I bought a 4 vane Moroso vac pump(22642)
I am going to up the shot of spray this coming up season, and the vac pump helps with less leaks in the engine, and easier to read plugs.

Going to use a 10an line off of each valve cover to a single 12an line going to the pump, then a line going to the catch can

Ideally, I'd like to put it on the lower passenger side of my front motor plate.

Anyone have any pics of their vac pump set-ups?

 

I don't really use Moroso Vac. Pumps anymore.
I prefer the GZ MotorSports Products better.

A lot of what I set up, would look similar to this:



Obviously that has a Gen-I SBC.
That Car (not mine!) uses a GZ Mot. Pump with -10AN Hoses and single breather style Can.

 

Also Electric Vacuum Pumps (OEM Smog Pumps) have become very popular, as they are plentiful and relatively inexpensive.

These two GM Parts have been very popular and work well enough:
-ACDelco #12568324, (one of the newest Designs, and better performing) below:


Uses a Delphi sealed GT 280 Series, 2-Way Electrical Connector (Pigtail also available) and is not a High-Amperage Pump.

-ACDelco #12572176 (slightly older Design, and not as well performed) below:




Uses a Delphi sealed Metri-Pack 280 Series, 2-Way Electrical Connector (Pigtail also available) and is not a High-Amperage Pump.

Both Pumps are available from Summit-Racing...
Both Pigtails are available from GM or RockAuto.

 

I've read that those electric pumps just can't pull enough vac compared to a belt driven

 

Correct, non-electric Pumps out-perform electric Pumps.

 

Will the small electric pump pulls enough vacuum to keep the brake booster working with large cam like a 240/250 on a 110 LSA in a 383?

How about with a small vacuum tank?

Thank you.

 

I'm thinking about one of those electric vac pumps to a breather/vented can to help with crankcase pressure especially during nitrous passes or WOT street driving. I do not want something belt driven, mostly for cosmetic reasons. Therefore I am considering the electric style, and I can hide it and the breather canister out of sight. The only visible component would be the hose going to the valve cover. My crankcase pressure, coupled with a stubborn oil pressure check-vavle on the oil pump has caused an oil leak at the back of the engine which I will be fixing this winter, but I don't want this to be a repeated/common occurrence, so I think a vac pump that turns on at a certain TPS or input trigger would be a nice solution. Street car stuff.

Let us know how you proceed as you go along.

 

 

I've been thinking of doing the same for my convertible. I'd like to lose the vac connections to the intake and run an independent vac system for the headlamps, pcv, etc.

-- Joe

 

A vac pump set up would be a very expensive way to fix your problem.

A new pump like mine is over $800, then hoses, hose fittings, pulleys and a mandrel run off the crank.

I did mine to help with leaks, due to high compression, and help the nitrous tune ups and plug reading.
I'm hoping this gains me about 15 crank hp. Although that not the biggest reason to do this.