller rockers with a tad increase in lift (1.52 ratio)...

 

It's impressive, considering a stock 9:1 305 with 416 heads makes 200hp, give or take. We're talking 184cfm flow numbers.

The roller motors make a little more, mainly because the ramps can be faster in the cam. In marine applications a lot of 305s are used. a "cammed" marine 305 with a high flow dual plane intake and carb only makes around 240hp. I'd love to get 300hp out of one. In fact, the 5.7 in one of my boats only makes 260hp.

The fact that you are able to get 300hp out of it is quite impressive.

The best 416 head I've seen (ported) flowed around 220cfm, which isn't terrible, and almost as much as the world s/r heads that were popular years back.

It would be interesting to see what your combo flows, makes for power, etc.

-- Joe

 

I feel the cam is way to big for what you are doing. Turbo doesnt need that much duration, and you just bleed off usable power. It will short track slow and doubt the tpi and heads can support the rpm the cam could be used

 

I met somebody over from Lunati years back, that is why I have always run and preferred their cams. Years back they did a 305 build similar to mine, they worked a set of 416 heads, but I will bet money mine flow way more than theirs. My bowls are completely hogged out and smoothed, guide boss was removed entirely. Only difference with theirs was they installed 1.94" intake valves, but ran a much smaller camshaft. Their final numbers were 345 horsepower for the 305, but this was with over 10.1:0 compression. I'm about 45 horsepower less with a point drop in compression, but more cam...

I might have to get a new cam anyway Orr, when I pulled the cam from the other 305, although my eyes might have been playing tricks on me last night (or I was just exhausted), some of the lobes look wiped. Couldn't tell last night, the fumes and red bull were getting the better of me, will know today for sure though...

 

Heads are torqued at 70 foot pounds at the moment, going to wait for the final 85 foot pounds when the engine is in the engine bay. Also going to wait to put the intake on because it is easier to get to the upper four bell housing bolts with the TPI system off. Waiting for the results on the cam, although now that I am looking at it again I think it was my eyes last night playing tricks on me, it looks fine. Heads are all purty now...

 

Forced to take a break fella's, gotta look away from the engine this weekend lol.

It's all good though, I had to order a replacement set of lifters from Lunati anyway because four of the ones that I pulled looked like they were collapsing. I also ordered another oil pump, went with a name brand this time. Planning on installing it when the engine is up in the air on the hoist, only calls for 65 foot pounds on the oil pump bolt, so the engine won't be swinging around while dangling that bad lol...

Also gave the heads their final torque of 85 foot pounds, didn't want to wait to put it into the engine bay just in case I forget to. Other than that I stopped wrenching yesterday, and will update the thread once everything gets here sometime next week...

 

Alright, couldn't leave well enough alone. Went at it a little bit today, oil pressure sensor swapped over, knock sensor swapped over, camshaft installed, and timing pointer arrow set to 10* BTDC. Waiting for the paint on the waterpump to dry, then I'll install that plus the balancer in a little bit. Running a Pro-Street balancer, not the stocker. I want to have this engine ready to fire the day I install it, just waiting on the oil pump and lifters now...

 

Okie doke, front end is done. Nothing left to do but wait for the pushrods and oil pump now for sure. On a side note, that turbo rebuild kit was for the wrong damn size. Confirmed countless times with the seller before purchasing, but sure enough what I received was the wrong one. The kit is for a much thinner shaft...

 

Can you guys tell the difference lol...

 

Was curious, so I took apart one of the five (not four, there was one more) lifters that were collapsing. Removed the retaining clip, pulled the piston, and filled it with some mystery oil and let it sit over night. Lower spring popped right back into place (see middle lifter in picture). Just did the other four a few minutes ago.

Why you ask? These lifters are fairly new, they are from Competition Cams. Sending back the Lunati's that I ordered, not going to waste a hundred bucks on them when these were just sticking. Was going to send back the oil pump too, but decided to keep it. Once these other four pop back up I will set valve lash then seal it all up...

 

Street,
i was wondering if i could get that part number off your serp belt?

 

Of course you can...

 

You're the man! Thank you

 

You're welcome bro...

 

Hey Dave, still not ruling out twins. Lots of room on the passenger side where I cut the bracket for the serpentine setup. Would only take a little more welding and measuring, but it would come out and look pretty damn sweet...

 

Okay, done fighting with the last two lifters. Out of the four left, two more popped back into place, but the last remaining two were fighting til the end. Took them all the way apart this time, down to the ball bearing and spring, and cleaned them thoroughly. Put them back together, and rather than fight me trying to push them down with the pushrod then never come back up, now they were going down much easier, but not coming up. Gave them some help at first by tapping them from behind with a rubber mallet and they both popped up, then finally didn't need the mallet, I would press them down with my finger then shake them in my hand and they would pop back up. Wasn't going to continue any further, figured they would loosen up once the engine started and oil pressure began, so in they went...

Anyway, valves are set. Waiting on my hoist that I lent to my cousin, once the engine's in the air, oil pump goes in, oil pan with one piece gasket goes on, oil filter goes on then starter goes on. Then in she goes, finally. Intake is staying off, need those upper cylinder head threads to lift the engine with, but once in the engine bay, will install the Tuned Port Injection system then prime the engine by driving the oil pump with a drill and driver...

