Does anyone have pictures of the POINTS where the bar makes contact with the car? I have a competition engineering 10 point roll cage. If you could post pics of where ANY or ALL the points meet the car, that would be GREAT. If there is directions/book online that would be great too!

James

 

look at nhra rule book, not so much mounting location but rather where the main loop is and the angle it sits at.

 

the points are all at the bottom.....a 10 point cage has

2 main hoop points
2 rear supports
2 diagonal supports (on the trans tunnel inside the main hoop)
2 door bars
2 front bars that extend from the hoop across the roofline, and down in the fron

 

what angle do the two that go into the tranny tunnel sit at?

 

Try searching the body and interior forum. Theres a bunch of pictures on it. Most of them are of 8 points but it's exactly the same idea except for halo and connecting bars.

 

I am almost positive that they will sit flush with the floor on the unibody frame.

Steven 87 Iroc would know for sure. He is a moderator on the racing boards..

 

Here's a couple pics from when I first put the cage in, unless you have a different rear suspension meaning ladder bars or 4 link the 2 bars that go to the tranny tunnel are just there for looks-they are supposed to tie into the bar that would go from one side of the car to the other, that way, the front bar all the suspension stuff hooks to is connected by the hoop and the center bars that 45 down to it off the bar in the middle of the hoop. So unless you have that suspension set-up you can discard the little bars as they will really serve no purpose what so ever.

 

back

 

then since you have the bars that come around the ceiling of the car you want the bars in the front (by the winsheild pillars) that'll hold up the front of the halo to be directly connected to the spot the door bars are welded to up front-thus making the wrap around cage.

 

the competition engineering cage i did has pre-bent door bars that are made to clear the arm rests....

 

I have the competition engineering 10 poitn cage.....I am not sure if i want to paint it black

 

Nice roll bars guys. I started on trying to get my plates to sit level... I think I'm going to put my S&W main hoop where the rear seats use to sit. I might crack my head of the hoop if I don't. (6'5 and I sit with the seat all the way back.)

 

if you want it to be legal be very careful where you position that hoop....if they dont like it wont pass tech.

 

I've decided to go with a 8 point cage in my car to stiffen up the chassis. I have t tops and a 406(see sig). How well does the bars clear the arm rests? Also how much cutting/fab work did you have to do to put it in there. Also, I know this has been disscused before, and I am using the SEARCH button as we speak, is it worth it to connect the hoop to the SFC's?
Thanks guys

 

Mine was just finished today. There's not too much fabbing. Measure and cut the main hoop to proper height. Hammer out the plates for it. Tack weld the plates in. The crossmember brace from S&W came already prenotched and lengthed perfectly. All you have to do is get it on the hoop right (no more than 4 inchs below shoulders). We MIG'd that onto the main hoop then put the main hoop in and MIG'd the hoop onto the plates. We then angle cut at the bottom of transmission brace bars and tacked those in (top had to be grind out a little be from there fishmouth). Then my rear braces had to be cut and angled at bottom. I then took the regular sidebars and had the welder cut them and weld them on the rear braces. He did that all on the bench then took it and weld it on the main hoop. We just put the plates down since the gas tank was right under neath. I'll finish the welding on them once tank is removed. There MIG'd on the braces so no problem with them sliding. The clearance bars had to be shortened at bottom end and angle cut at both ends because I was so tall (6'5") the bars weren't angle cut right for me. MIG'd plates and bars in and then sawzalled them back out and drilled them to put the swing out in. We used a drill press to drill them out for the hollow pin inserts, then mig'd the inserts in. We then notched the ends and ground a little off each back side. We put the tabs on the bars and bolted the swing outs to the bars. I still have to redo the pin holes a little since the pins don't fit right. Then we finished all the welding. That was pretty much it.

I installed the clearance bars with the bend up and inward since that was the only way I would have it cross at the midpoint of my elbow and shoulder. I still have 1/2 to 1 inch clearance between bars and arm rests. My cup holders no longer fit but I'm going to notch them out and put them back in.

 

wow thats alot of work

 

Yeah, but it should be well worth it in the end. It only cost me 300 bucks for the welding and he helped me fit the bars (I did main hoop before I went and all minor hammering). He also custom made my x brace out of regular straight side bars and gave me 2 more plates for back braces since I used the plates for the transmission braces which I cut before I went to the shop. All in all 300 bucks was well worth the work that I had done and allt the custom fabbing he did.

 

Dude, don't be scared to weld over your tank. I will say this be dang sure to stitch weld in baby incriments in this area, that metal wanted to droop on me when I was putting them in. It's a;; got covered by carpet, but if it droops too much then you'll have a huge void between the plate and the cars metal above the tank.

 

nah, I'm doing a carb 383 eventually so I figured why take a chance when I have to pull the pump out anyways and put a carb in line pump in... I'll finish the welding then.