So I have an 89 Camaro v6 2.8l which was pasted down to me hasn't ran for a couple months. Tried to start is didn't start, so here's what I've done to the car so far changed the distributor, new spark plugs, new fuel filter and pump and bypassed the vats. So it cranks now but still no start, looked into it more and found out that the fuel injectors don't have a pulse. Need help.

 

How did you bypass the vats ?
One quick and dirty way to tell if it’s a passkey issue is pull the prom and see if it starts in limp home mode.
If you have a tach is it moving during cranking ?

 

I used a resistor that was the same resistance as the key. And the tach on the rpms?

 

That’s not a real bypass, you can have a prom burned or check the blue wire at the ecm I forget the PIN number at the ecm I believe you have a 1227302 ecm. There is a dark blue wire at the ecm it should have 2.5-5v key on if the passkey is working correctly.
Post 16 has the pinout for the 302 ecm. Vats is not shown so you would need to look for a blue wire in a cavity not listed.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...n-vehicle.html

 

But I thought the security light would flash if you didn't bypass it right?

 

I don’t know if that’s a true statement or not.

 

would you still be able to crank the car if you don't bypass the vats

 

The starter enable relay can still work and the passkey module not give out a hz signal to the ecm. You might want to try my two suggestions to rule out the vats.

 

What were those two again?

 

remove the prom from the ecm. If it fires up you know its a vats issue.
Test 2 look at the schematic on the link in post #4. look for a dark blue wire at the ecm. It will be in a cavity not listed on the schematic pinout. measure the voltage with the key on . if you see 2.5-5v to the ecm than vats is not the issue. It looks like there is only one wire for the tps at c12 & c13.

 

Okay thanks

 

no problem hope that help.

 

So I checked the dark blue wires on the ecm and I got no voltage from it. Not sure what to do next, but I heard about the prom chip that they put in the ecm that disables the VATS would you know where I could get one of those?

 

I can program out the vats for you , send me a personal message.
Btw is the car automatic or manual transmission ?
Out of curiosity what pin is the vats signal on ?
To just verify your findings you can pull the prom and it should run but horribly.

 

Btw there is this device to that can send the vats signal to the ecm.
http://www.bakerelectronix.com/products_vats/

 

Hers a link to what a prom looks like
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/dfi-...om-calpak.html
It’s the larger of the two chips in your ecm. The smaller chip stays in place and is called a calpak .
If you pull the prom look at the notch in its holder. This indicates the correction it goes into the ecm. The prom can only go in one way. You will notice the carrier has lager on it and they are two different sizes.

 

Hey just want to tell you the I pull the prom from the ecm and still no start. Not sure what to do now.

 

With the prom out do you have injector pulse ?
Have you tried ohming the injectors ?
A low resistance injector can shut off all injector pulse.

 

Yes no pulse with the prom out and I did check ohms it was 3.8 I think.

 

They should be in the 15.5-16.5 range. Try unplugging them all and see if you get injector pulse. If you do contact southbay fuel injectors for a good deal on injectors.
https://www.southbayfuelinjectors.co...s-gm-1985-1992

 

Would each injector be 15.5 or is that for all six injectors.

 

Each injector , you can contact southbay08 to reconfirm.

 

okay I'll check that out and get back to you thanks.

 

Rechecked injectors and all read above 15.5 except for one and that one reads 4.8. What does that mean.

 

It means you have one bad injector, did you unplug them all and see if you have injector pulse with a noid light ?

 

Ya and still not pulse.

 

Power to the injector wires ?

 

How would I check that? And how would I check if I'm getting power to the computer?

 

With a test light or bolt ohm meter on volts dc and the key on see if the injector plug has power.
Check the fuse next to the battery to see if it has blown. It controls the fuel pump and ecm.
To see if the ecm is powered up you can check accessory power at pin a4 and bat power at b1 & c16 at the ecm.
If the check engine light comes on with the key on it should be powered up.

 

 

I'm just checked and I'm getting power to the injectors, and I tested pins a4, b1, and c16 with a test light and it lit up. And the fuse near the battery in fine.

 

So now it’s down to bad icm in the distributor, or bad ecm. Or issue with the purple/white wire from the icm to pin b5. You would have to check continuity on the wire.
I think the vats would be bypassed and injector would fire with the prom out.

 

I replaced the whole distributor cap and all. Also I checked the continuity of the purple/white wire and its good.

 

Use your prom and give this a try cheap enough
https://m.ebay.com/itm/1986-GM-Midsi...pe!81223!US!-1

 

Okay I will thanks

 

This is alittle but more but the hnm prom is for a 2.8l manual transmission.
It would not have vats enabled in the programming
https://m.ebay.com/itm/89-92-CAMARO-...0AAOSw8A1aaQsh

 

Is your fuel pump turning on after you start cranking? Maybe a wiring gremlin between the dizzy/ICM and ECM?

 

The fuel pump is turning on after cranking. And would that ecm still work even if the vats enabler isn't programmed in?

 

The vats just cuts injector pulse not power to the fuel pump.

 

So that means it could be the ecm or the vats

 

By removing the prom and trying to start it eliminated the vats. That leaves it down to possibly the ecm being faulty.

 

What about the vats starter relay, would that have anything to do with it?

 

The starter enable relay has nothing to do with why you don’t have injector pulse.

 

Any progress?