 

Alright guys, this will be the last pic of the engine out of the car. Oil pump is going in today, and the engine is going in the car either tonight or tomorrow morning. I glued and bolted the intake down and pulled the accessories w/brackets, was more comfortable lifting the engine from the side bolts of the cylinder heads. I never glue the upper plenum and runner gaskets, mainly because of frequent injector changes. For those who may be considering running 416's like I did, be sure to drill and tap for the serpentine bracket on the passenger side. You'll hit a coolant passage, thus the reason for the teflon sealant, but it holds no problem so don't worry. I am definitely going to dyno the engine naturally aspirated first after I tune her on the street with the EBL-P4, we'll see what this boat anchor can really do...

 

Horrible day for this, but its the only day I could spare. Starting raining the moment I pulled the engine out of the garage, figures, as it was sunny all freaking week long. Anyway, engine is in, just gotta button everything up before I get her started...

 

Just a small update. The runners are taking the longest to do, as stripping the existing paint has been quite the chore so far. Nothing is working, and I don't have the patience for paint removal. From what I can see there are four coats of paint on them, so I'm just going to sand them smooth and paint them again. Not going to be that **** about it. Also, Narrow Band broke installing the headers (I run one in conjunction with a Wideband for accuracy), IAT is missing in action, and I needed upper plenum gaskets. Everything is already ordered, including a new alternator because the bearings were starting to go on the current one. All that is left after that are the fluids, I need all three. Unbeknownst to me until it was too late, the damn trans tube grommet lifted on me and I lost a lot of tranny fluid. Balancer is set to 10* BTDC, and I am doing the distributor, plugs and wires as I write this. Bottom line is she should be up and running shortly. Remember, gonna dial it in naturally aspirated first as well as see what the 305 can do on motor...

Wire harness all tucked in nicely...

 

Alright, alright, alright...

STP conventional oil, primer tool, Bosch oil filter, two replacement plugs, and plenum gasket set. Disregard the distributor, although I did replace the stock small cap distributor with a large cap unit. Will switch to full Mobil 1 synthetic and K&N oil filter after she is all dialed in with the EBL-P4. Don't forget, I am priming the engine because of the cam bearings I installed, not because of the rod bearings I put in. Gonna crank the engine over with the starter in a few minutes just to hear how she sounds...

 

Alright, already knew this would happen in advance. The two lifters are still sticking, you can hear them in the video, air is locked/trapped during the exhaust stroke. They "should" free up with adequate oil pressure, so here is the question, do I continue with original plan and just start the engine and wait for them to free up, or change them now. I'm confident they will free up, so I will give them a chance. Getting close to running peeps...

 

Make sure you leave those valves loose.

-- Joe

 

Oh yes, when I installed them, I brought them to TDC on the number one cylinder, then I adjusted valve lash by tightening the rocker until the pushrod barely touched the rocker, while closely watching the lifter making sure it didn't go down, then going half a turn more. I just pulled the valve cover about fifteen minutes ago and both rockers are loose, so it should be good, in fact it might need a little more tightening when they free up...

Right now I just siamesed the plenum gaskets to match the port work. Gotta go back to Auto Zone, they forgot to give me my freaking IAT sensor. Plenum will be on soon though. Getting anxious, want this thing running already...

 

Today will more than likely be the last nice day of this year, as it's supposed to hit 75 degrees today, so waking up in mid October to heavy fog with everything soaken wet was no surprise. Anyway, this is where I left off last night... gonna bang the rest out today. The throttle body is something I didn't mention yet, mainly because it is just the stocker. Don't need anything larger than stock for what I am doing.

Will update the thread as the day progresses...

 

i doubt loosening the rockers will help, since you would have to have them loose enough to pull the pushrod out pretty much. otherwise, the cam lobe is still big enough to push against the spring. which will depress the lifter plunger. i dont know that i would worry about it. i prefer to have everything adjusted on the engine stand before putting it in the car.

 

For the love of all things racecar, change the lifters. They arent that expensive. Gm ls replacements 135$ if its a hyd roller

 

It's almost impossible to adjust valves properly though on the stand unless you are using a wheel and make sure you are at each IVC and EVC. Compound that with nasty valve springs and you might end up with valves way tight. So I usually get 'em close on the stand, then do a running adjustment. Maybe it's wrong, but I've been doing it this way since I was a kid.

-- Joe

 

If you do intake closing exhaust opening its really easy to determine when lifter is on base circle and adjust the preload as needed.
Never did it running because some rocker types make that difficult or impossible.

 

I've never run into a problem, but I'm sure it's possible. In the 90s and 2000s most of the engines were stamped rockers. We probably did maybe 3-4 per week when we were busy.

The last couple years it was like. 1 a month. God I lost sooo much money in that business. If only I had a time machine.

-- Joe

 

i have done about a dozen engines on the stand. the last running adjustment i did was on my first car. you stand a much much better chance of getting them right on the stand. plus, no oil spatter everywhere.
actually, its pretty dang easy to adjust them properly on a stand. i never had an issue with this?

i have adjusted them non-running in the car countless times.

 

On solids perhaps, but on hydraulic I've always found the lifter pumps up a bit and the valves end up tight. Also different lifters react differently.

When my howards bleed down, you can almost move the pushrod up and down. You wouldn't notice this but say you shut the motor off, then you rotate the motor by hand sometime later. A valve that was open and is now closed will have a ton more lash.

So, over the years I just find it easier to do a running adjustment, and then the preload is a 1/4 or 1/2 turn depending on thread size and pitch of the stud.

-- Joe